Forums > Land Yacht Sailing Construction

Making a Fiber Glass Seat

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Created by Nikrum > 9 months ago, 4 Oct 2010
Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
23 Oct 2010 10:47PM
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Ok! iand, It seems that given my test piece on Chopped Fiber Mat and the Graphs I think I can't be too far of the mark. Being as I have all the products at hand and the Wax, Flowcoat and PVA due to arrive early next week I haven't got much choice anyway.
Landyacht said in an earlier post that i only have a couple of hours to lay up the whole thing???
1. Is it a prerequisite to lay a job up in one hit??
2. The rollers used to compact the mat and Resin. Are they a plain metal roller or is there anything special about their design?? (have made a simple Roller from a piece of Chromed Brass tubing)
Ron

Test pilot 1
WA, 1430 posts
23 Oct 2010 8:35PM
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From my limited experience assisting "landyacht" it is easier to do it in one go. If you do it in sections you need to be sure to remove any air bubbles as these will weaken any over laps.
Rollers:- get a bolt say 16mm dia or less with 75 - 100mm thread. Cut off the thread and drill a small hole in each end. Then just make a wire handle and off you go. Thats all we use. Remember to keep clean but if you forget just burn them clen and wash in appropriate thinners. Make a couple to be sure.

iand
QLD, 243 posts
24 Oct 2010 12:42AM
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Is it a prerequisite to lay a job up in one hit??-simple, yes and no
yes-if using waxed polyester resin otherwise you need to sand between coats
no-if using unwaxed polyester resin, under 24hours between coats
no-if using epoxy resin
but maximum strength is achieved in a single layup in all cases
flowcoat polyester is waxed
gelcoat polyester is unwaxed
one of the things you need to remember is the type of construction and material you're using don't utilize the advantages of epoxy and won't see the increase in strength that is possible with epoxy, if you do more seats in this way I would use polyester or vinylester. Epoxy comes into its own when using alternative techniques that use cloth, kevlar or carbonfibre. Epoxy is the last choice when doing a solid chopped mat construction and in general is used where you minimize the resin you use, as opposed to chopped mat which in a way utilizes the resin as a packer to achieve a thickness that gives you sufficient strength.

kiwi307
488 posts
24 Oct 2010 3:47AM
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Nikrum said...

I thought I had best throw this one in for those whom may doubt.
Epoxy and Chopped Strand Glass Mat.




This was describbed in the previous Post,
Ron



As I am sure this was addressed at me; ask Landyacht where he learned about glassing? My background with 'glass in a nutshell.
Fabricator for windsurf and small yacht industry for 4 years, workshop manager Windrush Yachts 2 years, manufacturer of Marblehead yachts, race car panels, and sprintcars under my own brands. Brief work with British Aerospace, carbon components for Harrier jump jets. Maker of all Glen yacht fibreglass components for 3 years. Maker of all glass components for Seagull yachts on my return to NZ for 3 years. Obviously a lot of one offs for myself including the Avatar, which by the way is Vinylester, tri-axial and bi axial. Along the way I was the maker of all test panels for the Auckland University School of engineering composites department, which lead to the fibreglass America's Cup yacht laminate design.
No, you are right I don't know what I am talking about.

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
24 Oct 2010 9:05AM
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K1W1307
Hey! Keep yer Hair on. Shees! I think you had best ort go back over the thread and reread it.I made no such Statement nor did I suggest you "Don't know what you are talking about" I simply stated;
1. that I have done a test patch and it worked, as far as the eye can tell.
2. I had the audacity to think Fiber Glassing was a simple straight forward process.
3. Providing that one follows a series of steps one should be able complete a simple
Seating arrangement without too much trouble.
4. I had purchased certain fiber Glassing Materials before I learned that I shouldn't
use Chopped Strand Mat with Epoxy. Funny thing is I also have been talking
to a sail maker who is doing this stuff as well. He seemed to think that
providing I use the products being aware of the pitfalls and take particular
care there shouldn't be too many problems. If you wish to enlighten me with
Your views the info would be taken into account.

5. I am sorry if I offended your sensibilities. Dang! K1W1's. You guys haven't
changed one bit in 30 years. Is it the old NZ-Aus' Rivalry or what??

I tried, without success to start a War with Scotland and failed miserably and now it looks like I have accidently caused one between Aus and N Z. I lived over there for 10years only ever got into one fight and that was against a thief. I Married a north island girl, that has been an ongoing war for 37years but we survive each others foibles.
I shall state hear and now for any and all readers that " I read and absorb any and all info given me. I do not care if the author has built Inter Stellar transports or has only (Like Myself) Just started out. Everyone's experience and opinion is valid, unless proven otherwise. I trawl the info and glean the best path under the circumstances to suit my purpose. "No one is 100% right, that also includes me. However you will never hear me admit to that statement in the future I should note that if I tell any one they are "Talking outa their BUTT" That is precisely what they will see or hear. I write as you read it Do Not Read Between the Lines as you will no doubt find cause f to be insulted.
Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
24 Oct 2010 9:24AM
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OK! Testpilot and iand,
I hope I've not insulted you guys too.
Now the info you have provided helps me to understand the process and quality I am trying to achieve. Thanks guys.

I may well be wrong but to my thinking, the physical side of most things is only 10% of the making of anything the learning and knowing takes 90%. A bit like archery a precise shot takes only 10% the concentration and learned skill takes up the other 90%.
At the moment the Epigen907 I mentioned in earlier threads would appear to be a great product and well suited to making composites of Carbon/Glass fiber and metal jointing. Time will tell though. I have used the product to joint a Bicycle Steering Head into a Carbon Spine and also to set the Mast Step into the Spine, in order to protect the Carbon I have to now over bandage the joints to Brace those High Stress points. I take the Belt and Braces line.
Peerless Industrial Systems makes and sells this product Globally www.peerlessindustrialsystems.com
Ron

kiwi307
488 posts
24 Oct 2010 8:45AM
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Not offended at all. You asked for advice which was given, and then appear to not take too much of it on board, hence the reaction.
To re-iterate, epoxy is a high class product (and a pain in the ass to work with cos it does not go off for hours) and CSM is the lowest grade glass that money can buy.
It's a bit like spending money on having the best engine you can afford to have built for you, and then running it on the lowest possible grade of petrol.
I will be contrary to Iand too, I work VERY hard to have good resin to glass ratios and polyester is NOT (in my opinion) a "padding material". Easy way to check this is see how easy it is to break the cured resin out of your mixing pots. You don't use straight cement with no aggregate, and where the reinforcing steel is needed you use it. Think of your resin as the cement (not the complete concrete mix) and the cloth etc as the aggregate and the steel.
Nikrum, I think you have a mismatch of ingredients on their way to you. Flowcoat (a polyester product) is what you would use on the INSIDE of your finished seat, ie the opposite side to the mould. (Flowcoat will not bond properly to epoxy either!) Waxed because polyester does not completely cure unless sealed from the air, which is what the wax does. If you want that seperately is comes in a sloution with monomerstyrene, or you add a few drops of wax solution to your unwaxed product.
You mention wax, is this release wax or wax for resin? Two entirely different products.
I don't know your Epigen, so won't comment except to say there are different materials for laminating/bonding/mould made products. In my opinion a landyacht seat, especially a mini does not justify anything except polyester for the final product. If you have used any polystyrene foam for the "plug" you need to make sure that it is totally sealed before any polyester product gets near it.
Glassing is very easy, making the decisions on the materials and their uses is the only difficult bit. If you want to get high strength to weight then this becomes an area of a lot of research (otherwise know as mistakes!)

iand
QLD, 243 posts
24 Oct 2010 11:33AM
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kiwi307 said...
which lead to the fibreglass America's Cup yacht laminate design.

Got to ask you Rhys Australia 4's moment of fame (sinking) in your opinion was it because she ground her teeth (the laminates moving in relation to each other)
kiwi307 said...I will be contrary to Iand too, I work VERY hard to have good resin to glass ratios and polyester is NOT (in my opinion) a "padding material".
-maybe I didn't word it properly, total fibreglass construction relies on shape and thickness, when using foam or wood vacuum techniques reduce the amount of resin to cloth ratio. Now I know who to talk to when having glass issues (although it's hard with words, visual is so much easier). One other question is there a difference between micro balloons and Q-cells or is it just a brand name

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
24 Oct 2010 1:56PM
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Kiwi307,
That is good to hear. The written word is a dubious method of communication at the best of times. Too easy to misunderstand, then the Spoken word via electronics, this method is only a little better than the written. Damn! Even a direct face to face one on one conversation can be fraught with misunderstanding Given the State of today English and the way it is taught..

Believe me I have read what you and all others have said. Like I said I can only work with the products I have and make the best of a bad situation Hopefully I'll not have a situation such as Landyacht's I'd hate to have my Butt dragged across a salt Pan
The pain would be bad enough but the Embarrassment would be unbearable.

I can understand Epoxy being hard to deal with because of it's hardening time, horizontal surfaces are one thing Perpendicular???

Now for a direct question; If I Add extra hardener/part B will that set it off quicker than usual and will it weaken the seat??
Ron

I laugh because life is a joke, a bad joke at times, and if I don't laugh I will cry and MEN don't cry.

iand
QLD, 243 posts
24 Oct 2010 3:47PM
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Don't mess with the mix ratio of epoxy. If unhappy with hardening time buy a faster hardener (if it was meant to harden faster than that they would make that option). The 105 west system has at least 2, I personally prefer the slow (206 by memory)

grlynch
QLD, 208 posts
24 Oct 2010 4:29PM
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I'm pretty sure the general rule of thumb for setting time for epoxies is it will halve for every 10deg above 25deg. ie 24h cure will cure in 12h at 35deg, 6h at 45deg, and 3h at 55deg. However this will reduce the strength, (by how much depends on the specific epoxy). This is certainly the case the the encapsulating epoxies I work with, I assume the same is for fiberglass resins. We often rapid cure epoxies at 50-55deg in our lab when in a hurry. (and the other components can handle it)

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
24 Oct 2010 11:29PM
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Well then, I won't tamper with the ratios and given the average temperatures over here I reckon the drying time is going to be a prolonged business.
What the hell have I gotten myself into?? I shall struggle to my feet and battle on relentlessly
Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
25 Oct 2010 9:56AM
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Thanks guys,
OK! Given that I have Epoxy Resin, 3oz Woven cloth, CGM (Waxy texture) 2" Glass Woven Tape, Release Wax, Flowcoat and PVE. I am told that I have a total miss mach of materials. Every one so far seems to have only used Polyester for these projects. Sort of leaves me out in the cold, don't you think??? Keep in mind, everybody, that I started getting this stuff together before I had any advice. It would seem that instructions and descriptions from sales people are enough to get one in really deep, probably just below the bottom lip and the waves are getting bigger.
Just maybe I should go get a plastic deck chair and tie it on with a bit of bailing twine??
What happens if I just forge ahead with what I have?? I uploaded that pic of the test strip of epoxy on waxed CGM purely to show what I had done and for criticism. Not to hurt feelings or insult or such like. It looked fine to me (Looks can be deceiving) It was only a single CGM and Epoxy, it Laid up easily and was quite strong. I tore the whole thing to pieces, having to break the Ply first and then fold a strong crease into it. Even then it was a tough call.

So Tell me can I get away with it or do I go buy Polyester (Delay or weeks).
Ron

iand
QLD, 243 posts
25 Oct 2010 12:28PM
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First is the flowcoat polyester or epoxy(99.999% of flowcoats are polyester, it's easier to paint epoxy with 2pak in my opinion than to play with flowcoat)
With using epoxy you can use polyester gelcoat or even quality 2pak paint as the first coat(polyester flowcoat has a wax in it that comes to the surface to seal it from the air, this would need to be removed after drying to allow a good bond) then lay up the seat using your Epoxy Resin and Woven cloth(the heavier the cloth the better)
or lay up seat using your Epoxy Resin and Woven cloth then after curing paint
with using cloth you need more layers to achieve the same thickness that you need to get the rigidity in a 100% glass construction

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
25 Oct 2010 2:57PM
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Thanks iand,
So if I have it right then given that;
1 I have waxed chopped Glass Mat
2 I have cut the mat patterns to shape
3 have the woven cloth cut and placed. No resin yet.
4 Pre-Planning is not what I'm good at. I usually see and do.
I reckon I either get more Glass Cloth and run with the Epoxy or Use Polyester with what I have.
I've just done the math, 4kg Polyester Resin $46 +$15 postage. Bugger it all. I've placed another order, I was tempted to get UV hardened. Shoot I must have Composite Sup's entire range by now.
Just as well I require some epoxy for another little job.

Just keep gently nudging me onto the rails when I need it.[}:)]

Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
26 Oct 2010 11:18PM
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Gees! What Right Royal Pains in the quoit you blokes are.[}:)].
Landyacht you mentioned at some point way back that you thought I didn't have enough shape in the Capsule. I was going Leave it and strengthen out in other ways.
You so cleverly pointed a seed of doubt in my mind and it has been nagging me and festering away so now the glassing will have to wait for another day.. Gees! Thanks a bunch
I will post some pic's of the modifications in the next couple of days.
Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
27 Oct 2010 6:04PM
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Ok Lads.
This is one for the Epoxy experts Maybe you don't have to be so expert just know what the Hell I've done wrong





Now I thought what a great idea "I have a mile of epoxy resin, why not coat the CApsule Plug. Make it nice and slick and when it is cured and waxed and whatever else the final Capsule is going to look a Million Buc. Hah! Not at this rate. It would seem if there is a trap going I will blunder right into it. Bugger (The strongest I can use in this Forum and not be deleted.
Ron

Hiko
1229 posts
27 Oct 2010 4:39PM
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I confess I just dont get it Scrolling back to the seat it was a uniform
[more or less] pink colour now its got a whole lot of other colours all patchy all over it of some substance that is not epoxy resin as I know it
Run us through it Ron What and how was whatever put on that mould and what was under neath it ?
I once got asked to look at a boat where the owner had sprayed the whole thing
in tar epoxy but left the hardener out He thought the extra tins were just that he had bought too much of the stuff
Yours is a minor problem compared to his

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
27 Oct 2010 8:30PM
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Hiko, there is virtually nothing to walk through.
I initially used a glass Bog kit to strengthen and even out the ply framework. Sanded it back and then used Body Putty to finally smooth the whole thing. Now this may be the problem. I used a clear lacquer which did cause a little pealing of the putty. however I re-sanded it and after being niggled by a remark that Landyacht made. I added the fold overs. Today I thought a good use for the epoxy resin would be to coat the plug to make it smooth and slick for the Glassing job.. I am just running on a wing and a prayer and thought that a liberal coating of Wax, PVA release and then Flow Coat prior to the Polyester Resin and Glass would see a half way reasonable finish
I should also mention that since that post I decided to go in with the scraper and remove as much epoxy as possible before it went right off. Even though at that late stage the epoxy looked fairly reasonable for about 5 minutes then it pulled back again.
Only now it is a lot thinner
Ron

landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
27 Oct 2010 6:38PM
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You have a common problem that TP1 and I encountered last year.
WAX ON -------- WAX OFF
when the plug/mold is smooth and ready you rub a bit of wax on , let it dry then buff it all off. the wax is only supposed to fill the tiny little imperfections, not coat the whole thing. then the PVA mold release goes on and if it doest make an even film you know you havent buffed all the wax off. the PVA only needs to be a really thin layer, not a bucket load,
. You also need to make some small holes in the mold where you will be able to inject waterand or compressed air to get the 2 peices to separate. think about where you would put drain holes in your seat..... bottom area, foot well, and a hole in the middle of the seat back. when you start the glassing process simply fill the hole with a blob of bluetack or even soap.
TP1 and I had the same problem as you are having one day and were able to ring our supplier and she explained where we had gone wrong.

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
27 Oct 2010 9:54PM
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Thanks Landyacht,
I gather you are telling me to contact the people I got the Epoxy from?

Providing the epoxy is cured properly tomorrow I will sand it back a bit and see how that looks but that will only be on the accessible surfaces.
Ron

landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
27 Oct 2010 7:08PM
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no ron , lightly wet it to help peel that layer of epoxy off re-sand to 1200grit, wash with lots of hot soapy water and start again.
when its smooth, a drop of water should bead.
lightly WAX ON ----------WAX OFF.
really buff it off with a series of clean cloths. then a light even coat of PVA . As it dries look for spots where the film breaks up . these are the bits where there is still wax that you missed. . If so wash the pva off and buff again , if not then when the pva dries you can start to epoxy.

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
27 Oct 2010 10:30PM
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Ok Landyacht I will give that a go but I don't know is the epoxy will peel off easily. I suspect it has gripped big time. Hells Bells! I hope I don't have to start again.
Ron

aus230
WA, 1659 posts
27 Oct 2010 9:14PM
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Dam, That is going to take some fixing
remember

Seal with several coats of shellac (light sand between each coat)
several coats of release wax(longways then across so that nothing is missed)
Several coats of pva.
Should not have any trouble then, It all works well but preparation, preparation.


Cheers
aus230

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
28 Oct 2010 8:48AM
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Thanks aus230,
I may well be wrong in this (OOPS! I didn't write that!!!). I get the feeling there is a slight misunderstanding in what I have done. My purpose behind Epoxying the mold is one to strengthen, seal against moisture, make the mold slick etc. It was not and attempt to begin the Capsule itself.

Again I may----What I didn't write in the beginning[}:)]. But I figured if epoxy and Polyester had difficulty in bonding together that coatings of wax,pva and Flowcoat would allow a finish "To Die for" Well it is a description after all.
Correct me if you must, I am big enough and broad enough between the ears to take it
Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
28 Oct 2010 1:00PM
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OK! So here is what I've done this morning.
Rubbed back the Epoxy as best I can. I then sprayed it with MotorGuard Spraying putty and have now started sanding. I may have to spray the putty a couple of times. The Resin stuck to the plug like the proverbial S--t to a Blanket. Once this is done I'm not to sure where to go after that. Contemplating Shellac or standard ordinary paint. That is if the wax will do the coverage I need. I had a look at a Glassing film the other day and the bloke used Canauber wax as a release agent it worked admirably. Mind you I have the Wax, PVA and Flocoat now.
Any thoughts.
Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
28 Oct 2010 9:11PM
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Just about, all of the above
Sanded back the Spraying Putty Double coated with the Putty and sanded back again down to 400 grit Flour Paper. Made Landyacht a happy man and fitted some water hose connectors. The surface feels about as good as it is going top get.





Hopefully I can start with the wax tomorrow..... HOPEFULLY!
Talk about a production bigger than Ben Hur but I have persevered to this point but am running short on perseverance.

Ron

landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
28 Oct 2010 8:35PM
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400 grit is still way to coarse, now do 800, 1200 and some 1500 cut back paste. then all you need to use is some wax and your PVA. water drops should bead on the finished surface.
the shellac is used to seal materials that would normally stick to the resin. eg wood, foams, plaster and then allows you to make a smooth surface.
the putty and bog your using should be able to smooth down enough. the epoxy layer you put over it was probably unnessessary.
looking at your shape, those sharp edges way give you some grief due to the matt not sitting well on a kink, so be prepared to be looking out for bubbles

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
29 Oct 2010 7:57AM
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God Almighty Landyacht,
Can't you think of a little more to keep me busy It is just that I'd like to sail this thing before 2020 It would have been cheaper to have you build the bloody thing for me and easier on my back.
Ah Well! "As needs must, the Devil drives".
Thanks
Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
29 Oct 2010 12:19PM
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Landyacht Said "the epoxy layer you put over it was probably unnecessary"

Nikrum Says "Ah! Yes my son but if it had gone right just imagine the work I wouldn't have had to do and the over all finish"
Ron



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"Making a Fiber Glass Seat" started by Nikrum