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Forums > General Discussion   Shooting the breeze...

Rust advice from the Seabreeze brains trust please

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Created by GavGav > 9 months ago, 29 Mar 2013
GavGav
VIC, 193 posts
29 Mar 2013 9:28PM
Thumbs Up

Does anyone have any (Practical) advice on what I should do to stop my shed colorbond walls rusting?




Details:
**Built around 7 years ago.
**25Km from the coast.
**Concrete slab went down first, then shed built around it.
**Filled in the gaps between the slab and wall sheets with a cement / mortar mix to prevent vermin entering. (I think this is where the issue is)
**Lined the shed with timber ply sheets and fibreglass insulation.
**Rust is random around the shed, even in parts where there is no scoria.

Is there really a magic cure available or are they all BS?

Thanks
G.




Simondo
VIC, 8020 posts
29 Mar 2013 9:56PM
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Kill Rust Paint is probably an option that I would try.

Bunnings can probably even mix up the right colour these days. Thick layers of (kill rust) paint over the rusty bits... that's probably the easiest and cheapest "band-aid" solution. Just apply more paint every 3-6 months. After a few coats, you might almost stop it.




Essentially, the Colorbond Sheets would have been cut, so those bottom edges would have effectively had exposed bare steel...

My 2 cents worth...
And maybe take the photos into Bunnings... even easier if on a Camera Phone.

Gizmo
SA, 2865 posts
29 Mar 2013 9:58PM
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Bituminous paint.... used in roof and gutter repairs.

Should be available at Bumblings..... If you can find someone to help you.... If they have to know what your talking about....If they can remember where it is on the shelf...... Good luck!!!

stamp
QLD, 2776 posts
29 Mar 2013 9:37PM
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as a boilermaker i say cut a strip out of the entire bottom edge out with a grinder, & replace it. make sure the replacement strip is well primed and thick with bituminous paint or two part epoxy paint. try to keep a decent gap between the steel and any other surface so dirt & moisture don't collect.

or cut out a strip & substitute with timber or poly so the steel is off the ground.

rust converter, kill rust etc are a hoax in my opinion. once the cancer has started the only way to get rid of it is to cut it out. otherwise you're chasing your tail

stamp
QLD, 2776 posts
29 Mar 2013 9:39PM
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check the compatibility of the bituminous paint with the colorbond- lots of coatings have an undesirable reaction with colorbond

actiomax
NSW, 1575 posts
29 Mar 2013 10:52PM
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Colour bond is supposed to have multiple layers of undercoat that oxidase & prevent rust but it only works when it can dry as u have added morter that plus the lime in the morter has created rust & it won't stop I instal Stratco products bulescope etc &have the same problem with my shed but they are designed with a time limit so the undercoates will not oxides after so many years as they lose there reactive powers so while what is not affected could be good for another 20 years what had will grow u could cut off & replace bottom don't let it be embedded in anything a row of bricks that the sheets sit on after cutting off cancer will save it bit u would have to treat cut ends reactive power is over well it might still be good but if u go to the trouble to cut it back it would b worthwhile

dirtyharry
WA, 444 posts
29 Mar 2013 9:22PM
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Build that blue metal up another 50mm or so and you won't even know it's rusting!

Sailhack
VIC, 5000 posts
30 Mar 2013 1:24AM
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stamp said...
as a boilermaker i say cut a strip out of the entire bottom edge out with a grinder


DON'T DO THIS! The rest of the advice is sound except for cutting the sheet with a grinder. The heat from the cut will cause the sheet to rust along the edge.

My advice for the most inexpensive 'fix' - as the colorbond sheet has already corroded due to the direct contact with cement/lime is to cut about 150mm off the bottom of the sheet (using good old snips - won't cause rust) and replace with a 150x25 cypress plinth or similar with a matching colorbond sill flashing to tidy it up. The timber will allow drainage within the wall and floor connection and the flashing although there for mainly aesthetics, will seperate both mediums... the flashing can also be s/s as it is compatible with cb and could be a better material as a buffer... good luck!


Otherwise what dirtyharry said and never look at it!

nosna
QLD, 27 posts
30 Mar 2013 12:49AM
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Stop pissing on the side of your shed

gibberjoe
SA, 956 posts
30 Mar 2013 3:07PM
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are you using bore water nearby, that could be mineral burn......

sn
WA, 2775 posts
30 Mar 2013 2:38PM
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-Dampen surfaces with water,

-Spray with R10 rust converter [from auto-one type shops] bigger bottles are better, and lots more cost effective.
IIRC its non toxic, but wear gloves as it stains your skin.

-Leave for 24 hours to do its magic,

-Spray with penetrol [bunnings- in the paint section]

-After a couple of days drying, its ready for painting.

-If you buy pressure packs of penetrol, make sure you shake the cans heaps- and often while using it- or it will block nozzles.
Penetrol is also in 1 litre tins- I think you can use it in spray bottles [but havent tried it that way myself.]

Penetrol can also be mixed with paint to make it rust resistant, and spread better.

Using the above will be an almost permanent fix.
Then
-I would dig out around the shed, and pour a foundation of concrete hard up against the slab.
-Measure up the height of a couple of rows of bricks and cut the tin with a nibbler [easier than tinsnips] do not use a grinder!
-Fit flashing as you work your way along with the brickwork.

Start at back of shed, or where its out of sight- by the time you do the visible bits you will have learnt how to make it look smickoh.


Stephen

Beaglebuddy
1595 posts
30 Mar 2013 4:28PM
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It's hopeless, rust never sleeps. next time build the shed up on piers and posts.
It's sitting right on the ground soaking up water, any fix is just a band aid.
I would cut it off with a sawzall, never heard the bit about high temps from the grinder.
Then I would apply some sort of galvanizing coating to the raw metal.
Replace the section with either some sort of synthetic deck lumber or pressure treated lumber that's rated for ground contact if available.
I would like to think I know what I'm talking about because I'm a building trades contractor.

actiomax
NSW, 1575 posts
31 Mar 2013 9:10AM
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buy a metal cuting blade (cold saw ) fit it in circular saw cost $70 from bunnings cutting with tin snips around a whole shed you will end up with rsi. Its the quickest easiest way to cut

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
31 Mar 2013 8:09AM
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Change your user name to Galv Galv for a start.

GavGav
VIC, 193 posts
2 Apr 2013 6:36PM
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Thanks for your ideas / recommendations.

I will implement a bit from all of you (Except changing my user name)

Probably wait till next summer and cut it out (Low temp method) and replace with synthetic board and some flashing.

It is going to be a pain to do along the fence line, I will have to do it from the inside...

Thanks fellas.

GG.

Craig66
NSW, 2465 posts
2 Apr 2013 11:16PM
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Just cut about 100mm off all the main upright supports. Sheets will drop below the gravel line.

Out of site, out of mind



landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
3 Apr 2013 9:35PM
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of course you can use a grinder!!!! fit it with ultrathin cutting disc . no wrries
then the biuminous or the penetrol or others.
ahve a look at getting the water away from the edge of the shed as well ,
should have gone zinc alum

62mac
WA, 24860 posts
4 Apr 2013 5:30AM
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Any solutions to get rust stains off a tiled floor?Tiles are non slip around pool.

Sailhack
VIC, 5000 posts
4 Apr 2013 8:34AM
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The advice re; "don't cut with a grinder" came from my brother years ago (plumber). I own a shed with zinc roof sheeting that's rusted along the top edge due to being cut with a grinder (by previous owner). I've also seen colorbond begin to corrode along bottom edges cut with grinders, although going by the colorbond website, the recommendation of 'cold saw' blades seem ok. The issue seems to be damage to the plastic protective coating.

Living right next to the coast, I take any rust prevention advice on board.

"When sheets need to be cut on site the most suitable technique is with nibblers or power saws with metal cutting blades (tin snips can be used although they are difficult to use on profiled sheeting). The use of cutting discs and grinding wheels is not recommended as they generate very hot particles which can damage the coating.

BlueScope Steel recommends the use of cold cutting saw with appropriate blades."


colorbond.com/why-colorbond-steel

With steel sheds that I've built (or helped friends build), I always opt for footings for the columns, then pour an infill slab. Where the slab meets the iron cladding, I've found the best product to be 10mm 'brickies' polyethylene foam strip fixed to the walls & can be used as a screeding level line. This allows a buffer between mediums and also provides a control for slab movement.

Sailhack
VIC, 5000 posts
4 Apr 2013 8:35AM
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62mac said...
Any solutions to get rust stains off a tiled floor?Tiles are non slip around pool.


CLR?

62mac
WA, 24860 posts
4 Apr 2013 5:45AM
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Sailhack said...
62mac said...
Any solutions to get rust stains off a tiled floor?Tiles are non slip around pool.


CLR?


I gave that ago mate no luck or should I leave to soak in I was a bit concerned it would eat the tiles

gibberjoe
SA, 956 posts
4 Apr 2013 9:35AM
Thumbs Up


cut with one of those new drill attachments....."nibbler"



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Forums > General Discussion   Shooting the breeze...


"Rust advice from the Seabreeze brains trust please" started by GavGav