Back to some surf chat on Friday in the long room. Whats the best left you have surfed and the one you have always wanted to? I am looking for some inspiration as its time for me to book myself a trip. Any advice welcome.
I had the joy of surfing Raglan for 4 yrs during my Uni days from 91-95 and loved it. Here is a shot I took last time I was home and scored it big time for a few days. I am also a big fan of a left down TB and Gizzies way and another long left in Taranaki that reminds me of the sweet potato (don't worry boys no photos).
I have always had a soft spot for Bingin after my first trip there in 95 and had a week of heaven. What a spot. Its only a short wave (compared to others) but its unreal. Especially that first section after takeoff. Sadly when I was back there last year it was not working
I spent a 3 weeks surfing a really long left in northern peru a few years back....not at the more famous Chicama but its apparent poor cousin Pacasmayo - which I think is a better spot as it picks up more swell as the waves do not need to bend around as much coastline. Wicked wave, super cheap place to hang out, dogey spot with a massive amount of water rolling down the point. Great fun though. Longest rides I have ever had by a long way. We used to get up and walk 40 mins to the top of the point from town and catch 3 or 4 waves back. Have some food and then do it again. All day long. We were to cheap to buy a lift out there!
The left I have always dreamed of surfing though is cloudbreak. I went to Fiji in 2002 but we never got to surf it sadly. We did surf some other great lefts though. Now that anyone can surf it these days (not just on an allocated Sunday) I can not wait to get out there. I would love to score it at 6 foot. Looks like heaven.
My best ever left was in my shortboarding days at d-bah,one wave off loves into the middle of the beach back hand top to bottom all the way,one wave that still sticks in my mind.Kuta reef on a 901 in 2006 mid tide some nice ones had.Beit it took an hour to settle the nerves and stayed wide for a while until things started to click.
Happy Friday off to the Bay tomorrow with young Chrispy
The best lefts I have surfed are Chinamans (evans head) and Mookies (2) is my all time fave - not gunna explain Mookies cos those that know ......... well, they just know !
For me Raglan in my younger days Indacators Whangamata Bar also early in life , In the presant Tuamotu Island is world class two LH breaks the bowel & insides , at Xmas we were catching lefts on outsides riding them into the bowel never done that before must have just had the tide right . Don't think you could ride a mal on insides , but I do SUP it . Also this year have had over head hollow & fast lefts at big river
There you go Ted make you home sick .
this easy as for me. summercloud. i was 14 when i first surfed there. an amazing wave in a amazing part off our beautiful country got pushed into alot of waves that day that i would not have ridden by myself,the older crew would just send us grommies straight into deathpits
Cheers fellas - I should point out that I will be travelling with my SB's - not SUP or LB's - all too hard around airports etc. I like an easy life. I am also a natural footer - but just love lefts!!
I was thinking I could head home for a 3 week roadie around the North Island TB - but I have done that too many times and wouild prefer to go somewhere new and semi adventourous!
Been the worst summer here I can remmber Ted crappy little swells must get somthing soon , yer so na don't come this way
Great pics Ted.
In my early years I also enjoyed Green Island and Blackrock on NSW south coast. A place called The Spot in my hometown of Newie was awesome, also Blacks and Granites (SA) and Jakes and Gnaraloo (WA). - Mark
Hmmm, SP, i loved Nomotu too although it was 20 years ago (and Wilkes, if i can mention a righthander!) - Mark
Ahipara (also known as shipwrecks) near Kaitaia....is a rocky headland that those big swells from the south wrap around creating a series of breaks that on a really happy day link up together to make rides nearing a kilometre long. Quite fun driving through the night to get there also
Never buy a second hand car from kaitaia though....they drive them along the beach heaps!!
I go left at Rainbow bay just for something different.Does become a bit boring surfing rights all the time.
My best 2 left waves ever:
Backsides at Flatrock Ballina. First proper reef break ever. Did not want to paddle out, 6 foot spitting barrels.
Sat out there for about an hour freaking out. Fish everywhere, waves cracking on the rocks. Finally took one, got completely picked up and went head first in the lip. I was sure I was dead. I did not hit the bottom and came up easily. If I survived that there was no dramas. Spent the next 3 hours getting wave after wave and had the best surf for a very long time.
Next was Ulu's. 6 - 8 feet. First surf in Indo ever. High tide, climbed down the old bamboo ladder into the cave that was washing through and rebounding. Made it out and sat there for ever. So spooked. Eventually paddled for a set and was dropped in on by 2 Brazo's. I got faded and went over head first in the lip. Lived, no scratches and once again had an amazing surf.
I remember those first 2 waves more than any of the others from those sessions.