Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

i would have called you smico but it was going to be a 2 day mish,sailed back last night after a dive ,lost the ski again snapped the tow line in the 30kt southerly, fun for my mate swimming for it in that breezethen got the tow line wrapped around one of the props

all the size ones had eggs heaps of kacka"s ,kind of eary didnt see any one else diving

Had a packed day ahead of me Saturday, had to be at the Cricket at 10 and had a party straight after that (first world problem ha ha). Decided to head to my local reefy, swell was forecast as big but noticed the direction might stunt it a bit.

Got there about 30 min after sunrise, crowded but not in the usual places, it was a bit shifty, fat etc but I was a man on a mission so lowered the expectation and paddled out over the super shallow reef thanks to the low tide and out into the line up.

I could not believe the amount of people having a winge about the 'wrong' forecast ha ha! I was having a ball managing a few fun ones, missing some, calling in guys when I couldnt get on the face and all the while half the people around me were having a cry It was the first day of Summer so I was just glad there was a wave at all

Southern beachie was so fun today on the 9'1 mal, even got a couple of little head dips on the inside. Just me & a guy riding a very interesting board. Looks like the front 6 foot of a snapped mal with a deep concave, no fins & like just totally straight tail like a mal had snapped & he'd just dug out the concave & glassed the end lol...I got talking to him & he said to feel how light it was & yeah I was shocked how super light it was. He was doing really well on it too, riding along the face no worries & doing 360 floaters on just about every wave. It was really cool to watch : )

Ahhh very nice mate, make it yourself? Love the wooden boards...It was very similar in outline, but differed in a couple of key ways . See how yours curves in a little into the tail. This other board was dead straight with a very pronounced single concave allowing for a sharp angled rail & negating the need for fins. The angular bottom of the board would also add strength I reckon & yep it was epoxy...Man I've felt some light boards, but this thing was superlight & performed really well in the waist to chest height waves : )

He told me it was 6' & I reckon it would have been about 22 wide. It wasn't really thick looking like a sweet potato & it had that deep single concave, rather than a double like the SP. Doubt it was 3 on the rail, probably about 2 & 3/4 & it had no rocker, just a little bit of kick on the nose. Looked a little like a 6' snowboard when he was up & riding : P

.............back on topic.

Its going to be a long week

Couple of lids chancing it on a dry slab over on rotto, that was all that was available. No crays either

Mite be some nice banks if we are lucky

Nice

Cycle past report: 1:00pm

No one out Hillary's to Trigg 3rds - not even a kiter... Swell coming up, but a very unsettled ocean. Weed everywhere!!

Been having a good spring over this way, but nothing like what you guys get out in the west

^^^
Good on you... I can't do it... just don't function at that time of day (night!).

Waited for the 9:00am shift change and did ok at a less popular beachie - a bit wonky and rippy, but some shape and length of rides when it all lined up.

Got to the Perth Surf Circus at around 9.30
Some pretty good waves rolling in but typical crowd, typical wannabe pros, etc etc
Scored a few though.

A bit smaller than yesty, but ditto otherwise.