I have been a avid landsailer for the past 8 years sailing sirroco boats mostly. We make the trek to ivanpah
dry lake twice a year to meet with freinds for a weeks worth of landsailing. I also have a few venues in the local
area where I can sail. I have been using factory made windsurfing sails made by aerotech that preform pretty
well to a degree. I have redesigned a few sprints to fit my personal preferences which turned out pretty well.
I am now thinking about recuting windsurfing sails to preform a little better on the yachts that I have. I have
good access to a large selection of used windsurfing sails as I live 80 miles from the windsurfing capital of the
world (columbia river gorge/hood river oregon). I have been looking for used sewing machines to resew the sails
but haven't had to much luck. All of your forums for recutting sails are in metric which I don't do well with at
my age, (66 in july). Plus memory is starting become a small problem. Enough rambling, I need to know all the
supplies needed to recut sails, tools included! Also need a inch layout for recutting sails, NOT METRIC. All help
with this project would be great.
Select to expand quoteWindcrazy said..I have been a avid landsailer for the past 8 years sailing sirroco boats mostly. We make the trek to ivanpah
dry lake twice a year to meet with freinds for a weeks worth of landsailing. I also have a few venues in the local
area where I can sail. I have been using factory made windsurfing sails made by aerotech that preform pretty
well to a degree. I have redesigned a few sprints to fit my personal preferences which turned out pretty well.
I am now thinking about recuting windsurfing sails to preform a little better on the yachts that I have. I have
good access to a large selection of used windsurfing sails as I live 80 miles from the windsurfing capital of the
world (columbia river gorge/hood river oregon). I have been looking for used sewing machines to resew the sails
but haven't had to much luck. All of your forums for recutting sails are in metric which I don't do well with at
my age, (66 in july). Plus memory is starting become a small problem. Enough rambling, I need to know all the
supplies needed to recut sails, tools included! Also need a inch layout for recutting sails, NOT METRIC. All help
with this project would be great.
Hi Windcrazy, Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of knowledgeable people here. I had always wanted to try one of these things, and the plans for the LLmini were easy to follow and build. Don't let that metric thing bother you. Simply multiply millimeters by 0.04 and and you'll be close enough to inches. Example 50mm x 0.04 = 2 inches. You should only need to plot several points of the luff curve along the leading edge of the sail. Then use a long flexible batten to draw a mark connecting the points, and cut with sissors. The mast pocket can then be sewed back along the new luff curve. Most any sewing machine will work as long as you use heavy duty needles. You may go through several needles though. I used heavy dacron thread and had no problems. Good luck.
Went on the sail recuting forum and the plan pictures with measurements won't come up, can't even get pics on how to build a lefroy mini. It worked before, what changed?
1" = 25.4 mm divide mm by 25.4 to arrive at inches 50/25.4=1.97 in
I work in both , you can make some pretty big stuff when you get it the wrong way round LOL
windcrazy go to landyachts gallery page the pics are all in there,
How do I get the pics of the template for recutting windsurfing sails. They don't come up on the forum
like they use to.
Thanks
I asked Laurie for you. He manages the forum hassles.
He has now sorted out the problem for us and all the info you need should be able to be viewed now.
Click the link below.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/Sail-making/How-I-recut-sailboard-sails-to-suit-landyachts/
Thanks for that Laurie.
Chook
Thanks a bunch to everyone for your help. Got just what I needed, now I have to find the tools to screwup/
recut my first sail. It's a aerotech 6.2 2008 future sail that I ran on my sirroco twin for a couple of years. First purcahase a used heavy duty sewing machine and a heavy duty seam ripper!!
Thanks Again for your help
The wind gods must be looking over me today. The wife told me that the old heavy duty kenmore
sewing machine was still in the attic,(WAHOO). One less thing to do next week, now to find that heavy duty seam
ripper, any thoughts on that subject??
"Landyacht" is the guru and got me sorted out with the sails.
To unpick takes ages and is "very" mundane. It took me 4 hours to unpick the mast pocket of my first sail.
So.......
By pulling your sail over a table and then clamping one end of the seam that you want to unpick, just pull the sail really firmly to the opposite end and then clamp it tight as well, you can then use a "Stanley" knife. The ones with the retractable blade, or snap blade knife with the blade sticking out a bit further than normal.
By running the blade along REALLY FLATwhile pulling up/away, on the seam or edge bindings as you slice (just being careful to only cut the threads) you can strip a sail in less than 20 mins.
Landyacht rounds off the tip of his blades and re-hones them to within an inch of their life to get a good cut.
He has a cutting edge fetish though.
I'm a lazy bugger and settle for the factory blades.
Don't go overboard with the sewing machine.
With needles for sewing denim or light leather and cotton denim thread, I made my first 8 sails with my wife's domestic sewing machine.
Just ease the needle through by the hand wheel through the heavy stitching. I did wreck a few needles so buy a few packets.
The really heavy webbing bits I simply did by hand.
Don't be afraid to have a go, it's very satisfying when you sail past someone with a sail you have recut yourself.
Good luck and get to it!!!!!
Select to expand quoteChook2 said..
"Landyacht" is the guru and got me sorted out with the sails.
To unpick takes ages and is "very" mundane. It took me 4 hours to unpick the mast pocket of my first sail.
So.......
By pulling your sail over a table and then clamping one end of the seam that you want to unpick, just pull the sail really firmly to the opposite end and then clamp it tight as well, you can then use a "Stanley" knife. The ones with the retractable blade, or snap blade knife with the blade sticking out a bit further than normal.
By running the blade along REALLY FLATwhile pulling up/away, on the seam or edge bindings as you slice (just being careful to only cut the threads) you can strip a sail in less than 20 mins.
Landyacht rounds off the tip of his blades and re-hones them to within an inch of their life to get a good cut.
He has a cutting edge fetish though.
I'm a lazy bugger and settle for the factory blades.
Don't go overboard with the sewing machine.
With needles for sewing denim or light leather and cotton denim thread, I made my first 8 sails with my wife's domestic sewing machine.
Just ease the needle through by the hand wheel through the heavy stitching. I did wreck a few needles so buy a few packets.
The really heavy webbing bits I simply did by hand.
Don't be afraid to have a go, it's very satisfying when you sail past someone with a sail you have recut yourself.
Good luck and get to it!!!!!
my typing is a bit sorry tonight after a slip whilst touching up a little broad hatchet. main typing tingertip is resting for a few days
I use a size 36 thread and a 140 sharp needle( those are imperial size) on a singer 20U.
realistically you want a machine that can zig zag ,about 6mm(1/4").
if straight stiching, youd want 2 or 3neat rows to relpace 2 rows of zig zag with a stitch 1/8"long
What is the 2 sided sticky tape called? I think I saw it on one of the post on the forum but can't remember where.
Old age is hell sometimes. I dug out the old sewing machine but haven't done any sewing with it yet. Still looking
for a CHEAP used heavy duty. Unpicked my sail last night, took about 1 1/2 hours but all went well. Recut the sail
using the instructions that paul had on forum. Had a few problems but nothing major so far. Will post pics as soon
as possible.
the double sided tape is called double sided tape sailmakers( in aus)use a brand called captains tape which has a reinforced layer ,in 12mm , but there is a thinner variety for batten pockets etc. that brand is stylus tape. Im presently using a 50mm wide roll of stylus carpet layers tape. and I slice it up into 2x12mm strips plus 1x20mm strip for the big seams I just ring the roll with a stanley knife as I go . it cost $20 for a 50m roll.
the first stuff I used was from a cheap discount store, and cost $1 for a 10m x25mm roll. I Tried it out and went back and bought for $20,the entire stock . it lasted 3 years. but they couldnt get any more
We have a product here called seamstick, It has a acrylic base adhesive on a mylar carrier. Sizes 1/4" 3/8" 1/2"
in a 300 Foot roll for $6.00 in 3/8" width. Landyacht, could you convert needle & thread size and type for me as I have
a sail materials supplier here in the USA that I'm getting my supplies from.
Thanks Again
those were non metric sizes.size 36 thread. its the same thickness aswhat most windsurfer sails are sewn with. sailmakers stuff is usually UV treated and feels tougher. my needles are a size 140 ,which is a size that relates to what I dont know. A denim needle is usually a size 90
Here you go Windcrazy.
www.upholster.com/upholstery-forum/index.php?topic=6371.0;wap2
I now use a V92 polyester/cotton UV treated thread on 2250mtr cones, with a #20 singer needle.
On thicker material I use a #23 needle and this is also easier on my eyes to thread.
Ebay for my needles out of the US. in mixed size lots of 100 needles (10 x packs of 10 needles) about $27.00 +freight.
Thread from "Upulstory Distributers", 18 Hazelhurst St Perth for $27.50 a cone + freight.
I'm now running a "Sailrite" LSZ-1, clone sewing machine with a "Monster balance wheel". (which cuts the speed by half and increases the stitching power, it can also be cranked by hand without any electrical power.)
All the best, Chook
Paul, I have been using a thicker polyester sewing thread than the thin cotton or polyester that is used for dressmaking, curtains etc. It is Gutermann brand and a bit expensive at about $3 for a spool of 33 yards from a sewing centre shop. There is no indication to what size/thickness on the spool. It's quite strong but 33 yards doesn't go far. Most of the thinner thread has 110 yards on the same size spool.
I'm sure I'm paying thru the nose for it and have a trailer load of empty spools after sewing shadecloth blinds etc over the years. Is there a better source than this stuff? We had a local sailmaker years ago but he pulled out and the only canvass worker is always too busy to help me.
Do you remember Roy and Bobby Justice from Kal years ago, he would have had all the knowledge but I think he moved to the city years ago...W
How nice would one of these be????
Singer Sailmakers 47KSV10 with ZIG ZAG and a mechanical puller. EXTREMELY RUGGED.
The head is 6 feet long!! and there is 4 feet free space to the needle. 
I don't have $4,500 plus freight out of Queensland, to spend though.... and I wouldn't live very long if the bride found out.
It will zig zag through 12mm, (1/2") of material.
Fired up the sewing machine today and seemed to do well. Using 110/18 leather needles with Gutermann 100% polyester 30m.
I sewed thru 4 layer luff material with 1 layer of heavy monofilm with no problem. Ordered some seam tape today 3/8" x 50 yds.
Will get pics up as soon as I get room in the garage. The weather is is to nasty for out side stuff.
With that setup Windcrazy, you will be able to do 95% of what you need and just hand stich the really thick strap bits etc.
Just grab a couple of heavy needles from your local canvas guy and super glue the mounting end into a wooden "cabinet door knob". (Grab two in case you manage to break one.) Mine rolled off my bench and snapped the tip off it.
By using 2 threads you can really do a lot of the hard stuff quickly. Oh and an awl helps to pre make the holes for hand stitching.
Way to go!!! You are up and running now.
Make sure you post the pics of your creation.
Here is some pics of my cut sail I'm working on. To me it looks like there is to much curve in the luff edge of the sail. Went by
pauls measurements on the forum. Coverted mm to inches using the formula you gave ne on the forum here. Got my seam tape
today 3/8" wide. Will use two strips wide (3/4") to sew the luff back on. Chook2, how do you hand sew with 2 threads? I
have enough trouble with 1. Let me know what you think. I already have 2 windsurf sails with a luff curve that is alot less
than the one I'm recutting. (HELP)
What a nice looking sail Windcrazy.
I have always used Paul?s template to recut, but the mast stiffness must alter this a bit.
I've seen pics of a mast tip tensioned with rope to the outward end of the boom (when in its position) and then back to the base of the mast and laid over the sail, to work out the luff, for a particular mast.
Some sail reinforcement at the bottom eyelet is required on the sail, as they cop a lot of strain here.
I don't use tape to refit the mast pocket.
I fold the pocket over, back together and run a line of straight stich along it the distance the sail will slip in between the 2 layers. Usually about 5/8" to 3/4" in from the edges. (Don't sew where there will be battens of course.)
This makes it easy to resew while inserting the sail, as you just push the sail hard into the pocket, slightly tension the pocket as you sew your first row of zig zag and it's perfectly aligned. A second row finishes it off.
I never finish off the mast pocket at the bottom till I've sewn the sail and have the last yard or so to go. This allows me to get the length right. I reckon the tape would save me this problem though.
Select to expand quoteChook2, how do you hand sew with 2 threads?
As for hand sewing with 2 threads. The needle used is for an industrial sewing machine glued into a wooden cabinet knob, so the eye is down near the point. Push the needle and thread through your material and retract it just far enough to give you a loop on the back side and this is where the second thread is fed through the loop. Then fully retract the needle.
So a needle thread and a separate backing thread. By melting the ends of the thread it will stop it fraying while feeding it through the loops all the time. Tension the stitches as you go and it's really neat. I use two bits of wood in my bench vice to clamp what I'm sewing.
After battling tough "EZZY" windsurfer sails webbing one day, by hand. "sn" rang me and casually said "why don't I just rivet it".
He could have rung me 2 hours before and saved me all the heart ache.
I hope Paul can add his magic here as well.
Chook
I would fit that pocket back just as it is. you can always unpick and flatten it more , but i dont think it will need it. with it being all monofilm, you will want to have double sided tape on both sides of the seam , so chooks mention of sewing the pocket edges together first is a good one
Select to expand quoteChook2 said..
After battling tough "EZZY" windsurfer sails webbing one day, by hand. "sn" rang me and casually said "why don't I just rivet it".
He could have rung me 2 hours before and saved me all the heart ache. Chook
I remember that phone call.... 10 seconds of silence while it sunk in, followed by "you b#%&$@d" 
made my day that did
stephen
Here we go again. Made a new template today and recut my sail again, little to much curve in the luff. I thought while I was
doing that I would compare it to the current luff curve on the sails I'm using on my mini landsailer. Turns out they are the same,
pics included. When we run these sails on the mini, we preload the mast like you would on a wind surfer setup and use a
curved boom at the bttm of the sail. It's the same setup they use on the sirocco landsailers. I have built 2 sprints to my
own specs and have a twin also that I purchased some years ago. I can purchase newer sails but they do not preform
well at higher speeeds, so I am trying to recut for better preformance. It's my semi-retired hobby and it keeps me out of the
wife's hair. Pic #2 is how far my first cut was off. Pics #1 #3 are my new cuts and it is laying on top of my 4.2 that I use
on my mini, I also have a 5.2 for lighter air. I carry alot of balast at the present time 202 lbs. Thanks for all the help.
Is it something that I said or is everybody thinking? I useally get some kind of reply the next day.
Select to expand quoteWindcrazy said..
Is it something that I said or is everybody thinking? I useally get some kind of reply the next day.
yeah ,were home , great days sailing on a long weekend ,followed by a good roaring fire in the clubhouse, .
My wife akes off interstate regularly with the computer so a no answer from me happens regularly.
usually if you about to make a BIG mistake , we will answer quick.
the first time i tried one of the more complicated recuts using a luff panel,like this
I didnt draw the whole job on the floor full size, I went with my instincts. that afternoon there was a complete sail ( in Bits ) in the wheely bin.
SO yes we do stuff up occasionaly
Select to expand quoteWindcrazy said..
Is it something that I said or is everybody thinking? I useally get some kind of reply the next day.
yeah ,were home , great days sailing on a long weekend ,followed by a good roaring fire in the clubhouse, .
My wife akes off interstate regularly with the computer so a no answer from me happens regularly.
usually if you about to make a BIG mistake , we will answer quick.
the first time i tried one of the more complicated recuts using a luff panel,like this
I didnt draw the whole job on the floor full size, I went with my instincts. that afternoon there was a complete sail ( in Bits ) in the wheely bin.
SO yes we do stuff up occasionaly
Try to make me feel bad. Do you think my current sails would preform better at higher speeds with a carbon fibre mast?
Right now I am using fiberglass 400/17 430/19.
