Stupidly got up early. I new it would be small so packed the long board but i ended up at work early instead
So it begins...
I don't know how I'm going to handle another wave-less summer Such a bitter sweet season...beautiful girls, perfect weather...but no swell. I'm not putting much faith in the La Nina prediction to bring us much swell this summer...and to rub salt in the wounds, the diving just gets worse and worse with the extra sunlight
Looks like I'll be migrating to Indonesia for a few months...again.
Tiddly little summer like 1 footers at Trigg... little bank at Seconds working ok (shape wise), but there was about 12 of us scrambling for them... wind came in at 2:20pm.
I enjoyed a few hours in waist to chest high with the occasional head high set in clean warm relatively uncrowded conditions this morning.
Heading there now. Not expecting much, but need to get out of the house.
Surfed for about an hour down at Secrets this morning...pretty meh.
Oh...and the surfshop and cafe at Secrets are getting bulldozed this December
****ing sucks. Great surf shop and absolutely loved that cafe.
Suspect that I was at the same break smicko visited yesterday...
Was a touch cross-shore from the south at 8:45am and to be honest did not look that special - then about 9:30 after a dozen had left the water it glassed off for an hour... wasn't big, but was a consistent shoulder high and had some shape and importantly some length to the rides... 3 or 4 turns/moves each wave and 5 or 6 on the bigger ones.
At about 11:00am the wind swung to the North and it got a bit lumpy - although the size picked up a bit... more crew went in so I was happy to sit there and pick the best of it.
Best surf I've had for a many a week [but I have been off-form for a long long while...so perhaps not the best measure of quality].
I'm guessing by the post's today i was the only one at work early
Looked at my locals but nah, travelled to Seconds and it was wet to say the least but rather uninspiring. SO ended up at the Chiro for a squeezed in visit Then onto work early again.. This week looks real bad. I was thinking more about a wave pool..We could even let the Pink tutu wearing shark wimps use it to feel better about themselves
Then just for fun let one go in the pool and see how the media dealt with it
I felt extra safe in the water this morning when the Barnett helicopter flew over at 7.30. Now we can all feel safe again!
Such a bitter sweet season...beautiful girls, perfect weather...but no swell. I'm not putting much faith in the La Nina prediction to bring us much swell this summer...and to rub salt in the wounds, the diving just gets worse and worse with the extra sunlight
Flat as on the beaches.
I was hoping to get out to one of my out of the way spots today but my mates are too scared of sharks. "You couldn't pay me to get in the water out there" was one of the responses. " You've got to be ****ing kidding " was the other. Nice to have mates!
Yep...I'm the only one out of my mates still regularly getting in the water.
Bunch of pussies
But yeah...this week looks to be a write off. I'm going to go bat5hit crazy.
