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Paddling out beach break

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Created by poseidon > 9 months ago, 26 Mar 2010
poseidon
QLD, 35 posts
26 Mar 2010 4:05PM
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Hi, any tips when paddling out in relatively hollow beach breaks. I have no problems getting through broken waves but when a hollow 3ft or so wave breaks on me or just in front its hard to maintain control of the board (standing of course). Any tips, also what size surf until you start thinking of ditching rather then smashing through the wave.

DavidJohn
VIC, 17461 posts
26 Mar 2010 5:09PM
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Timing is everything.. .. or find a point break.. .. Sometimes you've just gotta bail.. ..see pic bellow.

Welcome to The Breeze..

DJ

BBsup
NSW, 12 posts
26 Mar 2010 5:19PM
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If your paddling out and its to big to push through, just do what you can...jump over the back-dive under (both of which you should check to see if anyone behind)...or roll and hope for the best.

Lobes
885 posts
26 Mar 2010 2:50PM
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By the time its getting between waist and chest high I'm bailing out of waves rather than try to go over them. Depends on the wave a bit as well. I'm 6'.

dmax
WA, 11 posts
26 Mar 2010 3:52PM
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I had trouble with this and still do... the best thing I have changed is keeping your knees bent so you ride the bump

surfydad
QLD, 166 posts
26 Mar 2010 7:36PM
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I generally get in the surfing position and get the nose pointing 45 deg and push through the wave. The aim is to get you and the board on the other side of the wave. Doesn't matter if you stay on the board or not. This doesn't work for the bigger waves, overhead, and can be dangerous as the board will bounce off the wave and into you. To do this safely is to ditch board and dive under wave.

aussiewahine
QLD, 798 posts
27 Mar 2010 12:04AM
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Not sure if this will help as he's talking and demonstrating how to get through broken white wash and you said you've got that covered. Might help others though with this topic ??

OG SUP
VIC, 3516 posts
27 Mar 2010 8:48AM
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Welcome to the breeze

I would like to know what size board your riding, how tall and approx your weight and the fin configuration and size. Also what shape the nose is and amount of volume that is in the nose of the board ie is it round / fuller nose an is it thick or thin in the nose? Heavy or light board?

Why you may ask?

On a DC 9.4 or PSH 12fter with a pointy low volume nose it will to some degree penitrate the white water and spear through making it significantly easier to get out through white water. A rounder fuller thicker nose board will want to go up and over the white wash and will pitch you off the back more.

In those conditions you may want a deeper center fin if its a thruster or 2 +1 to give you more stability to punch through.

Ensure to lower your center of gravity, even get your back knee onto the board drop knee style for stability if you can as you hit the white water and slap the paddle hard and flat on the water to brace yourself.

A pic of the board would be nice so we can see whats going on!

Watching the C4 volume one SUP VID will help.

Phill

WINDY MILLER
WA, 3183 posts
27 Mar 2010 8:10AM
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interesting topic......can be dangerous activity.

would like to see some vids of getting out through bigger waves....


what size do you bail ??????


i've had a couple of scary moments trying to make badly timed waves that were too big,,,,,,nothing worse than goin for a reverse tumble with boards,leash and fins on top of you...

now,,if i'm unsure and THERE IS NO TRAFFIC BEHIND,,, hold my breath, dive to the side and go for the ride...

also after hearing about Hilly's mate paddling into a wave..... from memory his board snapped and the front half clouted him in the face ,,

Ted the Kiwi
NSW, 14256 posts
27 Mar 2010 1:42PM
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Select to expand quote
WINDY MILLER said...

interesting topic......can be dangerous activity.


Yes I can assure you it is! I broke my toe (the one next to the little one) because I got too cocky trying to go over the whitewash on a bigger one.....it hurt like hell! I should have bailed mid way through but tried to hang on and the wave just smashed the board back into me crunching my toe. Apparently it looked really funny - although not to me!!!!! Anyway after 5 weeks out of water i am back in and loving it.....courtesy of a much shorter board. I found my 11'6" a nightmare to get over the whitewater on but with the new 9'5" its an absolute dream.

When its hollow and breaking in front of me now I make sure no one is within reach and bail. I am not keen to do any more damage. I am also prepared to hang back in the calmer water and wait for an oppotunity to arise before heading back out. Sometimes this works and other times it just annoys me. Just depends on the day really. I think the key is to be flexible in yr approach and be ready to race out the back at a moments notice.

scubasim
QLD, 118 posts
27 Mar 2010 4:57PM
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I totally understand your frustration, i am currently in the same boat trying to get out through the breaks...what i find best for me when the surf is getting too big, is too, "put my head between my knees, and kiss my bum good bye"
Practice, practice practice.....ive been told also works

Gorgo
VIC, 4982 posts
27 Mar 2010 7:30PM
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Dive through the wave and let the board stream out on the leash behind you (obviously you don't do this with others in the impact zone).

Sometimes the board will come through with you.

If you get dragged go with it. Stay slim and stream lined and don't resist the pull. Fighting just makes everything worse and you risk breaking your leash.

It's kind of fun once you relax.

As you are gliding along backwards you can push down with your arms or paddle to steer yourself up to the surface. (I've done this a few times and seen it in videos. It seemed to work when I did it. I haven't had that many mega-draggings so I'm not very practiced at it.)

I would not try to kick the board over a sizable wave. It's never good to be between the beach and your board. It's likely to come back and clobber you.

Kagey
569 posts
27 Mar 2010 5:26PM
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Sam Pa'e made a short vid demonstrating getting over waves, he used to be on the 'Zone', from memory he was able to negotiate waves of roughly 6ft? DJ you may be able to set me straight on that one?....and also find the vid?

Kagey
569 posts
27 Mar 2010 5:45PM
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Found it. Maybe interesting to some of you?

www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=2607.0

MIKO
QLD, 408 posts
27 Mar 2010 8:11PM
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IMO, a 3 ft hollow wave ( head high and a little bit) , you are probably NOT going to punch through if its pitching. I'd bail.
A 3ft mush burger you can get over easy enough with timing and balance. When it is bigger, I have this little thing going where i push my ankles foward, get low, at time of impact to get through, and it works

Any tips, also what size surf until you start thinking of ditching rather then smashing through the wave.

Any wave you think may smash ya till you get the hang of it. Have fun learning , it is all good

Tryfan
QLD, 256 posts
27 Mar 2010 10:12PM
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One thing to absolutely NOT do, is jump forwards over the front of your board while pushing through a wave, as your board is highly likely to come up nose first and smash you. Have heard a few painful stories...

Lobes
885 posts
27 Mar 2010 9:11PM
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Tryfan said...

One thing to absolutely NOT do, is jump forwards over the front of your board while pushing through a wave, as your board is highly likely to come up nose first and smash you. Have heard a few painful stories...


Haha yeah, thats something I only did once



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"Paddling out beach break" started by poseidon