Newcomer:
If you have not done much land sailing, and this is your first build, I would strongly suggest you follow the plans for the Lake Lefroy Mini. It was relatively easy build even for a novice builder like myself. I think it is the best place to start...there is no need to re-invent the wheel. Once you are done, you can add a side seat for your kids. If you start to make it too complicated, you will have problems.
I am working out how to put skis on my mini so I can use it on the frozen lake this winter.
The ski axles work fine I have two minis with them now Well tested
I use two, one on top of the other One ski is a bit soft
Just make sure the binding screw holes dont coincide with a high stress point
[outer edge of frame]
I use two 10mm bolts to hold each side on
Here is one of the ski axle minis
The underside exploded view The seat back is also supported by an old ski
The axles are held to the frame by two 10mm bolts welded to frame and flange nuts The channel cross member was cut from 75x50x 3mm box section
The spine is 52x2mm exhaust tube
Wheel attachment The stubs are bolted to the ski axles with 5 degrees of layover
The flex in the skis gives a few more degrees
Hiko:
Like detachable seat back and use of ski for aft block hangar. Is there much working of the back's side with the sides of seat?
I have a small (VW Lupo) and the take off seat back would help.
The exhaust pipe 52 x 2mm vs Galvanized pipe nominal 60 x 2 mm of plans.
In NZ what are the uses, if available of 60mmx2mm?
I suspect the pipe in the plans is not the 2" water pipe I visualized.
Reference; http://www.supplyritesteel.com/pipesize_conversiontables.html
2mm is about 14 gauge if I understand correctly.
Mike 612
Yes there is some working there as you would expect with the load coming on and off the seat but its fine no issues with that
The 52x 2 MM exhaust tube is as light as I have heard anyone use but again have had no issues with it and it has been used by some large people
I have not put a strap under the mast step either but would if I built another one just as an extra
I used the exhaust tube as it was readily available to me from the local exhaust shop
Some people have used tubes from old trampolines not sure of those sizes
Similarly the skis are readily available here on the second hand market at giveaway prices
14 guage ? I have long stopped using all those medieval measurements and adopted the metric system but lets see 1/14 of 25.4 = 1.81MM Am I right?
I think 14 guage would be too light but if the tube was bigger in diameter it might be OK but wouldnt be as easy to weld. These yachts are supposed to be home builds but anything goes as long as its fun
Yeah! 2mm is around 3/32" I wouldn't go under that but a little over won't hurt as it is a little stronger and not a lot heavier..
]
Ah! What do you want a front Brake for? I think you will find once you have a little experience you'll not have a use for it, I would think a rear Hand Brake would be the GO.
I have two machines 1 about Mini Size and a Class5, neither have brakes as I believe they will cause more problems than enough. You will also find that your first forays into the sport will be a bit on the sedate side. Learn to Walk before you start running[}:)] That way you will be less likely to fall on your face.
Enjoy the sport and keep in mind that there is no such thing as a stupid question. There is only lack of knowledge or doubt, both can be cured on this forum.
Ron
The gybe sail has arrived but I still search for a suitable mast and a boom. I would like to ask you, what do you think about making a boom from an aluminium tube, hot bend to copy the shape of the bottom edge of the sail? How strong the tube should be?
Many thanks
I just straighten out old windsurfer booms.
The red bits in the vice are medium wall water pipe split length ways.
They are painted red so I can find them in all my junk.
Mark a texta line full length (this one only has 2 blue marks and I found full length gives you a better idea how much to bend it, so you only have to go along it once) along the top of the boom rail while it is lying flat on your bench and bend in 25mm increments till this texta line is straight.
I found it best to leave the foam on until it's straight and then I use a hot air gun to soften the foam and peel it off with a knife. A clean with thinners and you have an anodised boom.
Another stupid question - why is a wheel brake commonly placed on the front wheel? Is it because of simplicity or efficiency?
Brakes on the front wheel of landyachts might be common on commercially available landyachts- but as there is not much weight on the front wheel- they will not work well. Usually locking up and skidding.
The best way to stop a landyacht is to let the sheet rope out and turn directly into the wind.
Brakes on landyachts are best only used as parking brakes or at very low speed.
The lake lefroy mini landyachts have a hand operated brake lever mounted on the right hand axle which just drags on the ground. Sometimes it might even slow you down!
(Its really only a parking brake- and so you can tell any curious observers it has brakes to keep them happy)
My Lefroy mini's both have brakes fitted- but they dont get used as they either tear up the lake bed, tear up the grass oval, or lift the right hand wheel if I am on a hard surface.
One of the blokes on this forum built a Lefroy mini- but altered the hand operated brake so that it had a piece of rubber being pushed onto the ground- under the centre of the landyacht- I dont know how well it worked- but it looked good!
I am not sure who it belonged to- but I am sure someone else will point us in the right direction before long.
Club 88 landyachts as used by the Sandgropers landyacht club have a simple lever each side of their landyacht which rubs on each rear tyre - they dont want to damage the soft limestone floor of their sailing ground.
This type of brake can also be used to help with turning. It is also most likely the more effective type of brake system as you are slowing both rear wheels- and they have much more traction than the single front wheel.
Stephen.
The post by SN is I think the best I have seen on landyacht brakes
perhaps it should be made into a sticky
A lot of us [me included ]start off with brakes any future yachts we dont bother
Yeh Hiko I agree with you.
Great advice Stephen.
Paul posted this a while back and shows the rear brake setup, albeit it in a bit different environment.
I think the Fisly regs only require brakes on Class 3 and bigger. My build now has a vestigial bracket from where I added a brake and removed it again before the end of the build. Turn into wind, and swing the boom forward works great.... I can even reverse park now
Cheers Col
If your'e not going to be around.......
Try being a square!
I just couldn't help myself(though some say i am beyond help!
Just another idea for parking brake(s)... The seat tub on the Mojave Magic is too tall for me to put my foot on the ground when I'm laying in it, so I added these clamp on brakes to help hold, park, etc the beastie at slow/stopped speeds
.
Pretty basic tire rubbing, but easy to reach with whichever hand is available...
Happy building, and Merry Christmas to all !!!!
DY ,
Now I am Totally convinced you are AR!! Damn! Are you going to sleep in that thing?? Vinyl Covers Forsooth..[}:)]
Ron
Sounds like it would "Freeze the Ball of of a Brass Monkey". (Do you know the origins of that expression??
Ron
Brass monkey(made of brass) made to hold iron cannon balls. brass shrinks more in cold weather. not enough room for iron balls ergo they fall off