Forums > Surfing Shortboards

Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

Reply
Created by doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
Legion
WA, 2222 posts
16 Jan 2012 9:48PM
Thumbs Up

Well, yeah. It was suba's secret name for his local spot.

newguy
654 posts
16 Jan 2012 10:45PM
Thumbs Up

Not surprisingly has been pretty straight all w/e -> week at Perth's most popular beach break.
Off topic but how is the shoulder Legion? Are you still doing your rehab on top of surfing? Just remember not to over do it mate

Legion
WA, 2222 posts
16 Jan 2012 11:02PM
Thumbs Up

As with all things, it doesn't hurt in the water. Out of the water it's mostly OK except when I overdo it. I didn't really do any rehab - the stuff I was given was mostly ROM stuff and my ROM is OK. My personal rehab has been teaching myself clean and jerk . Surprisingly that's been going alright, although I've only been lifting very low weights and reps. I always wanted to be able to clean and jerk but have had at least one bad shoulder for many years.

After a long paddle session it hurts, especially in conditions like today (constant paddling for a couple of hours). NSAIDs help. That's about the only time I've been taking them, post-surf.

Hmmm
1 posts
17 Jan 2012 10:52AM
Thumbs Up

Anybody notice the swell seems to have picked up. Much more than our recent run of 'dick hieghts'

Yours truly
Long time lurcher.

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
17 Jan 2012 11:12AM
Thumbs Up

Hmmm said...

Anybody notice the swell seems to have picked up. Much more than our recent run of 'dick hieghts'

Yours truly
Long time lurcher.


Agreed, and welcome

bakesy
WA, 682 posts
17 Jan 2012 12:11PM
Thumbs Up

went to the usual this morning, everything seemed right, swell,tide and wind. Nothing on offer, could see a lumpy horizon but it seemed to bypass us so I hope those that went offshore or north scored because we got zilch, not even enough to make a few "magnets" worth the paddle, to make things worse I gaffered up the wound, I was hanging out and certain enough to do it at 5am, not fun taking it off

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
17 Jan 2012 1:39PM
Thumbs Up

Legion said...

Well, yeah. It was suba's secret name for his local spot.


Yep, double over head pits all day long.

mocha1
WA, 933 posts
17 Jan 2012 1:42PM
Thumbs Up

Went to secret spot north this morn, admit others have discovered it too, I blame wanna surf and all other posters. Oh yeah and all that building of new suburbs of ranch.... Oh shizen have I revealed too much..........

Anyway wind was souther there as always but still got a cupla worth the drive, swell smaller than predicted tho.

Gotta laugh at ANGRY guy cursin an screaming his way thru his session he was having a wonderful time, not! wonder why he was even out there?

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
17 Jan 2012 6:25PM
Thumbs Up

Was angry guy 45ish with greying hair, reasonable surfer on a retro-ish board driving a silver/grey GU Patrol?

Gotta wonder why he bothers if it makes him that angry hey?

62mac
WA, 24860 posts
17 Jan 2012 7:22PM
Thumbs Up

Dam those longboarders

newguy
654 posts
18 Jan 2012 12:09PM
Thumbs Up

62mac said...

Dam those longboarders


If you can't beat them, join them think I picked up the best bargain yesterday for a mini mal. 62mac, how do you stop yourself from nosediving? Found myself jarring it after popping up compared to when I was on my little fish or shorty

Still the same: waist high closeouts.

62mac
WA, 24860 posts
18 Jan 2012 12:15PM
Thumbs Up

Sorry mate its against the rules to talk LB come over to the Beer Garden forum and we can have a chat

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
18 Jan 2012 1:03PM
Thumbs Up

newguy said...

62mac said...

Dam those longboarders


If you can't beat them, join them think I picked up the best bargain yesterday for a mini mal. 62mac, how do you stop yourself from nosediving? Found myself jarring it after popping up compared to when I was on my little fish or shorty

Still the same: waist high closeouts.


Dont ask mac he dosnt surf as you paddle in, do it on an angle and try to keep the rail tight against the face. Once you do it you a few times it will get easy.
Best thing is watch a few LB dvds for technique.

GPA
WA, 2520 posts
18 Jan 2012 1:44PM
Thumbs Up

newguy said...

62mac said...

Dam those longboarders


If you can't beat them, join them think I picked up the best bargain yesterday for a mini mal. 62mac, how do you stop yourself from nosediving? Found myself jarring it after popping up compared to when I was on my little fish or shorty

Still the same: waist high closeouts.



You may also be too far forward on the mini-mal (in the paddling position), and when you pop up your weight is forward of centre...and the nose catches the water. [I do this sometimes when I first surf the 9'1" after a few weeks on the fish]

62mac
WA, 24860 posts
18 Jan 2012 2:36PM
Thumbs Up

newguy said...

62mac said...

Dam those longboarders


If you can't beat them, join them think I picked up the best bargain yesterday for a mini mal. 62mac, how do you stop yourself from nosediving? Found myself jarring it after popping up compared to when I was on my little fish or shorty

Still the same: waist high closeouts.


It takes great skill,grace and strength to ride a 901 mate

Doggie and GPA are on the money I swear I've seen Doggie riding Longboards come to think of it,I've NEVER seen him on a Shortboard

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
18 Jan 2012 3:01PM
Thumbs Up

62mac said...

newguy said...

62mac said...

Dam those longboarders


If you can't beat them, join them think I picked up the best bargain yesterday for a mini mal. 62mac, how do you stop yourself from nosediving? Found myself jarring it after popping up compared to when I was on my little fish or shorty

Still the same: waist high closeouts.


It takes great skill,grace and strength to ride a 901 mate

Doggie and GPA are on the money I swear I've seen Doggie riding Longboards come to think of it,I've NEVER seen him on a Shortboard


Thats true, but it was round three of the LB world tour, so I couldnt use my shortie

62mac
WA, 24860 posts
18 Jan 2012 3:14PM
Thumbs Up

The beers won that day

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
18 Jan 2012 3:23PM
Thumbs Up

62mac said...

The beers won that day


And bears

PaddlePig
WA, 421 posts
18 Jan 2012 5:59PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
If you can't beat them, join them think I picked up the best bargain yesterday for a mini mal. 62mac, how do you stop yourself from nosediving? Found myself jarring it after popping up compared to when I was on my little fish or shorty


I highly doubt I have the longboarding capabilities of the blokes here, but here's some things I find work for me.

I bend my back ridiculously like the shape of a banana. If it is a fat mellow wave, then sit further forward but arch your back right up and paddle. At the last moment, throw yourself forward and it will slide down the wave face.

Oppositely, if the wave is a bit sucky for the mal, I do the reverse. Sit where you normally would, and at the last moment, sort of pause and rear back like a banana to kind of semi-stall the mal right before you snap to you feet.

On top of this, angle of attack is so so important on a longer board. It isn't a short board where you can take of late and just smash the back foot down and she'll be right. It isn't a short board where you can take off left, not like what you see and rip it right simply by twitching. The longer board really wants to glide onto the shoulder. Sit further out the back than you normally would, and semi hunt down the wave. You've got the paddle speed... just work on putting the plank in the right position in the wave (the shoulder).

Hope this helps somewhat, like I said though, I'm not the best surfer by any means!

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
18 Jan 2012 6:51PM
Thumbs Up

Somewhere today.






bakesy
WA, 682 posts
18 Jan 2012 7:29PM
Thumbs Up

score wish I was there

Legion
WA, 2222 posts
18 Jan 2012 8:09PM
Thumbs Up

There's no way that's 4 foot!!1! And thanks a lot, giving the location away .

Torch
WA, 521 posts
18 Jan 2012 8:24PM
Thumbs Up

Off to the island tomorrow...again

sparki
WA, 410 posts
18 Jan 2012 8:35PM
Thumbs Up




I reckon those surfers would have been enjoying a pretty fine light show.

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
18 Jan 2012 8:57PM
Thumbs Up

Legion said...

There's no way that's 4 foot!!1! And thanks a lot, giving the location away .


How was work today?

Have you given your martian ray gun a thrashing yet? End result looks the goods.
Ride report?

Legion
WA, 2222 posts
18 Jan 2012 9:40PM
Thumbs Up

Just arrived at the depot today. Need to schedule a time to pick it up.

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
19 Jan 2012 8:47AM
Thumbs Up

Legion said...

Just arrived at the depot today. Need to schedule a time to pick it up.


I doubt you will put any pics up

jjd
WA, 705 posts
19 Jan 2012 9:25AM
Thumbs Up

smicko said...

Somewhere today.









Nice!

(Do you not have a job?)

surferstu
1011 posts
19 Jan 2012 9:47AM
Thumbs Up

doggie said...

Legion said...

Just arrived at the depot today. Need to schedule a time to pick it up.


I doubt you will put any pics up


heres a sneak preview for ya


subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
19 Jan 2012 10:05AM
Thumbs Up

Bloody hell, you weren't kidding smicko



Subscribe
Reply

Forums > Surfing Shortboards


"Legions surf report :: Daily updates.." started by doggie