^^^
Really - 35min? It takes me that long to get into it some days...
I can't surf to the clock - I had a 90min window last Friday morning and although I got a few never felt settled as I knew I had somewhere else to be... that's why I struggle with the pre-work surf I guess.
Right JB, one good ride and I'm stoked whether its a 2hr or 10min session.
Quality far out ways quantity for me
I surf most days of the week but am lucky to get more than 30 minutes. If I am pressed for time, which is usually the case, I might go out and get 6 waves. Might take 15 minutes, might take 45. Always feel better for it.
Yeah, a nice luxury to be 100m from the waves all day. Sometimes glad I can't actually see it as it would send you crazy not being able to get out.
Within gunshot distance of bolgo. Apparently the go-to once secret place in these conditions had 100 out (probably exaggeration). Much less where I was, and fun. Antarctic wind.
I just couldn't bring myself to paddle out yesterday. Inside artos was OK but I didn't particularly want to go solo and it would've been a gamble to be in the right spot at the right time.
Today's place had a handful yesterday but it was a struggle. I could've but I piked.
Shame about the swell.
I personally find the place a bit of a joke. It's great when you jag it and not many are out. But at the end of the day, it is usually small. Even in big swell, it is still not that big. It's a bit over rated. The problem is also that every wanna be pro goes there in the storms, and every learner/longboarder/SUP also think they have right to the place. Massively crowded at times.
Surfed it one day last year 4', biggest ever for me. One of the bigger storms of the winter, four guys out.
Always dirty, diseasey water. Dead sheep's heads on one occasion last year. You feel wrong when you get out, like you need a movie-style radiation scrub-down.
I know I sound like a broken record, going on about the "good old days" but that joint used to get so good. Just A frames up and down the beach. And Tearooms? Sheeeeez, big bowling lefts from out past the groyne to the pylon. Had a share house in John street for a couple of winters in my late teens and that joint was nuts.
No exaggeration this winter. There's no sandbanks.
The reef is Dummies. It's still there in summer. Was there about a month ago. I think it's covered now.
smicko, scored days like those described into the late 90's. Checked that storm spot around 11, car park was full, and the road was lined up with parked cars too. Looked chest high at best. Scored some fun hollow bigger wind wedges further north and only had to share with my brother.
Yeah I agree with above. It seems if the car park is packed there's every chance it's only chest high sometimes and every dog is having a sniff.
Blooody freeeezing this morning, sprinted to the water to defrost the feet!
Beautiful conditions, waves were a bit poo but still had fun and bugger me, in metro areas thats what it is all about!
Better than the gym - I sprint down the beach, mindful not to stub the toe , paddle out, get about 45min in , get out and sprint to the car, get changed while the car is warming up and then shoot to work - could do that everyday conditions permitting
Not as big as I thought, was a lot of South in the swell and it was dropping fast.
Combination of conditions made it not as good as I thought, still worth a punt and a quick wave though.
Mustg admit I felt like a pussy when I was running down with my feet numb and an elderly couple in speedos and one peice swim suit were casually strolling past me with a big grin on there face!
Wow, I haven't surfed for 12 days before today-I thought it was ok!
Amazing what a forced drought will do to perception of "**** Perth waves"
Any day surfing better than a day not surfing-unless it involves a derby win and Jen hawkins