I have damaged the nose of my board. It's a JP FSW 2008. See picture below. I think it was originally damaged by previous owner and I have opened up an old wound by walking it into a fence post.
Now my question(s) is/are.
Do I need to do something about this?
What are my options for a diy repair?
Is it worth getting something down by a pro? and if so what would be the ball park costs? And who?
Sorry it's too hard to see exactly what's happened there.
It looks like it may just be the top layer of bog/paint that's lifted off.
If that's so and the fibreglass underneath isn't damaged at all, then all it needs is a light sand and some new bog/paint.
If the fibreglass is cracked or damaged, the damage needs to be sanded out and re-glassed.
i agree with decrepit
though i can't imagine anyone bogging a spot on their board for nothing, i'd be guessing it has probably been squashed by something at the least
if you put the bung in it, stick it in the sun for a couple of hours and see if any moisture comes out. if nothing comes out, forget the spot even exists......... and go for a sail 
(or bog it back up)
a bit of exposed glass up the nose gives better grip for vulcans
I'd use a small blade to remove the rest of that loose stuff, it may be hiding damage.
Over time, sunlight degrades epoxy resin, it turns a yucky brown colour, that's the main structural reason for painting boards.
With any luck the fibreglass should be water tight, if there's no damage.
Even if there's no damage, if the glass has been applied with insufficient resin, it may leak a little.
To test it, I'd prefer to apply suction to the breather, rather than pressurise the board.
If it leaks you should hear a whistle, a plastic tube in your ear can help locate it.
speaking of whistles...
after my last sail I removed the vent plug from the board and when I put the board in the car there was a very audible whistling sound coming from the vent - like a whistling kettle. I haven't noticed it before. Is this a bad sign?
Select to expand quoteleftfield said...
What are my options for a diy repair?
you will have to get rid of all the bog with a sander or something and then on the edge of the repair you rout out a square(most boards have a fine layer of filler) im in the middle of a project at the moment and useing mainly 2" carbon tape, you will notice a gas touch and roller, when you have finished with the roller let the resin set and burn it off when you want to use it , as you can see i'm about to glass the fin box's ' just run the tape along the strait routed edge, so when you need to sand the the repair will be flush
as you see the footstrapps are still on the board
sell it to me for next to nothing mate im not fickle about cosmetic stuff hahaha you know that just look at me 
Hi leftfield. Regarding one of the previous posts. Please don't use a router,gas torch or any carbon on this repair. If you do I'll expect to see you at our shed sometime soon.
It looks like a very basic repair. All you need to do is sand it back, 1 or 2 layers of 6oz cloth then fill and paint. If that doesn't make sense then message me and I can show you what to do if you're keen to do it your self.
I wouldn't normally reply to this but I can see some carnage happening if you start hacking into it with a router and a blow torch.
I would do the same as Hoops, pretty basic repair.
One other thing though, never use car bog where there is exposed foam as it will eat it away when it cures as it heats up, then you will have a big cavity under the glass which isn't good..
Agree with Hoops last thing that needs is a router. A sand back with 60 grade to get rid of any loose crap and see how ddep the loose crap goes, then glass with epoxy resin.
Sorry P.C have a call technicality there - it is not the heat that does it, it is the fact that polyester resin physically dissolves styro.
However heat will do it if you put a lot of epoxy in to fill a void it will melt foam due to heat as it cure.
Thanks for all the replies. Fortuanatley I have no routers, blow tourches or anything of that nature to cause any carnage with so the bored is safe..
i will sand back the area to check for more damage.
This web link may help you a bit boardlady.com/index.htm
I fixed my with "Selleys Plasti Bond but that was a small crack, have a look at a shop and read the back of the package.
True Mark Polyester Resin is a big destroyer of Styro, but i have also repaired a few boards where the owners have done a quick fix with car bog and it ain't pretty when you see whats underneath once you sand it...
what im trying to say is no mater what you do as far as repairing a board is you cant sand the beyond the repair
Hey dude, I had similar damage on one of my old boards. I did a repair job and put some pics up, check it out here: www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=41848
I didn't document how i cleaned the initial damage up, but you should sand it back and remove any damaged material. If the foam core is significantly damaged I think you can fill it with some expanding foam?
No offence to whoever repaired that board but it doesnt look very good. Whatever they have done id get rid of it cause it looks like they havent done a great job. Also from the picture it looks like it may have been repaired with chopped strand mat. Which is that stuff with short random fibres that go everywhere and shouldnt be used to repair a board. If you can spare the bucks take it to a board repairer if i had to guess from the pic id say not more than 5 or 6 hours for a pro to fix. If you want to fix it yourself dont be scared its really not that hard. Dont use polyester resin on your board as not only will it eat the foam but the board should be made with epoxy resin and polyester tech speaking wont stick to epoxy. Given boards have very low loads compared to other stuff you might get away with it but its not worth spending the time to do it wrong. There is heaps of websites on how to fix it prob more about surfboards which should be similar.
Keef a good trick to getting neat edges with wet glass/carbon cloth is to lay out some masking film 3M or similar (there are proper films avail but not many people buy them) put an over size piece of glass on it and wet it out. Then cut it to size. If you want you can put film on both sides to handle it like a dry piece more or less. Put it on the job with the glass/carbon down(no film in between double check to make sure!) then peel off the plastic carefully. Thats how most neat wet layed carbon jobs are done.
