The foot pads on my iSonic have given up. They have come loose and require replacements.
What are people using when replacing foot pads?
I had the same issue with my Acid.
Called Steve Stratfold and he did a great job of replacing them with a near new set off an "old" board he had. Not originals but look good and hopefully will last a few more years......and not a bad price given that newies seem to be hard to come by.
They are easy enough to get off an old board - slowly slowly with a razor blade under them and then glue on with waterbased (white, dries clear) Kwik Grip.
You'd find a near on free old board somewhere easily enough
Or if you want new, Hoop (Nude Boards) is getting them made up for his boards and he'd sell you a set I reckon?
Never throw out snapped boards - cut out the finboxes and cut off the pads
I've been getting mine from here,
www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/msg.asp?message=86
cheaper than any I could find in Oz
I used to use the ones from Squid grip but recently they've been a bit slippery.
yep, but I got mine from clark rubber, very cheap and seem to last. I shape mine with a right angle grinder, but think a router would do a neater job.
Hooksey,
The pads on both my 09 model iSonics have continually been the bane of my life. I'm continually regluing the thin upper layer of the EVA back onto the base layer. The big problem with the design of these footpads was the dual density two colour pads beautifully cut to match the livery of the board. They looked good but have proven to be hopeless in standing up to the rigours of continually going in and out of the footstraps. I notice SB have gone back to single colour and density pads on the '11 models like the '08 models previously (my '08 iSonic's footpads are still in perfect shape albeit they probably haven't had the same use as the other boards)
Sometime ago I tried sourcing SB replacement footstraps from the importer and was quoted $250 per set for the isonics - WTF
I had romantic ideas of what my home made pads would look like. I imagined routering intricate patterns which would result in a very 'professional' job. It ended up being pretty amateurish, and I recommend buying an extra pool tile to practice on.
The only problem with the Clark/Bunnings pool tiles is the two densities available seem to be either too soft or too hard. I've used both options and the high density was a bit slippery and solid. And the low density ones feel like pillows, kinda cool but I now feel a little detached from the board.
Maybe a combination of the two would be better. I made really deep heel bumpers in my last board and had about an inch of padding under my heels.
barn if you have a heat gun try it on your on your practice pad, the stuff im using is $5 from great out doors 600x600, if you score it with a blade or router then using the gun will raise the pattern already there aswell as seal the foam that you have routed, keep in mind you wont have to route a deep just lightly score the surface and the heat will do the rest
Both times I've made padz have been the half hour before hitting the water or at 3am in the morning of a 6am flight. Also by the time it comes to glueing the padz on I have been well and truly over the whole board building process. They work fine, even if the grooves are a bit wonky.
LOL Why did people red thumb me for doing an poor job with my padz? Geez they are mine, and I can do what I want with them. My wonky padz aren't hurting anybody... bunch of jerks.
a hot tip given to me for removing pads and boom grip effortlessly (which really works and doesn't seem to damage anything else) is to dip a rag in turps and wring it out a bit so its not dripping off everywhere, and lay it on the pad, then wrap the area with some plastic to keep it all moist.
the fumes soften the glue and within a few hours the pad virtually fall off, often with glue in tact, ready to be put back on the board without the need for new glue
interestingly (and thankfully) it doesn't seem to affect the paint.
i guess there's no guarentee it's not going to affect other paints, but it hasn't affected the couple of post 2000 year model boards i tried it on (and two alloy booms).
I picked up a couple of those inter-locking eva tiles from Clark Rubber, and did as Barn said, using a 45deg pinpoint router cutter, but went with a diagonal 'diamond-like' pattern. The downside is they are a bit thick, but very comfy!
[edit] Hey Barn, that is an incredibly ugly-looking board! I'm inspired! I repainted a board a while back after doing some glassing & repairs and was going to give the kids (5 & 7) some paint, walk away & let them go nuts on it, unfortunately there was a good wind the following day and I needed to put a sugarcoat on it, so it's still white.
I'm sick of 'pretty' graphics & symmetrical patterns, going to try to make it into the ugliest board ever!