Lake lefroy class 5 project 2013/14/15.......

a quick notice to those who want in on the class 5 building program this year at lake lefroy. the start date for building the frame jig will be the weekend of Saturday 23 and Sunday 24 November.
plan is ti sort out the jig, and start mass cutting most of the components.
plan is to get the jig and first basic chassis done on that weekend , plus most of the cutting . once the first chassis is out of the jig the jig will be passed onto the most keen participant to work on thier chassis.
let me know if your in or out with a PM or my phone no.
we hope to put up plans/photos of progress so see you soon
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
..
im gonna get shot

were building flat Y frames with a 20 degree back end. front will have optional "bermingham "type suspension. they will be 4.00x8 wheels ,but can convert to 26" later if they want to start building wheels. mast step to take 55mm OD windsurfer masts or a sleeve to go ally.
A simple easy to build design for starters. seats will be stitch and glass of thier own design.
I have a rotating jig for building the basic chassis, so that all the welds will be horizontal . we had lots of interest after september, and the guys were all ringing and asking the same questions over and over, so its easier to do a group build

Some progress made on class 5 building programme.

-cutting out of components
-setting the jig up
-plenty of grinding
-some welding

Here are some Pic's will include more detailed explanations and plans once Landyacht has his computer back.



















Ben

Is

it just me or does your shop area look like the set of junkyard wars. I wish I had that warm weather here in the northeast states that you have for building outside. good luck great project keep building great yachts.

Those wheels are very interesting for a land yacht but for reasons of safety and therefore the rules they need to be fitted with at least a plastic shroud on the inner sides to prevent hands/arms from being placed in between the spokes and subsequently torn from the body to which they should not be separated from.

Otherwise they look fantastic but before suggesting they could be fitted to a land yacht one would need to know what they weigh. I suspect they may be too weighty to be of serious value to a land yacht.

same weight as a vic or paul glass wheel. what is the diameter,width,tyre size and bearing type/shaft size
AND price

you might have to take a holiday in bali or thialand and bring back som tyres
I reckon they would be nice to sail, but yes a wheel cover will be necessary so the dont turn into a sheet winch

I did not realise how far back the thread was. I made the plug with moulding plaster over a mouse wire frame, Can not remember how much glass I used. Paul made one using timber. The plaster one I made was pretty easy as long as you had the basic frame shape before applying the plaster to the wire.

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/Construction/Building-new-class-5/?page=1

ps our wheels method has changed a lot since my first attempt

G'day (right?),
i've been reading and learning a lot in this Forum for some time now.
Just like to contribute that the 10-spoke rims are the new wheels for the class Standart(Seagull), as the older rims from small motor-bikes are getting of short supply.
(guess my english reading is better than my writing...)
BTW: is that " drop by and say hello" thread still in use? (last post 5 years ago)

Joe

there you go ,they even have special tyres. be warned , I suspect they would be sand tyresso heavy use on salt or walyungup gravel may lead to short life, but I would be interested for somebody to do the experiment
the tyre price is comparable with hookworms. they also have the rims listed for a good price

great progress today, we got a bunch of cutting achieved. All tricky angles that had to be hand held in the drop saw. lyndon managed 28 components,all spot onand no accidents,so a great learning day for him,ben boulder had the cleanup and has taken home a pile of little prep welds.
we got stuck in with the jig . the tricky bit is making a jig that holds parts in place for welding ,but allows the chassis to pop out afterwards and allows access for welding.heres the days cuttingcleaning

and the start of the complicated part of the jig



its all looking like a nice neat yacht

I might be able to to do sunday , but depends on the weather, if its sailable , we might go sailing.
before you start thinking pods,yuo'll need to get the chassis's further along , theres still plenty to cut and grind

This end of the down haul still worries me if the yacht comes to a sudden stop (like a car or wall ect) Maybe worried about nothing but thought I should point it out.

It allows you to move your sheeting back further than your goolies.On clay we can move our weight back over 250mm more than the salt, or walyungups gravel, Its closer to sand. . it also allows easier sheeting with the pulleys back at 3/4 rather than centre sheeted.
its been working for me and Ive yet to scratch myself on it. Id be more concerned at breaking a leg getting flipped out of an OTT chassis
next session is sunday morning from 8.30. bring extension leads and grinders /discs. if you have any bits of 25x6 flatbar(not galv) we are a bit short.
also bring water as its gonna be a hot windless day

Select to expand quote

landyacht said..

It allows you to move your sheeting back further than your goolies.

When it's mounted I suppose you could use a fairly light "cross pin" or better still a pinch bolt on one diagonal corner of the outer RHS sleeve, done up just firmly enough to hold it.
This pushes the contact area to 2 surfaces and wont rock about.

With the blanked off/cap for safety on the, welded "angled inner RHS piece" extended back towards you, that would still do the job, but it would then become a crumple zone as it slips forward, if you happen to stop quickly.

You would still end up with black jelly beans, but it's just a thought.

They are looking GREAT!!!!!!

More components completed yesterday.