I still paddle out almost every day (as long as it's worth it), but I'm jumpy and there have been lots of weed patches the last few weeks. I don't like weed patches. Today - sandy bottom, clear water. Sorta place I'd never worry about - just like Wedge. But the odd dark patch on the bottom has my nerves on edge.
Wave, by 0.5s. Eyes drift to the dark patches. Heading to Camel country in a few weeks too, so that's going to be fun.
Creased a 4 day old board (Surf day) today in thick barreling rights. F**kin devo'd. ah well newie getting shaped tomoz Phew!!
Here's to the wind forecast being slightly wrong...again!!!... and those real light 6 kn NWester is a real light 6 NEaster in the early hours of FATHERS DAY
(All I wanna do for fathers day is have a surf but usually cant because it is FATHERS DAY - sleep in little buggers sleep in)
cant remember if he did on that wave but he got plenty good waves
this were just a few quick snaps when I got out, 2 days of epic swell
but the wave above I would rate 2nd to Camel's video as good as I have seen
was ridden as far as the wave can go - nearly to the bommie
bigger tomorrow and even bigger wed - WTF!
Good overhead size waves today at a place close to recent shark attack. Overcast super sharky cloudy conditions and inconsistent.. hard to not think about it
some Pumping waves at "secret un named" metro beachies, bit of a wait between fire hose rips and backwash but when that one comes---yeeeeehaaaaa
(side note - my new Katana quad is a rocket ship. GET ONE)
happy fathers day to those of us who are, plenty of em out in the surf early too