You would think I must have collected all of these over a numerous months - nup - they are just from a single session...
I think if you're going to SUP then you just have to learn to love your inner kook. No matter how good a rider you are, you are always going to end up looking clumsy and hopeless for some time during a session.
At first you go out and confidently paddle over the white water and drop into gleaming green faces and duck your head into close out barrels.
But then you get caught a little late on take off and the wave drops you on your arse, or you get caught on the inside and hang onto your baord and get hit in the head by every wave.
After 2-3-4 hours your body is saying give up but you crawl back on your board then push yourself wearily to your feet with your arse up in the air like a 2 year old toddler. Once you are standing straight and get a few strokes in you just have to go out for one last perfect wave to ride to the beach. Your knees are battered from clambering onto the aircraft carrier you trying to surf on. Your head is full of salt water. Your eyes are red but the waves are there and it is so easy to go for just one more.
