Haven't been wet in a while. Car hunting sucks. Stopped for a couple of pics today. Some really chunky wedges coming through, some almost parallel to the beach, check the way this thing is throwing! End section was pretty nasty though...
Those of you who know where this is will appreciate the size too.
Cott was great this morning. Fair bit of a crowd at the Cove, etc. Iso's was busy from sunrise - plenty of longboards in a small area takeoff zone makes it look packed. Went over to Cott, spent an hour there before uni with only 3 other guys. Nice walls on offer; the odd rouge waves about head high. Was one of those mornings you can't believe you lucked out.
Just spent 4 hours at Trigg 2nd CP.
Lots of crap waves to filter through but plenty of quality rolling through.
Pretty stoked.
...but busted my 6'1" so I'm now out of shortboards. Time to go shopping.
WTH? How do you even do that? It would've been small and lumpy, how do you snap a board in those conditions? I reckon you're doing something wrong.
I didn't say I snapped it 
Busted fins (don't know how, didn't hit anything) and they're glassed in and the board isn't even remotely worth fixing.
As for small and lumpy, there were plenty of head height rouges coming through if you waited and they got heavy enough when they bowled up. 
EDIT: I guess "busted" was a poor choice of words. But damaged enough that I wont use it again and the cost:worth ratio of fixing it means it's going to stay broken
haha that other guy was probably me. Had a wettie on...i know i know. I would have only just gotten in the water at around 7ish.
It didn't pick up until about 9ish (guessing, I didn't have a watch) then the water started filling up with surfers and boogers. Had to go in a couple hours after that, my arms had had it.
**** it. I'm going to have to start taking photos/video
It was pretty crap for the first couple of hours, although the odd decent one came through.
EDIT:
Actually, when I went in the two learners were still there (they stuck it out for ages) but there was a girl and a guy at 2nds. The guy was shredding. Probably wasnt me you saw.
Elliot you definitely need to start taking pics or film if you're gonna froth as much as you do. After all you claim extreme photog/film as a future career aspiration.
Mate I'm a 40yr old cripple and manage to post some interesting pics with my phone camera.
It only takes a minute to snap some pics and if you get some pics up I promise to stop taking the pi$$ outa you so much
done deal :p
Suppose i shouldnt mention that i use to be a paid photog/videographer hahaha
I'll just wack a gopro on my new board
Trigg was lumpy and bumpy and pretty ordinary but there was a bit of size so maybe find a reef break this morning.
Super busy today so didn't make it out, but I wish I could've. Looked like heaps of fun the couple of places I went past.
Awesome! ^^^
Had a morning sesh at Cott, then a chem lecture then an arvo sesh at Cott.
Lumpy as ****!
Looks terrible Thommo, dunno how you drag yourself outta bed for that crap
I'll be hitting up a hollow left rockwall in the morning that'll be about a quarter of the size. Better make that one fifth.
Some bombs at Trigg this morning, right place right time as usual. Nice and glassy, a little lumpy but getting better.
Just spent 4 hours down at Secrets...started off meh and got pretty decent after an hour or so. Most fun I've had in recent weeks...hardly anyone out and very little waiting between sets.
...and that chika got herself a wetsuit so I didn't have to go in half nude 
...which suited me because bluebottles are in.
But sadly some cvnts broke into the cafe and tried to knock off the surf shop during the night. Bastards.
...which suited me because bluebottles are in.
Best its been for a long time today. Solid sets and hardly any crew around. A bit wonky but that produced more peaks.
