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Wheel fairings

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Created by veladaterra > 9 months ago, 23 Jun 2010
veladaterra
84 posts
23 Jun 2010 2:22AM
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Hi there, yesterday I started to build a model to get a fibreglass mould for wheel fairings (rear) for my Seagull mc2. It would be easier to buy a couple of ultralight aircraft fairing (pretty cheap, about 50 euros each) but they are too small for wheelbarrow wheels. The fairing is going to be symmetrical.








Very lazy in these days. First I thought of filling the cells with polyurethane foam, but it's not so easy to work and trim when hard. Flat parts are easy to cover with thin plywood, more trouble with the round parts on the top and on the leading edge. I don't want to build too much ribs to fasten the plywood.

Any advice? Wire mesh? Plenty of ribs? Thank you.

Cheers - Enrico

Hiko
1229 posts
23 Jun 2010 8:22AM
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Hi Enrico
Years ago I was half shares in an ultralight aircraft with a friend [a Vector]
We fitted wheel fairings to it by making a mould off an existing fairing we found in the hangar and making our own
One day one of them on one side was left off for some reason that I forget now and we found that the aircraft pulled away from that side! The fairings were creating more drag! We took them off
We decided at the time that the slot where the wheel went into the fairing was the problem so I think that particular attention should be paid to that area
Cheers Hiko

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
23 Jun 2010 10:20AM
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Perhaps try white expanded foam, the stuff that fridges come packed in? You can get large amounts at places like Clark Rubber. The only caveat is that you must use epoxy, rather than polyester when making a mould.

landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
23 Jun 2010 8:45PM
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if using white foam , i covered th wheel with scraps of foam, glued with the spray on polyuerathane foam then carved and sanded the shape. then a layer of gyprock , or plasterboard topping coat, which sands very easily( easier and better finish than plaster) and smooth, a layer of varnish , then the glass over the top

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
23 Jun 2010 10:01PM
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Hiko said...
We decided at the time that the slot where the wheel went into the fairing was the problem so I think that particular attention should be paid to that area
Cheers Hiko


I remember a model airplane nut who did similar testing, and he came to a similar conclusion... he found that the critical part was the distance between the fairing and the 'axle'. The axles in this case are plate spring steel, which run vertically parallel to the wheel before bending inwards and attaching to the fuselage.

By adding and removing washers to change the gap he found a massive difference in drag. He eventually found the best solution was no fairings, with a certain gap between the 'axle' and the naked wheel.

Not sure if it applies here though... you may find that adding golf ball dimples to the fairing might help create a better boundary layer, similar to how Mythbusters tested dimples on a car.



(fast forward to 2:00 or so)

veladaterra
84 posts
24 Jun 2010 5:09PM
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The shelf for my landyacht models is almost done





Both sides completed, it needs only minor trimming. I'll go on trying with white foam, thank you for your suggestion.

I don't believe fairings will be effective on a very short axle, but they're very cool and I want to try my skills on fibreglass (never used before).

The "golfball" car is great!

Cheers - Enrico



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