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Need some big (and bumpy) wave advice...

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Created by Crash Landing > 9 months ago, 6 Apr 2010
Crash Landing
NSW, 1173 posts
6 Apr 2010 6:57PM
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Hello! After a few days of half decent waves here in Sydney I've decided to ask a question for the good SUPers out there. Hopefully you can help!

I'm really struggling holding a rail on bigger waves - they were in the range of 6 to 8 foot faces. They were bumpy (Whiterock and Long Reef Bombie) and glassy (Manly yesterday) so I can't blame it entirely on wave quality. I seem to take off ok, set up for a bottom turn, carve into the turn and lean a little on the paddle, then WIPEOUT!! Fins/rails have lost all grip and I end up sliding down the face or just falling off. It feels like a spin-out on a windsurfer...

I'm riding the 9'6" Naish with Simon Anderson quad fins - medium on the back large on the front. Should I go bigger fins in big waves or is it a problem with a fish not pintail? Or is it just technique? Do I need to get more of the rail engaged by leaning forward more?

Is this impossible to answer?! Any help gratefully received!

Daneli
QLD, 1538 posts
7 Apr 2010 7:52AM
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Hi Crash Landing,

I'm not that experienced but had a similar problem on a Naish with the fins sliding out. Dogman suggested to put the fin right back in the box and this has helped a fair bit. I have also learnt to more around on the board alot more than when I am just prone surfing.

I'm sure someone else will have some suggestions.

Cheers

Shane

Simondo
VIC, 8020 posts
7 Apr 2010 8:54AM
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SUP's are big and wide. Try getting your back foot right over onto the rail.... On your back-hand, the heel should be close to the rail, and vice-versa, when forehand toes over near the rail.

I find you need to walk the boards, both forward and back, and side to side.

Also try and use your knees and hips, as shock absorbers, to resist being bounced by the chop.

A Fish is actually really a double pin, and Fish designs do hold well in decent surf (usually). When it is a little bigger, also try going back to the Centre Fin, and 2 side fins.

PonoBill
87 posts
7 Apr 2010 7:07AM
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You probably need to reposition your back foot. I'd guess you have experience on shortboards. On a wide SUP if you keep your foot where it naturally falls you'll have a tiny bit of push into the rail and inner fins. Not quite so critical on a big single fin or a pintail, but absolutely necessary with thrusters and quads or wide-tailed boards.

PonoBill
87 posts
7 Apr 2010 7:08AM
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Oops, I should have read down the thread first. Ah well, at least we agree.

Crash Landing
NSW, 1173 posts
7 Apr 2010 10:18AM
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I have been keeping my feet on the centre line - probably a habit from wavesailing. It makes perfect sense to move my foot across the centre line for the turn - I'll give it a go.

As for fin movement/placement - they are FCS plugs so I have a quad or nothing!

Thanks for the advice.

AA
NSW, 2159 posts
7 Apr 2010 11:02AM
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Crash, the only place the board really turns well with your foot over the centre line is right over the fin! If you are forward of the fin you need to get your foot closer to the rail.
Don't worry, after 3 years I still make this mistake!!

Here is a very good article on foot placement for performance surfing-

paddlesurfhawaii.com/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi



Deisel
13 posts
7 Apr 2010 11:15AM
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It could be that you are surfing it as a quad. It is a bit easier to surf boards with a bigger center and smaller sides. Quads are trickier to dial in but when you do they are very good. You might want to surf with like a 7" center and sidebites. I don't think you should ever slide out on a bottom turn and If you do then the fins are too small. Especially you should not slide out in waves with a 6 to 8 foot face, so you probably need more fin.

Crash Landing
NSW, 1173 posts
7 Apr 2010 2:30PM
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AA, good article - thanks. I was moving around a lot more on the old 11'3" so I need to do the same with the 9'6".

Deisel, I agree with what you say, I had a go on a mates PSH 9'3" and and another mates 9'3" Mana (I think) and they both had large centre fins and the side fins. They felt a lot more drivey.

Can't do much with my fins other than go bigger on the back. Will try foot placements first. Will try to take the trip to Palmy on Sunday to pick up some tips!

Cheers

Kauaifiveo
90 posts
7 Apr 2010 3:07PM
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What system do you have FCS or Futures? If possible try to use fiberglass fins verses plastic or really light flex tip fins. Here in Hawaii, I like to use bigger fiberglass fins. I ride thruster set ups,to me the quad is better for generating speed in slow waves, but in good, powerful waves, I prefer the three fin set up. Being you dont have that option, try fiberglass fins. They tend to hold speed better, and tend not to slip out in powerful waves!! Good Luck!!

Kauaifiveo
90 posts
7 Apr 2010 3:10PM
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If you have futures, check out the Arakawa quads. Those look perfect for what you are looking for. If I had a quad, I would use these in bigger, more powerful surf! Good Luck!!

Deisel
13 posts
7 Apr 2010 3:46PM
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Crash Landing said...

Deisel, I agree with what you say, I had a go on a mates PSH 9'3" and and another mates 9'3" Mana (I think) and they both had large centre fins and the side fins. They felt a lot more drivey.

Can't do much with my fins other than go bigger on the back. Will try foot placements first.


I was under the assumption that your board had a center fin box as well. If you have a center box then switch fins to 2+1 but if you only have the quad boxes then the only thing you can do is to put bigger back fins in until the board stops slipping. On the naish website, the 9'6 is listes as thruster or quad.

mikeman
QLD, 692 posts
7 Apr 2010 7:28PM
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I am considering moving over to PU for surfing bigger waves on SUP. My prone Rhino Chargers are usually built with a solid construction with a nice amount of weight in them. This allows you to absorb the chop a little and commit more to your turns.

CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
7 Apr 2010 7:46PM
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mikeman said...

I am considering moving over to PU for surfing bigger waves on SUP. My prone Rhino Chargers are usually built with a solid construction with a nice amount of weight in them. This allows you to absorb the chop a little and commit more to your turns.


After a little swell of late riding my lite EPS board and over 3 years prior to that riding PU I am convinced without question that PU boards for bigger waves are far superior.

Like Mike said they absorb the bumps and are able to sink the rail without the skip on bottom turns etc.

hilly
WA, 7323 posts
7 Apr 2010 5:54PM
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CMC said...

mikeman said...

I am considering moving over to PU for surfing bigger waves on SUP. My prone Rhino Chargers are usually built with a solid construction with a nice amount of weight in them. This allows you to absorb the chop a little and commit more to your turns.


After a little swell of late riding my lite EPS board and over 3 years prior to that riding PU I am convinced without question that PU boards for bigger waves are far superior.

Like Mike said they absorb the bumps and are able to sink the rail without the skip on bottom turns etc.

I third that a little weight in solid waves can be your friend. A narrower tail like a pin helps too. Saying that Ikiaka can rail a boxy 9 3 at pipe

SimonDodd
NSW, 80 posts
7 Apr 2010 8:19PM
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mikeman said...

I am considering moving over to PU for surfing bigger waves on SUP. My prone Rhino Chargers are usually built with a solid construction with a nice amount of weight in them. This allows you to absorb the chop a little and commit more to your turns.


Weight is definitley the go for larger waves. My 10'10 Bomobora Chaser weighs 14kg setup with Future Fins Vector 2's on the sides and a 4.5" centre fin, mind you it also is a pintail and was shaped by the master craftsman that is Dave Parmenter who knows a thing or two about riding big waves especially on the west coast of oahu.

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
7 Apr 2010 8:48PM
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Simondo said...

SUP's are big and wide. Try getting your back foot right over onto the rail.... On your back-hand, the heel should be close to the rail, and vice-versa, when forehand toes over near the rail.

I find you need to walk the boards, both forward and back, and side to side.

Also try and use your knees and hips, as shock absorbers, to resist being bounced by the chop.

A Fish is actually really a double pin, and Fish designs do hold well in decent surf (usually). When it is a little bigger, also try going back to the Centre Fin, and 2 side fins.


i agree. also, while you have that back foot closer to the inside rail, try placing the front foot closer to the outside rail, it gives you the controlling guide, also helps from falling off. top surf coaches talk about toe, heel and heel ,toe diagonals . because a sup is wider it becomes the whole foot at diagonals across the board. sounds hard, but when i was shown on a skateboard it all made sense
cheers

dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
7 Apr 2010 9:24PM
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crash landing sounds like some bigger fins will go a long way for you in bigger waves they will hold in alot better on your bottom turn . If the board is sliding out on the bottom turn try not putting to much pressure on your back foot. Try pushing a little less with your back foot and driving at little more with your front foot through the bottom turn. Also fin placement could be a key problem make sure you are standing on top of the fins or at least forward of the fins as if you are standing behind them the board will slide out for sure. Also practice makes perfect mate just get out there and have a go but dosnt look good for palmy looks smallish will pray for swell hope ive been any help see you sunday
Dan

Crash Landing
NSW, 1173 posts
8 Apr 2010 9:34AM
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Interesting ideas - thanks! Will try them out, especially DTM's comment about being in front or over the fins. My back foot is usually right at the back of the stomp pad.

As for fins etc I will look for some stiffer ones - I thought the Simon Anderson ones were fiberglass but now I'm doubtful!

My 9'6" is the 08/09 model so comes with four FCS plugs. No centre fin and no way to move them.

Thanks for the help!

tha dogman
NSW, 2912 posts
9 Apr 2010 10:03AM
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i used to ride that board a fare bit crash

great stick

i have found that with most sups in larger waves you have to try and relax and ease your board through the bottom turn as appling to much pressure off the bottom tend to make it skate out a bit

i find that i'm more comfortable driving harder on my backhand off the bottom in larger conditions than on my forehand

find an "fcs test drive centre" at a surf shop and make good friends with the shop staff

tha dogman
NSW, 2912 posts
9 Apr 2010 10:12AM
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SimonDodd said...

mikeman said...

I am considering moving over to PU for surfing bigger waves on SUP. My prone Rhino Chargers are usually built with a solid construction with a nice amount of weight in them. This allows you to absorb the chop a little and commit more to your turns.


Weight is definitley the go for larger waves. My 10'10 Bomobora Chaser weighs 14kg setup with Future Fins Vector 2's on the sides and a 4.5" centre fin, mind you it also is a pintail and was shaped by the master craftsman that is Dave Parmenter who knows a thing or two about riding big waves especially on the west coast of oahu.


doddsie i'll say it all day

that board of yours looked the goods up in that bumpy junk at noosa

the weight is definately the go for larger waves

PU is the go and a long pulled in pin/ice pick tail

JonWest
QLD, 105 posts
9 Apr 2010 10:20AM
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SimonDodd said...

mikeman said...

I am considering moving over to PU for surfing bigger waves on SUP. My prone Rhino Chargers are usually built with a solid construction with a nice amount of weight in them. This allows you to absorb the chop a little and commit more to your turns.


Weight is definitley the go for larger waves. My 10'10 Bomobora Chaser weighs 14kg setup with Future Fins Vector 2's on the sides and a 4.5" centre fin, mind you it also is a pintail and was shaped by the master craftsman that is Dave Parmenter who knows a thing or two about riding big waves especially on the west coast of oahu.


Are these Bombora Chasers available in Australia? Can't seem to find them on the website?

tha dogman
NSW, 2912 posts
9 Apr 2010 1:53PM
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i think doddsie dragged his board back from hawaii himself

after losing his nuts over it there

teatrea
QLD, 4177 posts
9 Apr 2010 8:56PM
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you need a big arse fin like this , goes great in bigger surf.





hilly
WA, 7323 posts
9 Apr 2010 7:21PM
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^^ Have to humbly disagree ^^
Speed on big waves means you want smaller fins. Big fins give too much lift and track badly.
These work a treat on the 12er


Simondo
VIC, 8020 posts
9 Apr 2010 10:34PM
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Yes, nice fin set-up Hilly.
But...
Seriously big waves on a big SUP is a death wish ! Too much board to smash into your ribs or skull ! (IMO - just not for me, when it's big, it is definitely time for prone surfing - for me)

Here's a pic of a big wave machine (before it was waxed). Not short, and not a narrow stringer! Faster than you can dare to imagine.... but not built to go vertical (12 o'clock), nor was it built for snaps off the top. But down the line speed, phenomenal !! I rate this board - til death do us part... a keeper...



SimonDodd
NSW, 80 posts
10 Apr 2010 5:44PM
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JonWest said...

SimonDodd said...

mikeman said...

I am considering moving over to PU for surfing bigger waves on SUP. My prone Rhino Chargers are usually built with a solid construction with a nice amount of weight in them. This allows you to absorb the chop a little and commit more to your turns.


Weight is definitley the go for larger waves. My 10'10 Bomobora Chaser weighs 14kg setup with Future Fins Vector 2's on the sides and a 4.5" centre fin, mind you it also is a pintail and was shaped by the master craftsman that is Dave Parmenter who knows a thing or two about riding big waves especially on the west coast of oahu.


Are these Bombora Chasers available in Australia? Can't seem to find them on the website?


Dogman is right, I had one shaped for me and picked it up at last years dukes fest in Hawaii. Stay tuned as we are about the flick the switch on the production of them here in oz....

OG SUP
VIC, 3516 posts
10 Apr 2010 6:21PM
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I have to agree with Hilly,

His set up and mine are almost identical and on the same board!

Might not go vert but they go bloody close.

No sure what doggie is running would be interesting to hear?

Simondo is right though get it wrong on a SUP in big waves and its gonna hurt you big time.

Phill.





hilly said...

^^ Have to humbly disagree ^^
Speed on big waves means you want smaller fins. Big fins give too much lift and track badly.
These work a treat on the 12er





tha dogman
NSW, 2912 posts
10 Apr 2010 6:35PM
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ive only had in the waves once and that was at noosa

AA got it sent up for me last minute as the forecast was looking like it was gonna be real big

we put some sides like the ones in hillys piccie and the stocko rear fin that comes with it and pushed it as far back as i could get it

it feels very loose for a 12ft board

hangin to try it as a quad when the swell picks up on some of the bombies here at home



tha dogman
NSW, 2912 posts
10 Apr 2010 6:40PM
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simondo is right

its not a good look being on a sup getting pumped but......

when all is going good it is great to be able to spot sets comin from miles away and being able to paddle into position and get in early and charge a few lumps

goatman
NSW, 2151 posts
10 Apr 2010 6:48PM
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I agree with Hilly - bigger waves does not mean bigger fins - more likely to track!!

Make sure you have you legs spread a bit further apart and get down real low when setting up the bottom turn. Keep your back foot in particular over the inside rail.

Personally I feel more comfortable on a SUP in bigger waves than a prone board these days - so can't agree with you there Simondo. Ya can see better, get into position and into the waves more easily.

Just had 6 days straight down the NSW south coast in nice 8 - 10 foot faces, swell pumped all week!



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"Need some big (and bumpy) wave advice..." started by Crash Landing