Hi, I went out kiting yesterday afternoon and my two lines connecting the chicken loop snapped, only leaving the chicken loop being held by the fifth line...
Does anybody know how to fix this? Its the lines that connect to the depower unit...
If you look at the picture its the second row, first pic, the two grey lines have broken and these connect to the next pic, vario cleat, which I still have...
You can buy a kit from your local North dealer, you knock the "U" pin out at the chicken loop with a tool provided and feed the new line the same path.
Otherwise find some 6mm dyneema sk75, attach it to the clamcleat with a bowline and run the same path as the old one. Just make sure it's the same length.
I am not sure how old your gear is but if you registered when you bought it (if you got it brand new) it should be covered under warranty. (extended 6 months)
Having said that, Mine broke after about what I figured was 20 hours kiting, on 2012 gear.
The Dyneema that they are using this year is Sh''te compared to last year.
I make my own up and replace it as and when I need to. (I have done in the past as well,)
Buy some grey 5 or 6mm Dyneema from the boat/yacht chandler, and then use a bic pen to feed down the centre of it, and splice and stitch. The hardest part of the whole exercise is putting the depower velcro tab back on at the finish.
Ingenuity will sort that.
Be carefull removing the "U" pin in the hub, as you will need to re-use it if you don't buy the North replacement stuff.
Once you have done it once, (slowly and carefully) it should only take about 20 minutes to change it out.
The Dyneema is about $5.00 for 2 meters, you will need a finished length of about 1.8 meters (from memory) and the effort is the same if you get a dinky di North piece or if you make it yourself.
(if you have all north gear, buy 10 meters of it and make up a few, its cheaper and you get better at it as you go.)
As a final remark, it is disappointing that North have sort inferior quality cord, but it is a small price to pay to use such dependable gear. I just hope it is not a sign of things to come as they (apart from valve glue) have a good reputation for quality.
WOW. For such an expensive bar you think they wouldnt be cutting corners useing cheap materials.
the bait is set
Hey Bryce,
AS the guys have mentioned that's your depower line. I've just gone through hell replacing another one over the weekend with the North replacement line / tool on my 2011 bar.... The U pin was completely stuck to the Rotor head as the inside of the head was corroded on to the pin. so this destroyed 3 of the pissy tools North provide to "gently" tap it out....What a joke!
Has anyone else had this problem? - The bar is barely 1 season old and the metal Swivel head has completely corroded on the inside. With out a vice , Awl, Hammer much blood spilt and cursing of Norths feeble design on an otherwise top product the U pin would of never come out...And is now far from reliable or safe to use.
North needs to pick up on this flaw which they already are well aware of before we have corroded bars falling apart on every beach (Like has been happening with the new F-One Bandit 4/5 bars)
I've replaced the Depower lines on 2 other older NOrth bars which were much easier / never had this problem. Just looks like a design problem with the more recent 2011-12 bars. So, My advice to all North users is to check that you can remove the U pin and that your rotor head is OK well before your Depower line needs replacing.
Hope it's alot more straight forward for yours mate - it's normally pretty easy going.
Cheers for the chance to Rant!! Good luck with it mate, let us know how u go!
Shocking that such an expensive kite has such a crap bar. Just buy another brand.
My 2012 North bar is about to snap too. Not a very well thought out piece of equipment.
BTW what alternative bar and lines can be used on North kites?
After reading this I got a little worried. I have had the North replacement chicken loop kit sitting on my desk for a week or so and havent got around to changing it.
Background:
Bar 5 months old, used exclusively on all four of my kites (7/9/12 Rebel & 16 Dyno)
Ride pretty much every windy day and rinse bar well in fresh water after every session.
Thought this job was going to be a mission so sprayed a few tiny squirts into the pin ends and let sit for about 45mins. Clamped Roto head in vice gently with a towel to protect it. Couple of gentle taps with a plastic mallet (I always start gentle and work my way up to the heavy kit) and she slid straight through. Over tappped it slightly and the tool got a bit stuck so flipped it over, gave it a tap and she popped straight out. Flipped it over again, clamped the protruding pin in the vice and wiggled the roto head off.
All up, not including spraying 2mins tops.
Pin looks fine...happy to use again.
Very relieved!
Added a 6mm sailing line to gf's bar (hence the colour), the inner core is only 4 mm but it has a load weight of 1600 Kilos more than enough. Outer sheath should prevent chaffing plus wear and tear. I hope....... COST ONLY $7.90
Harty - You have a good point. i was told as long as the rope fits the cleat properly then it should work fine. I should have used DYNEEMA perhaps but this stuff feels good. Either way i will test it thoroughly tomorrow, wind looks good from 8am tomorrow in perth all friggin DAY :) If the rope holds i wont be shark bait.
As I said, purely an observation. My experience with kernmantle ropes is limited to climbing and rope access work, I have no history with sailing at all. With climbing rope, the internal fiber holds the tensile strength, and the outer is essentially for its protection.
That line looks similar to the old ozone clear lines, wear really well, what knot did you use tying to the cleat, slip knot? I'd maybe change it for a bowline,
It is a weird kind of slip knot and i stitched the end together so it cannot come loose. Cant think how i came to it.
The north depower line is designed to look worn and tatty when it needs replacing.
By the look of the corroded elements the bar has not been regularly rinsed after use.
It is a simple replacement with 5mm amsteel dyneema, most kite stores should stock it, a bit of practice splicing to make the loop and as said before the most difficult part is re-feeding through the velcro hoody and hopper.
North sell the kit for about $35 and this takes out the hassle of splicing etc.
We get customers in who are quite happy to pay an additional $20 to fit a $20 replacement valve.
Some people just want to get back out on the water with a minimum of hassle, and don't mind paying for it.
With all basic repairs and maintenance, kites shops would rather just show you how to do it yourself and sell you the spare parts, rather than actually doing it for you.
But if you want you gear to last longer a couple of tips:-
1. Rinse your bar and lines, harness and board in fresh water after each session and dry in the shade, and you'll double the life of your equipment.
2. Check your seams for dropped or missing stitches when you pack the kite away, this makes it stay as $5, 20 second restitch rather than a 2 day $100 repair.
3. Check your canopy for small tears and abrasions and get them patched and sewn before they become full-on LE to TE rips.
4. If it looks like it needs replacing then, get it done before your next session not after a 2km swim in
I know a lot of people who do not wash their gear after a kite and it just baffles me. The ocean corrodes, it's called preferential oxidation, ,or electron flow from high to low potential, commonly known as rust. Der, wash ya bloody gear.
Yep, Washing in fresh water after every use definitely recommended.
Still, as you can see in the pics it hasn't made any difference with this Rotor head though.... So far so good though. No drama's with it since replacing the depower line. As Mentioned I've replaced these a few times before and never had this problem, so thought it useful to share with other North user / abusers just in case anyone else has / is noticing same dramas. From the Feedback from another stockist, this has popped up on North's Radar as a common problem (u pin - becoming stuck) Cheers all
That rope is one of the toughest lines made, I've been using it for years on all boats I've raced.
The inner dyneema core you would have trouble cutting with sizors, the outside sheath is tough as you will have no problems with wear and the line is made to be used in many different types of cleats so no problems.
I've done the same on an old north bar but I spliced the inner core and slide it inside the sheath and stitched them together. This is the join to the bottom of the cleat.
Well i went out today for 3 hours with a 10m in 20+- knot winds. This rope is awesome, grips the cleat very well and doesn't get stuck. My knot holding good. Overall very happy with it. Much nicer to deal with than the north rope. Going to change my other bar as well.
