Bill ( FAZE 5) recently turned up witjh a sailboard mast cut down to a nice little 3 piece. I decided that it fitted so nicely in the sail bag I would make some too.
the mast I'm using is a 4.3m mast which has a 49mm ID at the base.
I have cut the mast at 1.65 and 3.30m from the base.
The joining plugs will be 300mm long giving an overall length on each section of 1800mm which is the same as the length of the seat and the boom.
you will need 1500mmx50x50 of really strong wood eg RAMIN, TASSIE OAK, old growth DOUGLAS FIR(Oregon pine). I think Bill used Ramin. I am using 20 growth ring to the inch Douglas Fir. it comes from some 1945 army stretchers that had been stored in an air raid shelter until recently . they ended up at the tip and were rescued by me .cut into lengths of 2x300mm,1x700mm,1x200mm.
Always choose the correct saw as some larger tooth pattens may splinter the wood.
The cut ends are measured for ID then that is marked on the end of a 300mm piece of the wood. The square is rounded with a plane by 8 siding then 16 siding.
my choice of weapon is a lovely 1910 BAILEY /STANLEY No 7 with a 1920's sweetheart blade.
Next I sand the top 150mm to fit the upper section. This is how I cheat. be careful,especially if the fingers that are holding the wood are already missing some bits.
when fitted I sand the lower half so that it will fit up the tapered section and poke out 150mm. When the fit is good it is slid in with liquid nails on the lower half and rammed home with a broom handle.
this process is repeated for the next section.
the 700mm piece is rounded and tapered to fit in the base of the mast. the top edge of each plug should be rounded off so there is no sharp edges pressing on the inside of the mast.
when finished I waxed the exposed parts of the wood.
the end
What a lot of hard and fiddly work to make the wood into a round section. Surely, there must be an easier and more precise way to do it 
IMO, The better glue to use for gluing and sealing the wood/aluminium section would be an adhesive called "AV 515". This is what I use at home for all the furniture I make. The glue was recomended to me by a close friend of mine who is a super professional furniture maker. He uses this glue for almost everything. It will glue every material together except metal to metal. It requires that a very small percentage of moisture be present which is why wood is so perfect to glue with this stuff. It wll glue wood to aluminium or carbon fiber, brick to brick and fingers to fingers, but not like cyanoacrilate do, (ie, super glues). Its also used for building boats.http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=34010
www.avsyntec.com.au/
Kody
This being a project to build out of readily available materials, the choices I gave myself were, aquadhere,liquid nails,contact adhesive.. liquid nails is good to use in this application as it doesnt make a sticky mess. I would have preferred to use a good epoxy like WEST,Concorde plastics FRED or similar given the good fit I obtained for these plugs without the use of an expensive specialized machine
I am well pleased with the result. this system didnt require constant unclamping of the piece and I finished 2 masts in 3 hours.
It wouldnt hurt to do a practice piece on a scrap of pine first.
I checked out your AV515. It appears to be a Polyurathane type glue. you can use it straight out of the tube or wet the wooden surfaces for a reactive 'strong bond"
I trialed a selleys version of this glue in my last wooden boat building phase. The label said "Ideal for boats" . the simple test I do with glues is to glue some blocks of wood together and when dry drop them in a bucket of water, and do another and nail it to the fence with the plywood samples.
In the Polyurathane test I did the glue lasted 2 hrs in water and 4 days in the sun. the worst glue I used.
on reading the fine print I found a line that said, "not for below waterline use".
I have yet to see or test a polyurathane that has been even remotely useful when things get wet or under stress.
sorry.
feel free to prove me wrong by doing a test and photographing /documenting it for us all
FAZE 5 might be having a bit of a "told you so" moment when he reads on.
The green mast I cut down was a bit on the old sideand when I hit a repectable speed and a bump it split at the lowest join. Bill re ckoned that the mast he went silly with at Gillies needed a wrap ofglass around the joins. HE WAS RIGHT!
Today I did just that using some continuous roving from a roll I bought. I used about 1.5m for each mast,(4 joints). tommorrow I will clean them up and get some photos.
Meanwhile I thought maybe I should build a stiff Aluminium 3 piece mast and see how some of the sails perform with a stiffy up their pockets. here is the measurements and diamensions of the stock I used. the mast worked out well and is still in convenient 1800mm lengths. overall length is 4600mm. that should be just right for the BLOKART size sails Ive been making and recutting. 
