Hi Everyone Wheels As i live in Ireland Fallshaw Wheels are not available .So after many hours surfing the internet the closet thing to Fallshaws i can find are Peter Lynn Standard Buggy Wheel www.powerkiteshop.com/accessories/peterlynnwheelstandard.htm Has anyone any Experience or used this type of wheel on their land yacht .This would my first big hurdle in the overall design of a land yacht if they will do the job .Next problem Axles .Again i have looked for 20mm stub axles no joy no one seems to make them in Uk or Ireland. I am looking for easy way to connect wheels to the chassis .Thanks Gerald
Have you had a look through this article? www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/Construction/Build-a-Landyacht-Lake-Lefroy-Mini-Yacht/ . Gives lots of alternatives for axles in the design. 20mm stub axles = M20 bolts with about 100mm of un-threaded shank. As for those wheels they'll do the job easily. I found a few other suppliers with a lot of googling and got the price to under £30 each.
These were £4.95 each off EBay...but I've had to fit hubs, spacers, and decent bearings, so now £11 each and a lot of hard work/machining time + I've had to go Imperial to make it all work. But that fits my budget
There are odd bits and pieces that are hard to find in the UK/Eire but theres alternatives out there somewhere
Cheers Col
Hi Gerald Welcome to the forum
Those wheels look fine to me
They have 20mm bearings and they mention they will suit a 20mm bolt so you can run with that
Weld the bolt head to your axle and hold the wheel on with a nut and washer
You could also use 20mm shaft welded to your axle and hold the wheel on with a
pin and washer
Mine are held on with a 8mm setscrew tapped into the end of the shaft with a washer Many different ways of doing it
Yo Ger',
Earlier there was a great deal of discussion on the Why's and Wherefores of wheels.
The general impression of why Fallshaw? They are a high quality plastic wheel!
Having said that, another reason for using them is. Here in Aus' where some of these guys sail it can get up to better than 40deg'C and certain plastics will soften and warp under those conditions.. I doubt that it would be much fun having a tire come adrift at 80kph Could cause you to have something to worry about.
I doubt strongly that you guys up in that neck of the woods would have to worry about that way.
I have used the cheap Chinese versions and don't have a lot of confidence in them as I hit a stone side ways and took a 2" piece out of the rim of one. Again Cold can be a problem as the plastic can become a little more brittle under those conditions as well. Care must be taken when using any wheel.
The Cheap Chinese ones did not have quality bearings in them so I re machined them to suit available quality Bearings with Locking Ring Groove in them this helped to do as the Flange does on the cheaper version though I believe that you can purchase a High Quality Bearing with Flanged Housing.
It pays when fitting your bearings to have a spacer between the bearings and a sliding fit over the axle, when tightening up the Wheel nut the wheel should turn freely not allowing the bearing inner to move. I also cut groves into the Wheel Nut (Constellations) and Drilling a Hole through for a Split Pin. You also should hunt the Hardware Stores for a Pair of PVC End Caps to cover the lot as it is an OH & S thing, Axle stubs can rip your leg.
As I am retired I have had a little extra cash and since gone over to Alloy Rims
peter lynns with a 20mm bolt will be fine.
we dont even use a high tensile bolt, Ive only come across 1 case of the axle bending, and the yacht and pilot did some serious airborne ballet to make that happen
welcome to the joy of building your own
Hi .looks like peter lynns have won the day .I have a method of connecting the wheels to the chassis using Stud Connecters See Photo they come in a variety of sizes M20 Thread size. 60mm long . 30MM Face to Face. This would fit inside 35x35x2 Square Tube part of rear axle. 
I'd be worried about having the thread right where the bending moment is strongest... If a bolt is going to break it will be at the thread (stress riser).
you could always drill out the first 20 - 30 mm of thread giving a good strong point minus the thread shear point!
Good Point I never thought about that one .Maybe i will have to rethink about the stress created at this point. I wonder how the design peter lynn kite buggies as the wheels on their buggy is bolted on to the axle .Gerald
Ger',
Kite Buggies have a different Dynamic involved in their operation. Where I you I would stick with the tried and true.. It is your build though but a Long bolt with a heavy Washer welded to it as a Stopper for the Inner Race, with a Small OD Shim washer as a clearance spacer. Weld (Welding is one method) the excess Bolt into the Axle using the Heavy washer as a location point, Keep this in mind any cutting or threading will interfere with the overall dia and cause possible week points in the bolts flexing. Using a nut and Split Pin to retain the Wheel is probably the simplest and safest way. A bent axle is far safer than a Busted one.
Ron
its only a mini, that cnnector will be brilliant , if you are worried about shearing then waynes comment about drilling ,even 10mm out would be a great fix, but i suspect not neccessary
Hi Everyone As you can see from the photos I have acquired two sets of axles ,Short stub ones are 25 mm Dia around 140 length .Next set are 20mm Dia. 300 mm length. These are Front end Spindles from Honda CB400 Motor Bike. They are hollow in the middle saying that they should be strong enough .Honda Spindles will be able to be modified for Peter lynn buggy wheels. I am still moving at slow pace summer will be over before I get anything finished 
