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Sorry for the sponger pics but he was the only one out to take pics of 
Lots of fun, chest high drainers, the odd one about head high, plenty of tubes. New board is fun too.
I have a vague idea where that is. Nice. Only surfed it a couple of times like 25 years ago.
I went out the local today. It sucked. Banks are gone. One person out when I arrived, four by the time I was suited up, at least twenty at it's peak (all the local groms, a handful of the usual rippers and a bunch of blowins). It was pretty much a waste of time although I got a few waves that enabled a few nice turns.
No banks eh....does this mean none of those epic early spring gems that we normally get? :(
There's a big shallow bank but it's not really linking up from out the back properly. And lots of sand has ended up back on the beach - it's huge for this time of year instead of water lapping at the steps. Generally at this time I'd expect water in further and shallower sand out further. And not such deep gutters at the rocks.
Well, I couldn't follow doctors orders and had to get in the water. I honestly did not see a single other surfer out this morning between Sandtrax and Cott. I was in the water just after 6 and got out after 8. I had Cott all to myself except one other guy that came out for a very short while. Very odd, never happened to me before...but I'm not complaining
Waves were pretty crappy though. Lumpy as all buggery, hard to judge and the wash going back out to see made the little bottom turns a bugger. Still...got salty, got a few waves so nothing to complain about 
I'm thinking it's in front of an ugly "resort" that you might find if you went beachcombing.
Got out yesterday at my local. Extremely weedy, but no one else around except a couple of my mates, weed must have scared everyone off. Was a pain paddling back through the weed, but wasnt effecting the quality of the rides. Surfed my 6 foot 7s superfish, so it was like putting the trainer wheels back on my bike after surfing the 5'4 biscuit all winter. Great fun, got a couple of 80m rides all the way into the beach. Nice to have the sun out as well. Hoping we get a couple more spikes in the swell before the summer flatness hits.
I got my first barrel on a lid there back in the day so much fun when it works, was around spring time too, had finished school for good and hit it up mid week.
Took off in front of the rocks, got it set up and sat tight in the hollow tube past the rocks and into a close out section that launched with the backwash, repeated the process about 6 times and had my first dose of surf stoke, ahhh memories!
Anyone been down to Secrets in the last few days? Need a morning surf tomorrow and the Leighton/Cott region isn't throwing up quality.
Suba, venture a bit further and you'll find some quality banks, you'll need to be near a golf course. Some nice rip bowls along that stretch.
yeah it's been a bit hit and miss there Doggie during this winter, too many northerlies. The golf course stretch is shielded a bit from the northerly so I think that's helped, had some great sessions there in the last month.
I've just had to endure the phys ed boys telling me it's cranking, looking forward to next lesson when the groms also verify how good it is, bring on 3 o'clock, favourite wave has started to work, just need the wind to stay as it is.
Lazy morning. Checked out cott at 6.30, not bad but too many people. Went to leighton, got my own bank. Odd good one came through, perfect conditions just not enough swell.
