Forums > Surfing Shortboards

Try hards, Plastics and the Real Surfer

Reply
Created by WATER MAN > 9 months ago, 2 Feb 2012
WATER MAN
WA, 139 posts
2 Feb 2012 4:51AM
Thumbs Up

When I was growing up there was a lot of BS going around about what makes a real surfer.
I remember some kids saying if you weren't at the beach at the crack of dawn you were just a plastic.
I also remember the amount of crap that was given over the try hards. The ones who would be in the water from sun up to sun down given it all trying to get that bit better cause surfing didn't come second nature.

This was just a teenage pecking order that seemed to sought itself out as time went on. Often the loud mouth would be one of the first ones to stop surfing and get fat and unfit. But it was allways the surfers giving it to each other.

What has got me stuffed is the loud mouth dribble and abuse that is now coming from esky lidders! How in the world can some pimple faced twat who has 2 legs but chooses to lay flat and surf have the cheek to abuse any kid attempting and giving it his best to stand on his her own 2 feet. For some crazy reason the lidders have climbed the ranks to think they have the given right to abuse board riders. I still and never will believe that body boarding is close to stand up.
Body boards have there place like, late take off's, close outs and green room time.
Most of these kids will not even attempt getting on the knees and showing any development skills at all.

I have had my cry now and plan to take some action in the water.

CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
2 Feb 2012 7:05AM
Thumbs Up

I know a few ex pro bodyboarders. As they became men they have all pretty much lost the boog and gone to stand up, others have just stopped altogether as they are embarrassed to ride boog but don't want to be an average stand up surfer. Many of the good Boogers make an easy transition, especially if they ride dropknee. Positioning and reading the waves and ocean is a huge part of surfing, they already have this.

I don't mind boogs as they seem to have their spots they surf that suit them, it is kind of funny seeing a 40 year old bloke bounce across a fat point break though.

crustt
VIC, 190 posts
2 Feb 2012 8:54AM
Thumbs Up

I like boogers, the main reason being that that by there early 20's they have given up. We have a few guys around 50 surfing lids around here, they call them selves ofol(old farts on lids) more than not they have a better time than us in the shifty beach breaks down here

WATER MAN
WA, 139 posts
2 Feb 2012 7:22AM
Thumbs Up

Your right I do see a place for lids in the surf, but that is doing fun crazy **** that is built on crazy break your neck stuff rather than technical stuff. I do go out on a lid after I am stuffed from surfing and having a hard time getting on to a wave ( about 3 hours into a session ) but I don't start on people cause I am now taking off deeper. I just don't understand how lid riders can put themselves in the same level when they can't stand on a board. ( The ones who can't drop knee or stand up).

bakesy
WA, 682 posts
2 Feb 2012 7:43AM
Thumbs Up

agree with ya Pete, I was one of the first to ride one at The Point in the old days, copped a bit of crap but said nothing and waited my turn. I think due to the fact that myself and a couple of other guys showed respect and it was a novelty we did OK. I progressed to the kneelo in my late teens and despite the crippo label kneelos had a bit of history and a rep as good tube riders so we went alright, still had the stigma of not standing up but due to the boards looking pretty much like surfboards we fit in a bit more than the lids. It's funny how the spots you and I frequent rarely see lidders so it's not much of an issue to me

Prawnhead
NSW, 1317 posts
2 Feb 2012 12:14PM
Thumbs Up

i like em too ,i would rather run over a lid than another board anyday !!
i "try" to give every person the same amount of respect
although i don't see too many people paddling inside thornto at teahupoo


(he was also responsible for the amazing inside the barrel footage in whoisJOB by riding high enough above JO"B in the barrel to allow JO'B to ride around him , you don't really think about how they got the shot unless you look hard at the sequence)

soleman
WA, 280 posts
2 Feb 2012 11:17AM
Thumbs Up

^^^not that exciting really. Much prefered to see AI or CJ hobgood surfing it. Can't really understand why some one would prefer to ride a lid.

PaddlePig
WA, 421 posts
2 Feb 2012 1:51PM
Thumbs Up

I do not like boogs. I like kids on boogs because they are kids and I can understand mum or dad taking their kids to the beach. I don't like tribes of noisy teens and even worse, tribes of 20 somethings on boogs. It is like playing with lego... I'm sure it is GREAt fun, but afterall, it is for kids and it needs to stop once you're all grown up.

One of my later blues in the surf was with an arrogant lid.

Prawnhead
NSW, 1317 posts
2 Feb 2012 5:51PM
Thumbs Up

soleman said...

^^^not that exciting really. Much prefered to see AI or CJ hobgood surfing it. Can't really understand why some one would prefer to ride a lid.

completely agree ,i would normally rather watch paint dry although it still takes kahunas to take off on waves of that sort of consequence regardless ,the major issue i have when surfing with lids is that postioning in the lineup, or when they paddle for a wave, is nowhere near as critical for them,so they takeoff anywhere and everywhere,which unlesss you are familiar with results in complete bedlam. With a decent set of fins on they can out catch anyone on a board if they want . Where i live the lids outnumber surfers so it is the norm for young fellas to ride lids


i

WATER MAN
WA, 139 posts
3 Feb 2012 6:22AM
Thumbs Up

So Does anyone know the true characteristics of a true surfer?

Rex
WA, 949 posts
3 Feb 2012 9:08AM
Thumbs Up

WATER MAN said...

So Does anyone know the true characteristics of a true surfer?


It's too subjective, it could be:
the pro surfer selling out to corporate surfing
the dole bludger that gets 8 hours of water time a day
the family guy with the full time job that has been surfing consistent for 25 years
the mysto charger
the guy that gets up at 5 am every day and posts the surf report on the internets

Maybe easier to look at the characteristics of the false surfer

For me its the guy/gal that enjoys a good session.

thommo50
QLD, 49 posts
3 Feb 2012 11:50AM
Thumbs Up

Started my boys out on lids to teach them about positioning around the wave(take off, lefts/rights surf rules etc without having to worry about paddling/standing up/pitching) but they progressed to the board happily. Myself I started out with a half broken coolite board(other half being the brothers') Been surfing now myself for 30+yrs (and still on the shortboard)and there's nothing better to be out surfing with family and seeing the smile on their faces Lids have their time and place....just not around me, they're usually ridden by kids who have no idea of surf etiquette. (lots of board riders also fit into that category)

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
3 Feb 2012 1:06PM
Thumbs Up

Checked a sopt near me last night and stand upers were 2 to 18 lidders. Was watching the lidder run right over each other

AndreC
WA, 512 posts
13 Feb 2012 1:07AM
Thumbs Up

Waste of good waves

Prawnhead said...

i like em too ,i would rather run over a lid than another board anyday !!
i "try" to give every person the same amount of respect
although i don't see too many people paddling inside thornto at teahupoo

(he was also responsible for the amazing inside the barrel footage in whoisJOB by riding high enough above JO"B in the barrel to allow JO'B to ride around him , you don't really think about how they got the shot unless you look hard at the sequence)



Adapt
QLD, 723 posts
13 Feb 2012 8:21AM
Thumbs Up

WATER MAN said...

So Does anyone know the true characteristics of a true surfer?


The guy/girl that has respect for the ocean, the creatures in it, respects other surfers in the line up and their right to share the rush of surfing, but most importantly ask any surfer why they surf and the story will be different.

stuk
NSW, 893 posts
15 Feb 2012 6:00PM
Thumbs Up

We used to call them "shark biscuits", so yeah they have their place, better them than me

PaddlePig
WA, 421 posts
15 Feb 2012 4:26PM
Thumbs Up

I'd rather see a wave go unridden than see a lid riding it with their stupid mouth open in awe of the fact their sliding on their stomach. I'd rather see it go unridden than hear them talking to each other about 'that SECTION". I don't like it.



Subscribe
Reply

Forums > Surfing Shortboards


"Try hards, Plastics and the Real Surfer" started by WATER MAN