Ah!!! Thanks Vic.
With that assembly coming off a bike it would be very light as well.
Clever.
Well, worked on my damper assembly today. On the following images my idea is presented.
You are unbelievably good with your graphics SJK. Wouldn't it be great if you could just 3D print it out.
Very nice 3D CAD work JSK.
With regard to the position of the stub axles relative to the Y frame (legs). You may have to move them forward so the 45 degree angle intersects with the center of the inside face of the wheel. Intersecting the absolute center if the wheel only works if the legs are sloping up to the wheel at an angle perpendicular to the camber of the wheel viewed from the rear.
The idea is to counteract the outward twisting action created by the side force with an inward twisting action.
3D printing would indeed make it easy, but then I will miss all the fun of building the yacht
For the steering of almost all our other yachts we use cable steering. I think this is a very easy way of making it. However, I recall seeing a topic at seabreeze about it and thought that it was concluded that rod steering has its advantages over cable steering. (I think it was this topic, www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/Construction/Class-Five-Design/?page=6, or is there another with more info on the steering?) That's why I tend to use rod steering, but first I will need to have a close look on how to build it. And I will have to find a place where I can buy the stuff, like a flexible rod joiner.
The stub axles are indeed something I will still have to look at. Has there been a topic on it at seabreeze? Otherwise I will just change it the way you suggest, Clemco. I'm assuming that you have more experience with this than I do.
I think a lot of what you are looking for can be found in this link of Clems.(need to go through all pages)
Cheers
aus230
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/Construction/Clemco-Mini-Build/?page=1
The rims where made totally with fiberglass and epoxy resin. I had a huge problem with them blowing apart at the joints when they got hot(38c+) To overcome the problem I started using mountain bike rims welded together(ended up about the same weight) I now use polyester resin so the wheels are now very cheap to make.
Cheers
Vic
I got a little difficulty finding a flexible rod joiner. But then again, why not use a ball joint, like this:
It would produce a steering system like this. I think it'll work.
What dimensions (inner/outer diameter) do you use for the rod?
I am not sure how the ball joint will work with lay over steering, I use Nolathane rod.
It may be it would be worth while considering making your foot steering position adjustable for and aft so that you can fine tune your weight position for different surfaces, I had mine fixed originally but found it much better to be able to adjust. The steering rod can be made adjustable by using 2 tubes one inside the other (telescopic)
I wouldn't use ball joints if you are sailing on beaches. Salt and sand will clog them up very quickly. Nolathane (or similar brand) rod is the best option. Rod size 5/8" stainless steel tube is what I have used for outer and next smallest size for inner. If you are going to use rod steering you would be best using a single fork front end as the weight of the steering rod will balance the the weight of the single fork. Like this one by Imac NZ
Ok, I'll change the plans again. Since I will be sailing on beaches most of the time, you've already convinced me that the ball-joint isn't such a good idea. Making the foot steering position adjustable doesn't seem to be difficult and worth the work for the advantage. Also a single side front fork will be no problem making, I think.
Then I will be searching for the Nolathane rod or something similar again. Actually, it is just a plastic rod that is flexible, so it can deal with the small angle changes due to steering, isn't it? So actually it can be everything that is made of flexible plastic?
I believe someone on the forum has used a short length of 'hydraulic' hose for the steering joints (this sort of hose is very strong and still flexes).
the rod in America is sold as Polyurethane rod you can find the address on the web.
Nolathane is actually a trade name.
www.professionalplastics.com/POLYURETHANESHEETSRODS
I saw that Nolathane uses it for cars, so maybe I will have to look at a shop for car parts. Otherwise the hydraulic hose doesn't seem to be a bad idea. I think I will be able to find something that will do the job. Now at least I know what to search for (polyurethane rod is more general than Nolathane rod).
Why? To confuse people looking at their site for building ideas 
I would have thought it would have limited the turning ability of the yacht.
Yeah, it does seem very strange. Especially since the rod is connected so close to the wheel, that it doesn't look like it is still able to turn far enough.
There is a relatively small amount of movement required to turn the wheel which is one advantage of the 30 degree layover steering and as it turns to the right the rod connection point lifts higher and the connection rod clears of the rear of the wheel.
The steering pedals would only have from hard right to hard left 200 mm travel at most and correspondingly less movement at the connectin pivot
The steering on the airtracks is not layover steering, they have stuck with the C type steering. I think Clem posted some drawings of it some time ago. Here is a pic of the system.
the steering show in the above pic is not the same steering that Airtrack uses, Airtrack is a little defferent they take into account , caster and camber, I have some good pictures of the steering used by airtack and the rest of the yatch, we have two of the class 5's hear is the US which I see regularly on the playa. and they do as number on everything in that class and below. The two yatch pictured are the ones that came to the US., that steering is good, sweet, right on, I like it..the wheel stays very vertical and has a very high cridical angle be before tip over, 30 degree angle has a very low critical angle be for tipover. As soon as I figure out how to get the pictures posted I'll do it...Burt
That steering on the Airtrak is a pretty accurate copy of the original Seagull from about 1984!
"pretty accurate copy of the original Seagull from about 1984!"
Of course Seagull is our Master but this kind of steering was made before WW2
and specially by mr Demoury on class 3 and even class 1. Also in Belgium Deckers used same solution.http://le-tour-d-afrique.over-blog.net/pages/Z_Petite_histoire_du_char_dans_la_famille-2231960.html
Sorry if I have been misinterpreted. I was not trying to say that JPK "invented" the C bar steering, just that the execution of the Airtrack is a very close copy of the Seagull.
Of course Cbars have been around a very long time.
Re the question of Cbar vs roll over steering. Personally a well executed C bar with castor, centre patch steering etc etc is great, just that a well executed rollover is a bit better. If the rollover is not well set up, they are awful, then again so is a poorly executed, Cbar, forks or anything else!
