Forums > General Discussion   Shooting the breeze...

building a new house

Reply
Created by red > 9 months ago, 17 Feb 2011
GypsyDrifter
WA, 2371 posts
18 Feb 2011 11:18PM
Thumbs Up

Toots said...

Bathroom and kitchens are where you will spend most of your money so if you can keep them as small as possible the better.



can't cook in a small kitchen and hate small bathrooms

Toots
WA, 271 posts
19 Feb 2011 6:54AM
Thumbs Up

GypsyDrifter said...

Toots said...

Bathroom and kitchens are where you will spend most of your money so if you can keep them as small as possible the better.



can't cook in a small kitchen and hate small bathrooms


Each to their own I spose, but you'll be surprised at the costs of adding just another square meter. Im particularly biased against Mcmansions and Huge houses because they are 9 and half times out of ten never energy efficient. Basix will pass them when they show they have massive ducted reverse cycle a/c, but in reality basix is merely a token gesture, much like the carbon trading scheme. I spose coz I grew up in a 3 bedroom californian bungalow with 5 other siblings and two parents, I see Big as an indulgent nouveau riche wankathon.

I dont do residential design anymore and havent for the last 2 years, so I dont know how much my info is out of date, but pretty sure it wouldnt be as it is really quite general. If you think the computer industry is bad in keeping up to date wait til ya enter the building industry!

wdric
NSW, 1625 posts
19 Feb 2011 11:13AM
Thumbs Up

Simondo said...

Garage Door - 5.2m wide, not the more standard 4.6m to 4.8m.

Extra width to door and entire garage, allows you to get 2 cars in there, with far more comfort. And more comfort when getting in and out of cars. I know plenty of people around me with "normal small garages", and they can't even get 1 car in there. So much "stuff", shelves, kids toys, bikes.... not even room for 1 car !!

A standard Subaru Forester is 4.56m long x 1.8m. You want 0.75m on all sides, for comfort, parking tolerance, etc.
That means a 2 car garage should be 6m x 6.6m WITHOUT SHELVES. At least 6 x 6.25m. Add shelves to 3 sides, 400-500mm deep, plus 300+mm moving space = about 8m x 7m. That's a man's garage !!

Sure, you can go smaller.... But if you have toys, boards, kids, bikes, ski's, box's, a home business, etc.... 8m x 7m is THE GO !!. Or a separate storage area, separate to the garage. Perhaps a 3m x 5m storage room. Shelves on 3 sides... or shelves on 2 sides, toys on 1 side...... etc... either way, that extra 10-20m2 is critical for most people, in 2011 onwards.... bloody consumers !!



shed are never two big, better still have two or three of them

shannon8888
NSW, 517 posts
19 Feb 2011 11:39AM
Thumbs Up

the only thing that should be bigger than your kitchen is your shed

Hamsta
505 posts
19 Feb 2011 1:19PM
Thumbs Up

I cannot fathom why so many contemporary homes are built in metropolitan WA using double brick, cement block/face brick/rendering with clay tile roofs, given our climate?

GypsyDrifter
WA, 2371 posts
19 Feb 2011 1:21PM
Thumbs Up

^^^^^ I don't think anyone understands that hamsta!

Hamsta
505 posts
19 Feb 2011 2:13PM
Thumbs Up

I don't get big kitchens/bathrooms.

Kitchen: The best way to cook is to minimise the amount of washing up/cleaning up, use high heat and cook quickly. I use my gas BBQ 4-5 nights per week from September to March as I find it minimises energy consumption and clean up. I figure if I need a heap of bench space to prepare and cook, I am being inefficient and doing something wrong.

Bathroom: Shower, shave and cut hair. Baths are a waste of time/space. Girlfriend uses a portable backlit make up mirror if she feels the need. I like toilet/ bathroom/laundry in one as cleaning is easier and I like clever/well utilised space.


I guess my architectural tastes are influenced by Japanese and Asian residential designs. Less is more in my opinion.

Toots
WA, 271 posts
19 Feb 2011 2:58PM
Thumbs Up

Hamsta said...

I don't get big kitchens/bathrooms.

Kitchen: The best way to cook is to minimise the amount of washing up/cleaning up, use high heat and cook quickly. I use my gas BBQ 4-5 nights per week from September to March as I find it minimises energy consumption and clean up. I figure if I need a heap of bench space to prepare and cook, I am being inefficient and doing something wrong.

Bathroom: Shower, shave and cut hair. Baths are a waste of time/space. Girlfriend uses a portable backlit make up mirror if she feels the need. I like toilet/ bathroom/laundry in one as cleaning is easier and I like clever/well utilised space.


I guess my architectural tastes are influenced by Japanese and Asian residential designs. Less is more in my opinion.


Right on the money there Hamsta, efficiency of movement is key. I also cook outside on my High pressure wok burner or weber as much as possible. My Brother is a chef and swears by small kitchens and only has 3 burners in his kitchen at home.

Things that make me cringe;

-twin basins in the bathroom, I mean come on how often are the loving couple gonna be attached at the hip that they need to be together so much as to need twin basins
- the use of the terms "media room" or "theatre room" in 99% of cases its a friggin lounge room.
A true cinema would be sound insulated (with marine grade acoustic insulation and totally isolated. Many ppl install an acoustic plaster which does 2 parts of Phuck all.

ockanui
VIC, 1303 posts
19 Feb 2011 6:33PM
Thumbs Up

create a design that incorporates enough windows{ ie louvres} that will provide the ability to have cross flow ventilation, also have vents in ceilings and roof spaces that can be opened/closed depending on climates to reduce the build up of hot air, this will also reduce aircond costs and create a healthier living environment, a house does require constant changes of air, also have reverse cycle ceiling fans in order to recirculate hot air from ceilings,
A company called HRV, a new Zealand company specializes in energy efficient cooling and heating systems than can be incorporated into both new and older homes, I don't have associations with the company, I have built using these principles into all the homes that i have built for myself for years now and are amazed at the reduction in energy usage and how simple the application of can be, you can work your home by these methods to reduce consumption rather than flicking a switch to heating or a/c.
Also open plan homes are great for living/ entertaining but you do require the ability to close of spaces, this can be done with sliding doors back into wall cavities, not necessarily by using cavity sliders as this reduces acoustic ratings.
create an environment that is fun to live in that is cheap to run, easy to maintain and then you will have more time to go surfing and with the family.
always happy to give my two bobs worth on your plans

ginger pom
VIC, 1746 posts
19 Feb 2011 9:20PM
Thumbs Up

red said...


Bedroom in the SW corner for sleeping (shift worker) and as far away from the living as possible.


not sure on that. Hottest point of the day is 5pm in summer and the sun is on the west of the house.

We've just moved to sleep in the east bedroom and it's much better - cooler in the evening and warmer in the morning...

You won't sell the house to a shift worker....

ginger pom
VIC, 1746 posts
19 Feb 2011 9:28PM
Thumbs Up

from reading the comments here. I think you need to be very careful to think about a Victorian house as opposed to one from elsewhere in the country... especially re a house that holds heat... it's not going to make much difference on an August morning when it's been dark for 14 hours...

Can you find out who has recently built a house in the area that you're building in - and then ask them?

Toots
WA, 271 posts
19 Feb 2011 8:36PM
Thumbs Up

Ockanui, sounds like its based on the old system they used in Persia (Iran), back in the ancient days, known as windcatchers.

lotofwind
NSW, 6451 posts
19 Feb 2011 11:39PM
Thumbs Up

Hire a wicked van instead of building.

Then you can live with million dollar veiws every day,
move to shady or sunny position depending on the climate,
and they usually have hot half naked euro chicks hanging around them.

No rates,no water or electricity bills,no lawns to mow or fences to paint,very little cleaning for the misses,and the best locations to live in aus.

You can even get a replacement if it breaks down,at no extra cost.
Thats just sooooo wicked.

ockanui
VIC, 1303 posts
20 Feb 2011 11:33AM
Thumbs Up

not sure toots of the history involved, but to create air movement is vital, the old principle named after a town over your way the "coolgardie safe" the house I have built in Vic has lots of windows facing east and north which can be shaded from the high summer sun whilst allowing for solar gain in winter .
windows positioned on all sides to capture breezes from all points of compass.
I think as someone mentioned here too just build big is dumb, to design multi use rooms is better and to have an environmental smaller houses is smarter, not meaning all the hippy stuff but contemporary design that cover all aspects.
whatever the thought processes are in building, the main criteria is not to lose the opportunity to do better and not repeat the mistakes of the past. its not all about creating a pleasant facade

Test pilot 1
WA, 1430 posts
21 Feb 2011 1:03AM
Thumbs Up

Toots said...

-Solar/ gas are the best and cost efficient water heating
-If you install solar panels for elec, build room for storage battery banks.
-


If you install solar panels to export electricity so that they pay for themselves you DONT want batteries as when you have a dark day they will drain quickly trying to feed the power network and are expensive to start with and expensive to maintain

actiomax
NSW, 1575 posts
21 Feb 2011 7:23AM
Thumbs Up

the advice my brother gave me is dont bother with formal living dinning areas he spent a fortune on these two rooms & has only used them twice in 12yrs .also in regard to the eaves it was sutherland sire council that removed the eave requiment on houses so they could have medium dentsity houseing after a few yrs the electricty grid fails as all these houses need airconditiong running 24hrs a day they have now made it maditory to now have 600mm eaves on all new housing the freaking idiots they should have just left it alone at 450 & then there wouldnt have been a problem & guess who is going to pay for electricity upgrade

longwinded
WA, 344 posts
21 Feb 2011 10:05AM
Thumbs Up

Get a builder who knows what the term "square" means and gives a stuff about making sure that everything is. Just spent 2 full days installing a decidedly square wall unit into a corner that decidedly wasn't.

busterwa
3777 posts
21 Feb 2011 11:01AM
Thumbs Up



r]Build your house so that the main roof expanse faces north

The idiot neighbors though of that and will soon be staring at the back of my 40 foot shed..Why the hell would you build facing someone elses property I dunno what would posses anyone to build on such a ****ed up angle. Bet yah there regretting it now for the sake of a few dollars in heating and cooling.

Build parallel with your block ffs.

Paradox
QLD, 1326 posts
21 Feb 2011 2:13PM
Thumbs Up

Red,

Lots of advice here, most of it on design aspects which you may already have sorted.

I am just at the tail end of a rather large owner builder project and can give lots of advice if you are thinking of managing it yourself. there are so many ways to save money or get a better product for the same price.

Different story if with a building contract, but can be done.

As for your request for things to put in during construction, this is a small sample of mine:

1) data cabling to every room, cheap to do it now, expensive later.
2) wiring for security/and or CCTV system, including outside sensor lights
3) plumbing/power for an outdoor BBQ if you might need one down the track
4) in wall HDMI cables and extra noggings for wall mounts for that 80inch plasma you will buy in 5 years
5) same with speaker wire etc for your sound system, including outdoor speakers.
6) work out if you want a front door intercom/doorbell etc and allow cabling for it.
7) if your roof truss allows it, find a way to put in an access hatch and flooring in the ceiling to use as storage - with a power point and light.
8) we had the carpenter install a secret compartment (with false door) in the ensuite to store valuables.

Toots
WA, 271 posts
21 Feb 2011 1:25PM
Thumbs Up

Paradox said...

Red,


8) we had the carpenter install a secret compartment (with false door) in the ensuite to store valuables.


Not to grow Hydro?

Test pilot 1
WA, 1430 posts
21 Feb 2011 3:29PM
Thumbs Up

busterwa said...



r]Build your house so that the main roof expanse faces north

The idiot neighbors though of that and will soon be staring at the back of my 40 foot shed..Why the hell would you build facing someone elses property I dunno what would posses anyone to build on such a ****ed up angle. Bet yah there regretting it now for the sake of a few dollars in heating and cooling.

Build parallel with your block ffs.


I didn't say to build the house facing north just the roof to maximise use of solar heater/power

AUS02
TAS, 2001 posts
21 Feb 2011 9:03PM
Thumbs Up

We built a solar passive house around 6 years ago and only have a wood heater for heating and despite living in TAS rarely use it. We have an airlock front door area and a laundry acting as at airlock at the back of the house. House faces NNW and has an insulated concrete slab and concrete filled besser block internal walls, all for thermal mass. All windows are 12mm gap double-glazed with tint incorporated. We put the thickest insulation we could everywhere (every gap), had sisalation wrapped around the outside and another concertina-type sisalation on the inside. Large eaves and blinds to pull down to stop afternoon summer sun if too bright/hot. Also got special down-lights that can have insulation up against them. House temperature sits between 17-23 degrees pretty much all of the time (currently 19 after a cloudy cold day with snow on the mountain). Everything helps!! We also made it 20% bigger than our original design for more room!!

Half-way through:


Paradox
QLD, 1326 posts
22 Feb 2011 10:32AM
Thumbs Up

Toots said...

Paradox said...

Red,


8) we had the carpenter install a secret compartment (with false door) in the ensuite to store valuables.


Not to grow Hydro?


Nooo......but I did not mention that I also burried a 22,000L tank under the garage with a trapdoor access...

I was thinking wine cellar, but hey, a year or two of alternative use and I could stock it very well

Sailhack
VIC, 5000 posts
22 Feb 2011 3:06PM
Thumbs Up

Paradox said...



Nooo......but I did not mention that I also burried a 22,000L tank under the garage with a trapdoor access...



I hope you put in perimeter drainage & pumps. About 15 years back a local installed a large concrete tank under the floor and before they had connected the drainage it poured over a weekend whilst they were away & lifted their whole house!

Other than that, the inground tanks make great wine cellars!

Paradox
QLD, 1326 posts
22 Feb 2011 3:39PM
Thumbs Up

Floating is certainly an issue in the right (or wrong) conditions, but adequately assessed and addressed in my case, without the need for pumps thankfully.

My main issue was that before the roof downpipes were hooked up to the water tank (seperate tank) they drained the whole roof into a small area that regualrly flooded to near slab height. This would have been fine except the power and air con conduit for the cellar came out in the same area near top of slab.

Consequenlty I have now emptied the bloody cellar 3 times.

Downpipes are now in place so no longer a problem. Air con goes in shortly and wine straight after that! well, lid and lock to keep the wife out, then wine...



Subscribe
Reply

Forums > General Discussion   Shooting the breeze...


"building a new house" started by red