After 2 months and 4 leashes I am OVER IT!
The first two to bite the dust where from North. This leash as featured in the above picture suffered from a bending clip eventually making them as useful as a one legged man in an ar$e kicking contest.
Thats two leashes same issue RRP $60 each
The second leash to crash and burn was the 2011 Naish leash in white it proved even worse than the North.
The first one ripped inside the webbing making it about 2M long. I took that back to Windsurfing Perth which they replaced. Two session with that and the clip completely broke no spring back.
So this equated to over $200 in leashes in a couple of months.
I ride wake style unhooking and get burned a fair bit but seriously why can kite manufacturer not provide decent accessories?
Anyone else?
Maybe modify the North one with a 316 Stainless caribiner. Not what you want really but it would solve the issue.
Press it back in shape with a vice or
on site try reshaping it with one of these (watch your fingers)
I have almost made this thread a few times over the years.
My leash I made was quite reliable I thought.
On the end that attaches to the harness a stainless steel ring (no way this is going to accidentally come undone (you don't need this end to be able to come on and off, having 2 ends just makes it more likely to have a **** up)
On the other end a screw up carabiner, no chance of accidental release, pretty unlikely to fail under load.
As for the quick release, what ever you are comfortable with, most of the ones I have tried have either come undone accidentally way to easy or have been impossible to activate under load.
The thing is with the clips you don't need something that can quickly detach, if you NEED to ditch the leash you use your QR. Clips like Galah's are prone to accidentally triggering.
You only work this out when you use your leash frequently.
Standed snap shackles are crap.This is what im rocking now after having to swim after 4 kites due to bent hooks.
I don't mean to sound like a prick (well actually I'm sure I do) but have you thought about how you ride? For instance, do you loose your kite after it does a half loop after a failed handlepass, at which point you let go and the leash snaps?
I ask this because I rarely (infact I cant remember the last time) I broke a leash and completely lost a kite. I had a Cab leash for 3 years until the elastic snapped, but the leash itself was still intact. I think this is because when I do a trick and I grab the end of the bar and know there is no chance of making it clean I just let go of the kite. You can land or crash like normal and the kite is pretty much depowered waiting for you to grab the bar.
Perhaps something to think about, although a good leash is something you do need as well.
the best would be:
- a quick release snap shackle at one end (see image, you only need to change the small red rope to make it easier to grab in emergency), more info on that shackle on:http://www.wichard.com/fiche-A|WICHARD|2673-0202040301000000-ME.html
- then a ~ 2m long (shorter or longer depending on your preference) dyneema rope (~8mm diameter) that you eye splice at both ends
- then you sew in the middle of the dyneema rope, some ~2mm shock cord
- then at the other end, you add another rope (thinner ~ 3mm dyneema) eye spliced at both ends, that will loop into your safety system: you only need one safety release close to you, and you don't have the risk to injure your hand with another shackle close to the bar when doing handle passes!
the only problem is that such shackles are pretty expensive in OZ...so I did my leash with the cheap version (not as safe) as suggested by GalahOnTheBay.
if you really want a nice finish, you can add a protective braid form a thicker rope (~12mm diameter) on the top of those ropes
then you have a light, safe & super strong leash!
Some solid mods there guys cheers. I will definitely be building a bespoke leash for sure. My point really is that if manufacturers are going to claim a leash to be a handle pass leash then build it to last.
Consider the materials and test the tensile strength of the products. Attach it to a truck and pull the damn thing to see what it can withstand. Why not?
I dont think this applies to just leashes though other accessories such as foot straps and pads are ** quality. Companies could do well to step up quality of their products and build on success rather than trying to reinvent every year to suck people into the latest shiny new thing.
Is there a market for a leash that works? The ultimate handle pass leash?
The Wichard shackles don't release reliably under pressure. There is a minute amount of flex in the gate and the notch at the tip of the gate can lock into place. I have read this and repeated it in tests, but not in use. You can file the corner off the edge of the gate but than runs the risk of making it too easy to release.
You also have to be careful adding a grab handle or knot to the release line. The water flow from body dragging is enough to release the shackle. I have experienced this in use.
Have you thought of a different leash already on the market- eg Flexifoil?
They are long and are stronge, I have had mine under load a lot for the past season and haven't had a problem with it at all. If i don't make a pass it just does it's job
^^^^^
I agree that you can save your leash a lot by not trying to act like a sea anchor when you come off
Make your own, use a 4 mm dyeema larks head instead of a hook. Run 4mm spectra or dyeema between the larkshead and Wishard shackle so all the load is taked by the rope, not webbing. Run an elastic cord next to it to give you the bunge effect. Encase the whole thing in neoprene or tube webbing. You will snap the front lines before you snap this one.
Mine been going stong 2 years now, lots of missed unhooked tricks and handle passed attemps.
where do you clip ur leash sci? i found i bent bulk hooks when i clipped it above the CL to the centre line, but when i switched to hooking into my 5th and chicken loop i have not had any problems at all.
i think the problem with clipping above is when the kite suddenly puts power on you are pulling perpendicular or at least at an angle to the body of the clip which is adding stress to the top of the clips and weakens them up over time.