Got smashed/hammered by 5 set waves on the paddle out today. The trusty 9'6 pin tail was tomb-stoning, pulling me in...
Got swept down near the end of the reef to where I should have paddled out in the first place!!
Then, paddled back up the point, waited patiently for a nice set to come my way... Only took 5 minutes, but I was too casual on the paddling speed, and ended up getting hung up the top, and taking a very steep drop (1.5 over-head), and BLEW IT! Went over the falls... got washing machined... I'm thinking... "should I have even bothered paddling out!"...
But I got 4 really nice ones after that. Thankfully I nailed some really clean hard bottom turns, smooth top turns, and great trim speed... So I was really happy with that surf, except the FIRST 10 MINUTES!
Here's another pic of one of my favorite Single Fins of all time, and it's 9'6!
I love this Single Fin!
(my car & board, but not my house... this is a random house in Geelong/Newtown, near Pako.)
Nothing like a good bashing when you paddle out....a few months back when one of the reefs down here was working - its a good 25 min paddle out - it looked a solid 6ft to me with a few bigger ones....I headed out and was almost out the back when a set of 5 2-story buildings came wide and cleaned me up...almost destroyed me! I headed back in with my tail between my legs with not one wave caught!! I did not even make it out the back. By the time I got back to the beach I was knackered....shameful
At least you got some Simondo and some good ones as well.
Nice post Simondo, I feel your frustration!
Nothing worse than getting out the back after being hammered by a couple of sets, then not having the puff to paddle on, missing it, then being caught inside for another set..... At least, that was my day yesterday.... Not 1.5 over, but close to head high.
Nice board......, not a bad house as far as houses go
Nice to hear you are at least getting waves Simondo, nothing like surfing a single in 5ft plus surf, it sort of takes you back in time I think. Please send some decent waves our way.
Spiro
Crikey ... I thought that only happened to me. At least you have swell...nothing on the mid nsw coast
Ouch
I remember one session on a big day at Kawana, not so much a big paddle out but just kept copping multiple waves on the head on the way out and the northerly sweep was horrendous.....
ended up so buggered when I got out, I was found 45 minutes later by my mates, lying in the gutter beside my car recuperating.....where the **** have you been they say......
Good post Simondo.... Nothing worse than taking a long tour of the ocean bottom before you get out.
But I reckon your photo raises a different question....
Do breezers put their board on the racks tail first or nose first?
What about the old fins first and once around with the leggie.....hehehehe....not me always too paranoid that it will fall off....
Short boarder got in my way today... I was up and riding, and had been for over 50 meters. I lined up a fast section, he paddled for the shoulder when he should have worn it on the head...
Its Nose went an inch the bottom of my new board! 20 cent size ding... Strangely its is probably only a $30 repair, but I'm 10 times more annoyed than when I get a shopping trolley ding in the car!!
Oh well, first proper collision in a very long time...
The wife has had 4 different rear end touch ups (in the car!), and I don't even blink an eye at those now!! But it is time to get them fixed... Needs work on both rear quarter panels, new rear bumper, and probably a new skin on rear left door. $500 excess gets that sorted...
I need a beer! I will also be hoping to touch up the wife's rear end later too!
fins first for me. why? the board is stiffer at the fin end,so on my little car that is good.
cool story simondo. how you got your wish mate