I dream of the day i can ride a wave like this , going to Hawaii next year so hopefully ill get my chance.
I don't think I'll ever have the ability or the nerve to ride that. Well I might have the ability but it seems big waves will always scare the shiatsu out of me.
edit: The scale some people use on here, that wave must be at least 4ft
i have no doubts you would have a go. but here is the tricky part one would have ask them selfs - do you go down the line, play it safe out on the shoulder and make sure you get off it in one piece or charge it with big turns and hooks in the meat of the thing and chance get pole axed. two very different approaches
cheers
I think i'm with most people, i'd head for the shoulder and see if I survive first or maybe I'd take some photos and watch instead.
I'm guessing many of us would sit on the shoulder and try to catch one of the smaller sets ... and miss them.
We'd work in further and further, then a set wave would come and cream us. You dive down deep and take a dragging on the first wave. Maybe survive a few more without too much drama.
Eventually you'd surface just a touch too soon and have that terminal feeling as you're board sucks you backwards over the falls.