Miller and I have been sussing out this area for a few weeks now.
Its so hard to calculate the right swell and tide to get it SUPable.
It was forecasted to be strong offshore winds so that was just enough to put us off the thought of SUPing.
The wind was 15 to 20 knots. Swell was 2m Rotto and about 0.8m Cott. Tide was 0.6m.
I drove from City Beach to Mullaz and every where was either blown out, crowded, closing out or too rocky or shallow.
I sent Miller an sms with the bad news so we decided to go look at this spot we have been talking about.
At first sight we see hardly any rocks and not many closeouts. The wind was still strong easterlies but the inside was protected a little from the cliffs and sand dunes. Plus there was not a single surfer out!
We paddle out there to the first left. A great little wave breaking chest to shoulder high. Sucky take offs from the boil and peeling nicely into a sandy channel.
I was on my Starboard 11'2 and would have to say that this was the best session I have ever had on it so far. From riding the 9'0 the last few weeks then jumping on the 11'2 at first was hard to get back into the soul of the board but once dialed I scored some sick cover ups, nice cutbacks and some fast down the line trimming... and alot of wipeouts!
I started riding the 11'2 like it was the 9'0. It amazed me how slotted you can get this big board. It really does have that longboard feel but dont let that scare you. The 11'2 still rips. I was just looking at the tail of the board and noticed how similar it was to the shape of my past shortboards. My favourate board for sure.
Even though paddling against a 20 knot offshore breeze was super hard, the 11'2 still wanted to get me onto the wave, then having enough speed and drive to race down the line and into a round house cutback.
Miller was charging! I have just about lost my voice from hooting so much. He would paddle into anything, line up the wave and ride it through to the channel, riding the nose!
But wait, thats not all! Just another 50 metres north was a second left! It broke just as good as first left but was a bit more of a fat take off which reformed to yet another sandy channel. Not as fun as first left but still fun.
But wait, thats still not all! Another 100 metres north was a potential right! It picked up more swell but the tide was way too low for this break as there was a nasty ledge and a few exposed rocks just waiting to destroy our boards or even us. We decide its better we try potential right for another day.
So back we went to first left, scoring lighter winds and some more sick rides and plenty of hooting
well said...
finding new breaks and scoring is gold ...especially when u got the place to yar selves .....
lookin forward to a slightly bigger swell with less wind ....
i can see this place becoming a regular, to combat the crowds....
Go to bed single boy. Have you finished watching action movies, eating stake and scratching your balls? YOU SUCK!!!
Ps dont forget to wake up at 2am to feed the baby, walk the dogs twice a day and go to work... NOT!
Count me in for a lago sometime next week after work
The closest I'm getting to going out at the moment is reading about from you guys. Hopefully I might get out this weekend if you guys are free and keen for a paddle let me know. It'd be good to catch up.
Yeah Im keen Hawkie.
Gotta work Saturday morning.
Keen for the arvo?
Gonna check first left again.
Id like to see how it breaks on a smaller swell and lighter winds
I'm keen for the arvo. In fact I'm more than keen, I'm getting those shakes due to withdrawal. I'll give you a call. What time do you reckon sat arvo?
I gotta work in the morning.
Maybe 2-3-4pm??? Depends on the wind.
Miller is keen too.
Keep in touch
A couple of kids on boogers. The only people Ive seen out there.
It was about chest to shoulder high.
Yes its the left.
Look at the last wave and see the white water left by the previous wave.
