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Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

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Created by doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
fuall
WA, 375 posts
1 Apr 2012 4:55AM
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at least u are surfin and not on some fricken oil rig!

Andy T
WA, 325 posts
1 Apr 2012 7:52AM
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I'm hearing ya Fuel! I'm stuck in sunny Cairns all week. Been so long for me i'm starting to think i can surf the ripples over here lucky don't have a board with me

Hey Suba, if it's ya b'day... Have a good one and keep the forum rolling

Hamsta
505 posts
1 Apr 2012 11:41AM
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PaddlePig said...

I'm not the best surfer by any stretch of the imagination, so let's get that out of the way...

But gee Trigg was ****. i hate that **** hole. Anywhere between Brighton to Trigg is ****. But ended up surfing it this morning. What a heap of rubbish. Straight lumps onto shallow sand, either sharing with boogs or kooks or wanna-be pros who are still surfing trigg/scarb.

Went to usually place around mettams (never said I was a good surfer) and that was crowded; pile of rubbish!

Here's the report fellas, it's crap!





Shame there were no waves

Buster fin
WA, 2573 posts
1 Apr 2012 9:58PM
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I hear ya PPig! Got out for a few yesty, early. Most depressing.
Got out for an onshore thrashing this arvo and had heaps more fun.

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
2 Apr 2012 1:16PM
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Wasn't supposed to surf Yesterday but woke up and wind was light so went out front of my house for an hour at best and it was not that bad. Had to do a fare bit of talking to the bin lidders to get them loosen up there grip on the whole place but enjoyed it..

I Was desperate to get out as i had only the night before finally bit the bullet and bought a brand new Super Fish 2 and was very keen to see if I'd done the right thing

nutsy
WA, 45 posts
2 Apr 2012 1:16PM
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Oh yeah surf was crowded and dissapointing. And i wasnt even surfing in perth!!!

Edit: it was dissappointingly crowded. Rocked up to a spot that usually has no more than about a dozen crew on it. On sat there was over 30 out. But there was some fun ones coming through, maybe head high, and everyone got a few

I really shouldn't post stuff when I'm half cut, always seems to come out wrong.

Good week for some onshore bashing on the west coast guys! might get some banks too!

GPA
WA, 2519 posts
2 Apr 2012 2:58PM
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jbshack said...

Wasn't supposed to surf Yesterday but woke up and wind was light so went out front of my house for an hour at best and it was not that bad. Had to do a fare bit of talking to the bin lidders to get them loosen up there grip on the whole place but enjoyed it..

I Was desperate to get out as i had only the night before finally bit the bullet and bought a brand new Super Fish 2 and was very keen to see if I'd done the right thing


Hey JB - what size did you get and epoxy or poly... I'm still waiting for a decent day to ride my new 7'3" epoxy - on hols Thursday for two weeks and there's a 5m swell at Gero later this week so hopefully I'll get something decent to talk about...

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
2 Apr 2012 4:11PM
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GPA said...

jbshack said...

Wasn't supposed to surf Yesterday but woke up and wind was light so went out front of my house for an hour at best and it was not that bad. Had to do a fare bit of talking to the bin lidders to get them loosen up there grip on the whole place but enjoyed it..

I Was desperate to get out as i had only the night before finally bit the bullet and bought a brand new Super Fish 2 and was very keen to see if I'd done the right thing


Hey JB - what size did you get and epoxy or poly... I'm still waiting for a decent day to ride my new 7'3" epoxy - on hols Thursday for two weeks and there's a 5m swell at Gero later this week so hopefully I'll get something decent to talk about...


They wanted me to get a 6'8" but i went the 6'6" set up as a quad. What i wanted they said i would get, a better speed transfer from paddling to surfing. I just seemed to catch waves and then almost needed to start again before but with this i just jumped up and had speed straight up. Beat the section's easy. To be far only got a hand full of waves with 20 bin lidders around me, but was very happy. Of to Albany this weekend so hopefully something constructive.

Best part was debating with the young lidders. i told them its a proven fact that the Surfers get the girls and lidders just get there mates and crappy surf..

That got me a few waves surprisingly..

Bit of swell and a bit of beach beating maybe our local point may start to work then we can compare..

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
2 Apr 2012 4:28PM
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Sorry GPA its the Poly version. Double Dip.. Thats how i felt when i first saw them but its grown on me..

I actually should say that last week i saw a couple of locals at Trigg and got talking with them. Both liked the SF and one was Tom from vidlers so i rang him later, talked a bit more and was driving past late on Sat so dropped past to look again. Ended up leaving with the board ("should have got flowers for war office". note to self for next time)

Great guy who seemed to really now what he was on about. I had been watching him at the point as well and he rips..

Good to get some great advice and old fassioned service..

Sorry for the Add..

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
2 Apr 2012 5:25PM
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Cott was a bit of fun when there was only 3 of us out there. Gave us plenty of space to chase the waves...lasted about an hour before it just got packed out.

sparki
WA, 410 posts
2 Apr 2012 7:19PM
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subasurf said...

Cott was a bit of fun when there was only 3 of us out there. Gave us plenty of space to chase the waves...lasted about an hour before it just got packed out.


early this morning?

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
2 Apr 2012 7:36PM
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nah mate, just after noon. Was really messy but when the right ones came through it was a treat.

EDIT: talking about the beach side by the way, not the reef.

sparki
WA, 410 posts
2 Apr 2012 8:18PM
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was the seaweed still there? once again, only three of us in the water early this morning. some nice little ones to be had, but there always seemed to be a big strand of seaweed on takeoff - wherever the takeoff shifted to.

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
2 Apr 2012 8:30PM
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Yeah mate, plenty. Quite a bit of limestone still exposed in shore too. Found out the stupid way.

GPA
WA, 2519 posts
2 Apr 2012 9:19PM
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jbshack said...

Sorry GPA its the Poly version. Double Dip...

...so dropped past to look again. Ended up leaving with the board ("should have got flowers for war office". note to self for next time)



HaHa - yeah I went to have a look - and whilst I didn't come home with one, I had placed an order and put down $500... apparently, I got the first one to hit WA (only 15 in Oz, and two > WA). My Mrs had just been away again [Melb] for the second time in a month, so no flowers req'd

I'll keep an eye out for you at that other point... once it starts working I tend to check it most weekends... hopefully the NW'er will stir things up a bit... it's woeful at the moment. Also hope the weed stays away this year - bleck!

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
5 Apr 2012 9:05AM
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Lookin like a great weekend of waves, hope you all get some good ones

sparki
WA, 410 posts
5 Apr 2012 1:52PM
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did anyone head out to the northern beaches this morning between 9.30 n 10.30 or so? saw on the cams that the wind had swung ESE during that time. given the swell is still around 1m mark, that would have been awesome.

newguy
654 posts
5 Apr 2012 5:36PM
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sparki said...

did anyone head out to the northern beaches this morning between 9.30 n 10.30 or so? saw on the cams that the wind had swung ESE during that time. given the swell is still around 1m mark, that would have been awesome.


I saw that and raced down. Rocked up to howling southerlies and a washbowl So I paddled out onto the reefs. Big sets coming in. Speaking of big, I seem to be having trouble with duck diving when the swell kicks up. Anybody have any tips? Smaller stuff I manage well and even in the bigger stuff when it surges. It's just the whitewater that I can't seem to get past when the wave breaks. I'll dive and then get thrown around before I surface

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
5 Apr 2012 5:41PM
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newguy said...

sparki said...

did anyone head out to the northern beaches this morning between 9.30 n 10.30 or so? saw on the cams that the wind had swung ESE during that time. given the swell is still around 1m mark, that would have been awesome.


I saw that and raced down. Rocked up to howling southerlies and a washbowl So I paddled out onto the reefs. Big sets coming in. Speaking of big, I seem to be having trouble with duck diving when the swell kicks up. Anybody have any tips? Smaller stuff I manage well and even in the bigger stuff when it surges. It's just the whitewater that I can't seem to get past when the wave breaks. I'll dive and then get thrown around before I surface


Join the club mate, dive deep and a bit before the white water hits you. That will work 1 out of 3 times but its the way.

newguy
654 posts
5 Apr 2012 6:03PM
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and then 'doggie' paddle for your life past the next few sets ... Ain't fun with this >3m swell!

sparki
WA, 410 posts
5 Apr 2012 6:47PM
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newguy said...

sparki said...

did anyone head out to the northern beaches this morning between 9.30 n 10.30 or so? saw on the cams that the wind had swung ESE during that time. given the swell is still around 1m mark, that would have been awesome.


I saw that and raced down. Rocked up to howling southerlies and a washbowl So I paddled out onto the reefs. Big sets coming in. Speaking of big, I seem to be having trouble with duck diving when the swell kicks up. Anybody have any tips? Smaller stuff I manage well and even in the bigger stuff when it surges. It's just the whitewater that I can't seem to get past when the wave breaks. I'll dive and then get thrown around before I surface


heh. i was spewing that i was possibly missing something good while at work. all good that it wasnt. when it's big, take a few paddles towards the white wash so you have some momentum going into it. push your board down when the white water is maybe 3m away. mostly push down the nose, but it doesnt really matter too much - just make sure the board is a deep as possible while maintaining control. its all about timing, so when you feel the white water hit you, pull up with your hands and push down with you legs (you'll find it easiest with your knee, preferably into the tail pad so that you dont do damage to the glass... but just let it come naturally with practice). if you dont time it right, the white water will hit the top of the board, pushing it further down, out from under you. if you time it right, the white water hits the underside of your board, propelling you up and through the back of the wash.

hope that helps.

newguy
654 posts
5 Apr 2012 7:22PM
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Cheers bud, yeah you didn't miss out much. Decided I'd drive by a reef that offered more protection. Still a wash bowl although good size. Had little ramps on my take offs, thats how messy it was. Got a couple waves then I went under and hit a reef. Decided the carpark looked much safer so paddled in as I was already late for work

TimKay
752 posts
5 Apr 2012 10:31PM
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The start of Easter
Let the carnage begin

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
6 Apr 2012 4:14PM
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TimKay said...

The start of Easter
Let the carnage begin


I had a quick look in front of my place and it was great, but sadly forgot the lawn mower so went back to bed. Hopefully Albany will be better

paulford
WA, 312 posts
6 Apr 2012 4:33PM
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TimKay said...

The start of Easter
Let the carnage begin


Drove past Leighton/ Cottesloe reefs this morn looking for a wave to bodysurf(nursing injured ribs). No room to turn a board on a wave never mind surf one i thought. I wouldnt have been so popular i thinks. I turned around and hit the beach break before the dog beach . Must of been hellish further north.

sparki
WA, 410 posts
6 Apr 2012 5:36PM
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paulford said...

TimKay said...

The start of Easter
Let the carnage begin


Drove past Leighton/ Cottesloe reefs this morn looking for a wave to bodysurf(nursing injured ribs). No room to turn a board on a wave never mind surf one i thought. I wouldnt have been so popular i thinks. I turned around and hit the beach break before the dog beach . Must of been hellish further north.


ahhh, love the northern beaches for that very reason! shifting peaks catching everyone off guard at certain points in time today, giving everyone a ride. wasnt epic, but there were some nice little make-able barrels on some waves; i even found myself on a multi turn wave!

but damn its good to have some clean, size-able waves again!

bakesy
WA, 682 posts
6 Apr 2012 7:39PM
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not too bad this morning



swalkington
WA, 401 posts
7 Apr 2012 8:49AM
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Looks shallow bakesy. Was the sand washed off the reef from this weeks storm?

bakesy
WA, 682 posts
7 Apr 2012 9:44AM
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nah, if anything more sand than usual

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
7 Apr 2012 3:30PM
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Looks like too much west in it too.



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"Legions surf report :: Daily updates.." started by doggie