Scored Thickshakes for the LABO/LAGO. Thats late arfternoon bump off into a late afternoon (semi) glass off.
Only me and waist high waves.
First infront of the viewing platform with sucky take-offs, knee deep ledge, going left or going right. Once it got fat it reformed into a nice curl. Had hoots from the gallery.
Paddled over to my little left where the 11'2 comes out to play. Longer rides and some nice little curls... old school! I was frothing. Blinded by the camera flashes with the sunsetting behind me. Magic.
Its 3am and the wind has swung offshore! just enough time for a couple of hours sleep, wake up, call my boss to tell him that my 11'2 is on fire and I need to put it out!
Back to the place where the shakes are empty and free from those pesky lickety-splits
With 2 hours sleep I sprung outta bed to the sound of no wind... huh? Anywho...
My 11'2 was burning so I went back to put it out.
No one around but me, myself and I.
If your into soul surfing, riding the nose, grabbing the rail and just crusin', then get out there and find waves like this! There are many ankle biters just waiting to be riden.
If your into quick turns, snappy off the lips, go get 'em lickety-split surfing then stay on your toothpick on the beachies.
Here are some photos from this morning.
I'm off into the wild
Just looking back through some previous days at Thicks.
None of these photos are of the same wave... enjoy
