just had a weekend in cornwal in the uk and tock my helmit cam out
it wasnt perfect conditions at all and i was the only sup or long boarder out
it was 6' at 13 sec low tide and every decent wave was ending in a big close out.
i saw a larrge clean out set out back so paddle way out to avoid it but the second wave looked so tempting so a quick turn around and off i went whith all the short boardes cheering me on as it was clear it was a one way ticket to the under world(i kinda forgot about the hole close out thing oops) any way after they were all saying i though sup were for only small waves so think i got ernt a little cred from them. i shot it on a hero5 wide so anyone who has one will know how much it flatens the look of stuf, i was told by the short boarders it was atleast 2' over head
anyway ill let you watch the vid now and have a bit of a larf at me.
I doubted 13 second periods in Cornwall for a second but I counted them, 13 seconds apart and held under for 3. I like the ooohhh's and aarrrghhh's.
Great vid and stoked to see someone able to take a laugh at themself. Nice work Geez.
I wasn't larding quite so hard underwater being draged by my leg but once I got back out to every ones amazement I couldn't stop. I've actauly had the last 3long weekends in Devon and corwall with between 12 and 13 sec and between 3 and 5 ft with perfect glassy rights surfing in boardies some days it's almost been like surfing in anuther country!
Boardies in June? Global warming???
I lived near Constantine for a while and surfed once or twice in a short john in July or August but was still a bit chilly.
Of course I wasnt on a stand up then, it's a bit warmer in the sun. This was a while ago. Great part of the world and to many peoples surprise some good waves over there.
I really enjoyed the actual enjoyment of surfing, bonfires, combi vans, joints on the beach, summer field parties (watch the cow poo). It was OK to enjoy surfing and beginners and pro's all hung together with surfing being the common bond. It feels like sometimes here on the Gold Coast it's too cool to be fun.
Aaaaah I am romancing, it was a great time of my life...... Sorry about that.