Forums > Land Yacht Sailing Construction

Making a Fiber Glass Seat

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Created by Nikrum > 9 months ago, 4 Oct 2010
landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
4 Nov 2010 8:12PM
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Im still learning, what were you expecting
I suggest trimming off the edges before trying to extract it. I use a 4" grinder with an ultra thin cutting disk to trim it , with dust mast of course, then wash down after. once you have water getting in in the blow holes try tapping the mold with a rubber hammer to help in the tricky spots

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
5 Nov 2010 10:22AM
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Thanks Bud.
What a bugger of a job.
I guess a man should learn where his limitations are, though I reckon I could get it right with a lot of practice but these days I don't have the patients nor time. 100 years worth of stuff to do and only around 20 to do it in. I tend to go for the stuff that is easier or more to my liking, so the lesson has been well learned. I will post some pic's when the capsule is off the mold.
Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
5 Nov 2010 11:53PM
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Ok! As promised, I still am not happy with it but for what it is worth here it is fresh from the plug.







I need to repair a couple of nasty spots and build up the reinforcement in the turned over edge. I did put a fair bit of woven and CSM into it but it doesn't feel strong.
Remarks please.
Ron
..

landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
5 Nov 2010 9:15PM
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Thats all just technique and experience , ron.
where you have a really sharp edge at the front looks like youve got some whopper air bubbles, where there is glass visible Id say you need to work more on you wetting out skills, in this case more resin. i would be adding a few layers of glass ad resin to the front of the seat, otherwise bloody good effort for a first time

aus230
WA, 1659 posts
6 Nov 2010 12:31AM
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Good job ron, I would scrape around the edges of those rough areas and fill with a microfiber/resin mix. you wont know they where there when you finish. As paul has said you need to layer up in the areas that need some strength. (i fitted a wooden batten around the top edge/ sanded to shape and then coverer with a couple layers of glass)
cheers
aus230

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
6 Nov 2010 8:14AM
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Aw Gee Shucks Ma'am! Now you jes funnin wit me. [}:)]
You guys are punishing me for some misdemeanor I have committed recently and are just kidding me into making more of these Bloody Things. Sorry if I were to it wouldn't be on that old plug. It ain't even any good as fire wood now as I had to totally destroyed it to get the mold out of it. Those snap on fittings worked fairly well and released the back of the seat but the sides were another story. Nah! next time I will built from Ply and glass reinforce it. That Polyethylene is nasty stuff, it eats Nitrile Gloves. 12 pairs to in 4 hrs.
Anyway Off up the Mountains chasing Trout. Back tomorrow evening.
Ron

landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
7 Nov 2010 8:41PM
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This is why you build a plug from which you make a mold, then produce seats from the mold

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
8 Nov 2010 9:17AM
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Yep! I can see that Landyacht but my intent was not to create several nor hundreds of seats but 1 or preferably 2. As it was, the price just got right out of hand. In the case of a club or a heap of like interested people (I was going to say BLOKES) sharing the mold brings the expenditure within reason.

1; Out of Curiosity are there many Builder/Sailors in our Fraternity

2; How much Polyester do you use to build a seat?? 4kg doesn't go far nor does it finish up weighing 4 kg ??

Ron
p.s. Have a look at my sail thread and pass me your thoughts please.



Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
13 Nov 2010 2:38PM
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I have begun a different style of seat for Schrodinger's Cat. It is a Laminated 3Ply unit sandwiching CSM and Epoxy.
I have sat the base in place and sat on it this morning and I am amazed at just how strong the Laminate is so by the time I over lay the Back of it with Woven Roving it will be a nice unit.
As soon as the Back Rest is dry I will upload pic's of the rough laminates before I dress and final shape them.
Ron

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
14 Nov 2010 11:39AM
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Here goes nothing!
As stated elsewhere I have begun a different style seat for Schrodinger's Cat. It consists of 2 layers of 3ply and CSM in the middle I intend to over Glass it with Woven Fabric top and under sides. At this stage is is in 2 peices ready to Grass into place as as a Monocoque Unit.





It was not a difficult job and as usual Plans are in my Scone/Punkin/Nafta
Ron

kiwi307
488 posts
16 Nov 2010 11:21AM
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Nikrum, can you please do a wee test for me?
With warm soapy water wash the surface of your f'glass seat. Then tell me what happens. This is the mould surface I am interested in, ie where it's blue.
Thanks in anticipation. I will illuminate when you give a reply.

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
16 Nov 2010 9:35PM
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K1W1307,
I guess you are talking about the seat capsule for Occum's Razor/Blue seat?

Am I right? That seat is made from Polyester and Woven +CSM the Blue is Gel Cooat.


Come Back.
Ron


kiwi307
488 posts
16 Nov 2010 7:19PM
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OK, I think we may have an answer as to why you had so much trouble releasing. (But not what I thought it may be)
I was expecting you to tell me that it washed off, in which case the answer was what I earlier alluded to, ie the use of PVA, and way too much of it.
Looking closer at the pics of the seat. IF you ever decide to do more glass, the surface of your plug/mould is simply not good enough. It needed to be as smooth as a cars panels. I think you got a "mechanical lock" in the grain of the mould. Also some signs that there was not a good enough release system in place. 6 coats of wax, rub on, rub off, polish (ie 3 steps with 3 different soft cloths) at not less than 1 hour intervals is industry standard and that's with the quick hardening waxes, and PERHAPS one, yes 1 only, very light PVA release. Multiple PVA layers are much more likely to attach it to the surface than help with release. That's why I will NEVeR use the stuff. 4 Kg of resin, wow that would be a VERY light seat, around 8 kg total weight, plus about 1kg of gel for an object this size. (A 12 foot moulded windsurfer used 2kg of gel for each half, top and bottom).
The gel is patchy, this does not help with release either. Get it on quickly, and relatively thick. Allow to dry (cure) until you can write on it with a ball point pen before doing anything else. If you get the surface good and well polished the shape you had would almost jump off in the sun! As I have said before I have very rarely used air or water pressure holes, they are very rarely needed.
Yes it is frustrating stuff, but then learning to weld, or build stuff in wood is not learned properly in the very first project either.
At least you gave it a shot! For a first unit IMHO it's not too bad, and you have learned something, even if it's that you never want to do it again!

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
17 Nov 2010 9:51AM
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Well KIWI307
You nailed it. Glass over laminated ply is good and I couldn't believe how strong..
Schrodinger's Cat will have that one. I will post it shortly. I never was a patient person------well in later years anyway. Sanding and polishing gives me the willies. But with a little work I will get a seat that will hopefully give me a bit of fun. SC's Sail is ready for me to pick up now. The Carbon Fiber chassis is going to be interesting, it may be a little too flexible even with 2 different lay ups involved in it.
You are right about learning. It is my belief the the Day you Stop Learning is the Day you step off this mortal shuttle.
Ron
All is as it should be in the Universe

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
23 Nov 2010 4:18PM
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Awright! Yuz lot!

What I have done many may not agree with but no doubt I ain't the first nor will I be the last. Anyway I decided to put a coat of Blue Gel Coat down over the initial try (In the mold). I have rubbed the capsule back and then Sprayed on a goo even coat of the Gel Coat which looks pretty good although it is a Stippled Finish and no doubt a good surface for some sort of clear lacquer ???? Any takers as to what sort??

The outer surface I laid down a good coating of Flow Coat. Blue and White looks good to me.
Ron


Suggestions as to Clear Coat would be good.

kiwi307
488 posts
24 Nov 2010 9:52AM
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Now i know you said you don't like sanding/polishing etc, but the reality it's the best way with flowcoat. 600, 1200 brasso etc. Bugger all will stick effectively to flowcoat for long periods, although I have seen some neat brushables lately, high gloss but they did not have a clear. Talk to the marine spray paint guys, they may have a favorite product. Good luck, and let us know what you come up with!

Nikrum
TAS, 1972 posts
24 Nov 2010 9:06PM
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I don't know what is going on here but the products I've been getting are being touted differently here, for instance the Gel coat is said to be un-waxed and the Flow Coat is waxed. I laid down a coat of FC on the outside surface of the capsule after hitting it with the sander and it seems to have taken nicely.. Flow CoatWhy that name it is thick and stays where it was put. G C on the other hand I put down a good thick coat over the initial stuff I laid down in the mold. It too looks pretty good..
I am tempted to give it a light sand and go over it with a Clear 2 pack. Estapol maybe a wash over with White Spirit to lift the wax Anyway I will maybe get a couple of years out of it before I can no longer get into the damned thing
Ron



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"Making a Fiber Glass Seat" started by Nikrum