Swell and wind graphs and Cams suggest it would be good to be in the water right now... looks like most of the metro breaks would be worth a paddle...
Nice sunny day to be behind a desk! 
Ah crap. I didn't plan on surfing today given the forecast. But you're right, looks good. Oh well, tomorrow for sure.
i dunno.. i bet that`s K-Land Legion was bullsh!tin raven on about 2 footers when ther`s a 6mtre swell on haha can`t fool us caught out this time, me and a heap of me mates are coming down sth haha it`s been crap here,.. and lotsa sharks to.......ffs aqnd some seals to.
[edit>'] and the turtles wake ya up allnight..friggin sex maniacs
Crap here too. I was at Kearnsy's today. It was about 2', with the odd 3'er and maybe one or two 4' clean up sets. Sea breeze arrived shortly before I did. Lots of weed. It should've been fun, but I had a shocker. Dropped in on three times, twice by the same local guy who obviously did it intentionally (saw him do it to others too), once by a guy who looked back at me, then did a cutback towards me, then fell off and did nothing to control his board and I copped it in the scone. Fun times. Almost every wave was a party wave. I was paddling out at one stage and watched 3 guys take off (most waves had 3 guys for some reason). Afterwards one of them said to another "you should've called me off. If you don't say anything I'll keep going". WTF? I reckon you shouldn't have to say anything at all. If I see a guy paddling for a wave, I watch and unless he misses the wave I won't do anything. Today, everyone seemed to watch someone paddle, then not look at them any more (pretending they didn't exist), then drop in, then keep riding and not do anything unless you almost pushed them off. Such bad manners, such kooks.
Anyway, as well as the drop-ins I managed to get caught behind a couple of times, and I also managed a couple of late takeoffs where my front foot was far enough forward that there was no wax and it slipped off. Twice. That might happen once every few months usually. I'm going to take Nick Carroll's advice and wax way forward from now on.
It kind of glassed off at the end but I'd lost motivation and my head was kind of scrambled. It wasn't my day.
In those first couple pics I was wondering how any can go unridden with the crowds there.
I liked the answer. They are bombs alright. Love the thought of trying to get out and wearing one of those.
Respect to the guys that can do it.
when it gets big - no crowd
no balls = no waves
need to pick your wave, with the right looking shape down the line
even andy irons pulled back on a few when he was there
also might look empty but the dude may be in the barrell!
in fact wasnt crowded as made out, only so many can be accommodated
a few extra turn up for the bigger swells, they arent interested in 4ft in between
plenty of other spots if you look
further south gets a few peoples when its like this too
So another week of no surf. And today I was tossing up whether to go or not and the wind swung onshore and I made the call not to go. I did a few jobs and ended up driving Hillarys to Trigg stretch later in the afternoon and turns out it would've been fun. Not clean, but not too messy. I don't even know if I'll have time on the weekend but we'll see.
Maybe everyone should head north for the weekend. Look at the pics jjd posted! C Ya everyone....
I was grinding and drilling and cutting and wiring this weekend, modding a trailer. I wasn't really motivated yesterday, but today it just looked so tempting. At one stage I downed tools and had a look and the wind had disappeared altogether and it was glass so I couldn't resist. Squeezed in a couple of hours at 2nd carpark. It was a bit busy with a few capable surfers and frothing groms, but it was fun. Strong rip, sucky, wedgy and a few little A-frames. A couple of the 15 year old groms were fitting in little pits, but I'm a bit big for that. Still, fun 1'ers and a few 2'ers.
No banks really at Trigg-Scarborough though. A bit more size and it'd be closing out majorly. Everywhere else was mostly closing out too, 2nd carpark was one of the few spots with banks.
Tuesday looking good (not for me). Wednesday maybe too.
dont know about you guys, but my arms are wasted after today. anyone else score the picture perfect?
got the LAGO session to sunset yesterday, magic conditions, head high
thought is was uncrowded when I pulled into the car park and only 5 cars, then 5 cars with three people in each pulled within 5min
frustrating to get waves but the ones i scored were sweet.
spot1 reported head high waves in bali this week. they going to medewi today
Um, so I got appendicitis on Tuesday and just out of hospital today. My release papers say 4-6 weeks out of the water, but we'll see. I guess I missed a few potentially good days.
Why so long out of that water?
Need to heal where they rip your stomach muscles apart. I'll see how it goes though. I'll be tending more towards the 4 than the 6.
On the way home from the doctor today we went past the beach. No banks at all compared with usual at this time of year, but a passable occasional 3' wave and only 7 guys out. I was itching to paddle out, but there's no way I could at this stage. I wonder if I'll surf it again this winter? Only had two sessions out there this year, closes for surfing in about 6 weeks.
