wahooooo swell is here!!!! just seen the alley and a good six ft set came in. Just going to grab my board and get out there!!!!!wahoooo
so good to see some swell yesterday. Got out south newport in the afternoon, and there were some monster close out sets rolling in. My last one almost took me down to the club house...almost
Still bloody nothing here - mid north coast. Bugger. Must have missed us. Bugger.
Brown Water at 6ft? BULL****?? here's the proof!!
brownwater is a north/NW facing bay that is used by boats, JetSki etc as a launching point (boatramp)... if there is a wave... its usually really small and around the corner towards Winki...
Yesterday 6ft sets were coming in and breaking accross the bay!!
As usual... Goatman said... "F*** it... lets charge!!
"
I snapped my leggy bailing off the 1st wave of the day and ended up having an epic swim in against the current, waves and rocks back to shore 
... meanwhile Goaty grabbed my board for me!! Legend!!
then went back to what he does best...
A good friend of mine Kat went and grabbed a leggy from Sam for me up the road... then I went to play on the right to the east.... was buggered after the swim so only caught 1 wave...
epic day... good fun...
Pics are rejects.... some are on hold for Casso... Thanks Jedi for taking the pics!!
Hope you all are scoring!!
Matty
I have surfed Browny a fair few times throughout the years, but only ever on a short board. Thinking about it on a SUP it might actually be a bit easier to deal with the current out there and to stay in the one place.
still small up here and comin from the east
got up at daylight hoping to get a few in before i had lessons but it was tiny so grabbed the glide and went for a paddle to an offshore bombie and catch a few weird twisted waves just me and about 10 million garfish
just looked at it then and its only a bit bigger but no real hope for tomorrow
can always dream
...
The planets must have been in some crazy alignment or something like that this week, very surreal, unforgettable couple of days.
Monday arvo surfed just up from the pipe at Collaroy. Little 1 footers sucking up on a shallow sandbank. First wave pulled into tiny closeout, jumped off the board as it shut down, oops, ankle deep sandbank, no
where to go. Board sucked up behind me and bang, smacked me in the face. Ouch.
Felt my nose, nope, not broken. Then blood everywhere. I mean everywhere. Turned out the impact had pushed my nose in with so much force that the cartilage in it severed my septum. Spent the night at Manly Hospital them up to RNS on Tuesday for surgery to put it back together.
Just coming back from the Dr on Wednesday morning and Goaty calls me to see how I was doing. Tells me the surf has jacked to 15 foot! WTF! When I left the beach and went to the hospital it was micro! So instead of sitting at home feeling sorry for myslef I head round to Goaty's. He's talking about hitting up North Curl Curl Point and I'm gonna take the pics.
Get there and Goaty says that he saw the biggest wave he's ever seen at North Curly point come through and close out the whole thing, so that option doesn't look too good.
Next thing I know we're standing on top of Longy headland looking at Butterbox. So much water moving around, waves coming through alright but not really doing it's thing properly. Out to sea guys are towing in at Third Bommie on 25 foot faces ( no I'm not exagerating).
The swell is all time for Makaha but the wind just ain't right for it.
Matty arrives and we discuss where to surf. Then we remember that Brown Water looked quite fun when we went past it ( had totally forgetton about it when presented with the spectacle going on between Long Reef and Dee Why), so we head back down to check it out.
The bay at Fishermans Beach looks carzy, swell everywhere. The waves coming through Brown Water look fun, but hard to judge the size. The boys make the call to head out ( as Goaty realises he's only brought his 9 year old son's rashy ).
Once they paddle out and are standing up as sets come through you can tell it's a pretty chunky wave indeed. When Matty broke his leggy it was an epic! Old guys were standing up on the deck at the golf club, beers in hand watching the whole ordeal. Took him a long time to get to the beach - couldn't belive it when he sent his freind up the road to get him a new leggy! On ya Matt! He never stopped smiling through the whole ordeal - I reckon this included when he was underwater getting smashed by the sets!
Goaty was ripping, as the pics show. Some pretty hollow faces, and cranking off the bottom. I hope Casso gets some good shots for the mag, and if he doesn't Matty make sure you put them up here as it's pretty rare to see Brown Water like that.
So much water moving around in that bay, you could see when Goaty was paddling in how hard he was working against the currents, and then to negotiate the shorey...
That was a truely crazy coulpe of days, to smash my face in a little beachy to see guys towing in on 25 footers and then end up witnessing the epic adventure that went down at Brown Water that afternoon was on those things you never forget.
Oh and thanks for letting me use your camera Matt!
