Wave size topic Again

Ok, so I know we have discussed this before on this forum, but keeping it real about wave size is the key in this new ever growing sport (hobby). For anyone that has not done an apprenticeship (grommet hood) in the surf, here is just one example of calling wave size from a true hawaiin sup charger Most guys out there that have been supping less than 2yrs would not be going out in stuff over 3ft Unless they been surfing for years and Know whats happening in the ocean Anyway thats what the wave size thing is all about for surfers... Check it out

Blane Chambers
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Re: production big wave guns...
« Reply #10 on: November 29, 2008, 10:01:20 am » Reply with quote
Quote if you surf a 40' face why in the world call it 20' ?

This is a subject that has been discussed for years and years. Does it make sense? Well, to me NO. BUT, it is what it is. Since I was little waves here were always measured 1/2 of what the face is. Cannot be changed now. I'm not going to get into all the reasons people came up with why it is what it is, IT JUST IS and its not changing.

40' face and bigger, yes, our 12 footer is the way the to go. Yes also to the way the wave breaks and what you want to do on it. Let's say you have a wave with a 20' face with good shape and power. A 12 footer could easily race sections and you could fly to the shoulder. The reason I say the 10-6 is more than enough is you can carve the wave up to the shoulder. Rip it up. The 12 footer is not a board you would tear apart a small wave with. What I designed that 12 footer for is the large to extra large realm. Take off and race for your life. All that 12' board is for is serious speed lines to the shoulder or handling the drop on a beast of a wave. Sure you can get into the wave super early and you could have fun on a smaller wave IF out running the wave is OK with you. That board is all about making it to the shoulder with speed or into a gigantic barrel holding its line.

I guess the point I was trying to make is a lot of people who talk about big waves are talking about waves with 10' to 20' faces. This is not what I made the 12 footer for. Our 9-2 AA can handle that. It really depends what the person is trying to accomplish. In that other thread you started about outer reefs and big waves, it is clear that the term "BIG" is only relative to who is talking and each persons perspective or pucker factor. How does a video of fun little waves get into a thread titled Outer Reef Big Waves? (Cool vid by the way) Its all perspective.

What would make me pucker would made guys like Laird yawn. I can't even imagine what behemoth of a wave would make guys like Ikaika and Laird pucker!! Shocked

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That's a big bridge Greenroom? How big do you reckon it is.

1 ft