Forums > Windsurfing General

Pads

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Created by Hooksey > 9 months ago, 20 Jun 2011
Hooksey
WA, 556 posts
20 Jun 2011 10:42PM
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The foot pads on my iSonic have given up. They have come loose and require replacements.

What are people using when replacing foot pads?

patsken
WA, 705 posts
21 Jun 2011 4:49PM
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I had the same issue with my Acid.

Called Steve Stratfold and he did a great job of replacing them with a near new set off an "old" board he had. Not originals but look good and hopefully will last a few more years......and not a bad price given that newies seem to be hard to come by.

Mark _australia
WA, 22380 posts
21 Jun 2011 5:41PM
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They are easy enough to get off an old board - slowly slowly with a razor blade under them and then glue on with waterbased (white, dries clear) Kwik Grip.
You'd find a near on free old board somewhere easily enough

Or if you want new, Hoop (Nude Boards) is getting them made up for his boards and he'd sell you a set I reckon?

Never throw out snapped boards - cut out the finboxes and cut off the pads

R1DER
WA, 1461 posts
21 Jun 2011 10:45PM
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I've been getting mine from here,
www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/msg.asp?message=86
cheaper than any I could find in Oz

I used to use the ones from Squid grip but recently they've been a bit slippery.

barn
WA, 2960 posts
21 Jun 2011 11:11PM
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Bunnings pool tiles and a pot of contact glue, you'll be the most popular person on the beach...

keef
NSW, 2016 posts
22 Jun 2011 9:36AM
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barn said...

Bunnings pool tiles and a pot of contact glue, you'll be the most popular person on the beach...


thats it all you need to do is lightly score then with a blade and the hit them with a heat gun it will open up the grooves and make the patern toughen up, you can add some toe grabbers at no extra $

decrepit
WA, 12137 posts
22 Jun 2011 6:03PM
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yep, but I got mine from clark rubber, very cheap and seem to last. I shape mine with a right angle grinder, but think a router would do a neater job.

Hooksey
WA, 556 posts
23 Jun 2011 8:20AM
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thanks guys - will have to do a bit of work on the weekend

sausage
QLD, 4873 posts
23 Jun 2011 11:29AM
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Hooksey,
The pads on both my 09 model iSonics have continually been the bane of my life. I'm continually regluing the thin upper layer of the EVA back onto the base layer. The big problem with the design of these footpads was the dual density two colour pads beautifully cut to match the livery of the board. They looked good but have proven to be hopeless in standing up to the rigours of continually going in and out of the footstraps. I notice SB have gone back to single colour and density pads on the '11 models like the '08 models previously (my '08 iSonic's footpads are still in perfect shape albeit they probably haven't had the same use as the other boards)

Sometime ago I tried sourcing SB replacement footstraps from the importer and was quoted $250 per set for the isonics - WTF

R1DER said...

I've been getting mine from here,
www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/msg.asp?message=86
cheaper than any I could find in Oz


Rider,
I contacted them and they have some good stock in heaps of colours and different grip patterns but they estimated shipping would be around $60 to $75 dollars making the process somewhat expensive.

Might just make up some of my own.

barn
WA, 2960 posts
23 Jun 2011 11:28AM
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I had romantic ideas of what my home made pads would look like. I imagined routering intricate patterns which would result in a very 'professional' job. It ended up being pretty amateurish, and I recommend buying an extra pool tile to practice on.

The only problem with the Clark/Bunnings pool tiles is the two densities available seem to be either too soft or too hard. I've used both options and the high density was a bit slippery and solid. And the low density ones feel like pillows, kinda cool but I now feel a little detached from the board.

Maybe a combination of the two would be better. I made really deep heel bumpers in my last board and had about an inch of padding under my heels.

keef
NSW, 2016 posts
23 Jun 2011 2:03PM
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barn if you have a heat gun try it on your on your practice pad, the stuff im using is $5 from great out doors 600x600, if you score it with a blade or router then using the gun will raise the pattern already there aswell as seal the foam that you have routed, keep in mind you wont have to route a deep just lightly score the surface and the heat will do the rest

barn
WA, 2960 posts
23 Jun 2011 12:39PM
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Both times I've made padz have been the half hour before hitting the water or at 3am in the morning of a 6am flight. Also by the time it comes to glueing the padz on I have been well and truly over the whole board building process. They work fine, even if the grooves are a bit wonky.

barn
WA, 2960 posts
23 Jun 2011 1:24PM
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LOL Why did people red thumb me for doing an poor job with my padz? Geez they are mine, and I can do what I want with them. My wonky padz aren't hurting anybody... bunch of jerks.

choco
SA, 4032 posts
23 Jun 2011 4:49PM
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barn said...

LOL Why did people red thumb me for doing an poor job with my padz? Geez they are mine, and I can do what I want with them. My wonky padz aren't hurting anybody... bunch of jerks.




Look on the bright side Barn, no one will pinch your board

R1DER
WA, 1461 posts
23 Jun 2011 7:09PM
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Or get in your way !

Haircut
QLD, 6481 posts
25 Jun 2011 7:31PM
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a hot tip given to me for removing pads and boom grip effortlessly (which really works and doesn't seem to damage anything else) is to dip a rag in turps and wring it out a bit so its not dripping off everywhere, and lay it on the pad, then wrap the area with some plastic to keep it all moist.

the fumes soften the glue and within a few hours the pad virtually fall off, often with glue in tact, ready to be put back on the board without the need for new glue

interestingly (and thankfully) it doesn't seem to affect the paint.

keef
NSW, 2016 posts
26 Jun 2011 2:57PM
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a bit of priceless info ill keep it in mind, I'm always destroying pads

Haircut
QLD, 6481 posts
26 Jun 2011 5:52PM
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i guess there's no guarentee it's not going to affect other paints, but it hasn't affected the couple of post 2000 year model boards i tried it on (and two alloy booms).

Sailhack
VIC, 5000 posts
27 Jun 2011 9:38AM
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I picked up a couple of those inter-locking eva tiles from Clark Rubber, and did as Barn said, using a 45deg pinpoint router cutter, but went with a diagonal 'diamond-like' pattern. The downside is they are a bit thick, but very comfy!

[edit] Hey Barn, that is an incredibly ugly-looking board! I'm inspired! I repainted a board a while back after doing some glassing & repairs and was going to give the kids (5 & 7) some paint, walk away & let them go nuts on it, unfortunately there was a good wind the following day and I needed to put a sugarcoat on it, so it's still white.

I'm sick of 'pretty' graphics & symmetrical patterns, going to try to make it into the ugliest board ever!

barn
WA, 2960 posts
27 Jun 2011 4:36PM
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Sailhack said...

I picked up a couple of those inter-locking eva tiles from Clark Rubber, and did as Barn said, using a 45deg pinpoint router cutter, but went with a diagonal 'diamond-like' pattern. The downside is they are a bit thick, but very comfy!

[edit] Hey Barn, that is an incredibly ugly-looking board! I'm inspired! I repainted a board a while back after doing some glassing & repairs and was going to give the kids (5 & 7) some paint, walk away & let them go nuts on it, unfortunately there was a good wind the following day and I needed to put a sugarcoat on it, so it's still white.

I'm sick of 'pretty' graphics & symmetrical patterns, going to try to make it into the ugliest board ever!


HAhaaha yep that paint job annoyed a lot of people.. And that square tail causes general outrage.... People not as artistically talented as me thought I should have gotten black pool tiles.

I used Posca Paint Pens for the spade, would be awesome to get some kids to paint a board with Posca Pens.. Ill have to rent some to paint my next one..

I found the pads to thick aswel, so I shaved off a few layers with the belt sander from the underside. This left the little pattern intact..

choco
SA, 4032 posts
27 Jun 2011 7:47PM
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barn said...

Sailhack said...

I picked up a couple of those inter-locking eva tiles from Clark Rubber, and did as Barn said, using a 45deg pinpoint router cutter, but went with a diagonal 'diamond-like' pattern. The downside is they are a bit thick, but very comfy!

[edit] Hey Barn, that is an incredibly ugly-looking board! I'm inspired! I repainted a board a while back after doing some glassing & repairs and was going to give the kids (5 & 7) some paint, walk away & let them go nuts on it, unfortunately there was a good wind the following day and I needed to put a sugarcoat on it, so it's still white.

I'm sick of 'pretty' graphics & symmetrical patterns, going to try to make it into the ugliest board ever!


HAhaaha yep that paint job annoyed a lot of people.. And that square tail causes general outrage.... People not as artistically talented as me thought I should have gotten black pool tiles.

I used Posca Paint Pens for the spade, would be awesome to get some kids to paint a board with Posca Pens.. Ill have to rent some to paint my next one..

I found the pads to thick aswel, so I shaved off a few layers with the belt sander from the underside. This left the little pattern intact..


I thought the graphics were factory job oh well guess we can call a spade a spade

decrepit
WA, 12137 posts
27 Jun 2011 6:57PM
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barn said...

<<<<<<<<<<

I found the pads to thick aswel, so I shaved off a few layers with the belt sander from the underside. This left the little pattern intact..


I used a small right angle grinder with a sanding pad, thinned them down in the middle to follow the curve of the board, left the heel edge full thickness. Roll them up tight for a day or so, then they won't spring off after gluing, before the contact cement hardens fully.



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"Pads" started by Hooksey