Just bought a new iload van and I am ready for the fit out. I am planning on having most of my gear stored under a bed, which will be about 50cm off the floor. I am concerned about 2 things. In the event of an accident, i want something that has a chance of not smashing up and ending up through the front window and the 2nd concern is rust.
CHOICES I have considered:
1. pvc, too weak in an accident but no rust
2. timber, ditto
3. aluminium frame, too soft in an accident?? but no rust
4. Gal stee, l possibly strong enough but may eventually rust with salt water.
I could put in a cargo barrier but would like to avoid that if I can solve the dilema.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Your first concern should be not having something go through the back of your head!
Yeah I meant I didn't want it all coming through the front cabin and killing us. I had a look at the plastic joiners and alum frame but thought it would come apart to easily in an accident . My thoughts were to build something strong enough and anchored down well enough so that it basically stays in the back if I have a frontal collision. Maybe I will go with the aluminium and just drive slower.
doesn't the Iload come with a metal panel between cabin and cargo area ? (unless you bought the 8/9 seater)
Here's the fit out in my iload.
I used the click it square aluminium, along with the plastic joiners. The supports are some hefty aluminium L pieces, bolted into place. I found if everything sits tight (the frame in the car) it cant move around on its own. As for the problem with everything moving forward in an accident, I dont know, mines got a cargo barrier. I have seen another fit out in an iload, made of wood where the frame was bolted onto the floor using the bolts for the cargo securing rings, that might be the go?
Its not actually bolted in anywhere. The sides are hard up agaist the recesses for the side roller doors with some boat carpet padding things up, and the front (of the wood bed) sits up against the cargo barrier hence there's no free movement/flexing. The four outer legs and the square they form/join at the top are the square click-its, everything else is L beam,
As you say, not having the cargo barrier means it joins you up front in a crash, the legs could be moved in, to allow them to be bolted to the cargo securing rings, but then you lose board space in the configuration I've got. Im guessing your van has the securing points for the cargo barrier, Inset in the floor and above both the sliding doors? Maybe the securing points could be used to attach the frame to, rather than having to buy a cargo barrier. I can PM you some more pics in the morning (when theres some daylight) if you like....
Thanks Subsonic. I would love to see some more close up pics. Starting to think I might put in the cargo barrier. I just liked the idea of having access to the cabin at night when sleeping. Adjust the radio etc, but I guess using an iPod is easy.
Your set up looks very much like what I want to do but maybe not as high as I will only put 2 boards underneath. If I want a third board I take my old one and keep it on the roof rack.
G'day Bill. In my van I first laid a layer of lino to catch and water from the gear, then a layer of marine carpet on top of that to soak any water, so it doesn't 'swish' around while driving. The theory is that the carpet will eventually dry and the water won't soak through to the van body. Have had the van 1yr and seems to be working!
On top of the base layer I made a rack out of builders ply and glued on some thin interior vehicle carpet from Bunnings, to prevent damage to gear. Again the idea is the carpet acts as a sponge for any moisture and it slowly dries. To shelves are screwed together with stainless screws as a single piece which is locked in place around the wheel arches. I often stack gear all the way to the roof when we go camping, so I opted for the cargo cage to stop gear coming through into the front cab.
Bill, I found that the Iload paint on the floor of the cargo area to be very thin and that even dry sand that is not removed is enough to start the rust process starting.
What I did was to give the floor a couple of coats of white kill rust so there is at least decent paint under the floor and try and seal your rubber mat or whatever you use so sand cant get under there.
It would appear I cant PM pics, so here's some more here....
Theres a L strut in the middle for extra support for the bed (it's pretty damn solid) I found the whole thing needs to be assembled inside the van as well after I put the frame together (rookie error
), you can see how the cargo barrier holds everything back too. Ive used plenty of boat carpet to pad everything up. theres enough space for sleeping up top but its a bit of a squeeze, not something you'll have to worry about if you're only gonna stick to boards in (my rack is 75cm high to give you some perspective...)
I found 20cm high works for the board slots (the tallest board fits in with out touching.). The centre divider is a little off centre so I can fit wider boards on one side, skinnier boards on the other...
Let me know if theres anything youd like specific pics of.....
I used 25x25 alum angle running along walls of van (Iload). Angle is upside down so cross bearer sit in. Fastened to van with these cool bolts with a large sort of pop rivet backing that expands behind the wall skin of van. Can take them out easy. Can't remember what they are called. (Someone help me out.)
20 mm alum box tubing as cross bearers drop into the angle across the van. Used about six from memory. Cut a large sheet of ply which drops of top of bearers and sits snug inside angle as well.
Up front of van, where doors open , I made legs to support the end of rails which are bolted together (use spring washers). These legs base sit on the little step section of doors in Iload. I used hard cistern washers as a base for the angle.
Ply sheet bolted down at ends through cross bearers and through rail. Got heavy rubber matting over the whole lot which catches all the sand and salt water. Rip your gear out and leave doors open for salt water to evaporate then use a soft broom and sweep out all sand, dry salt.
The whole thing minus the side rails can be taken out in about ten minutes.
I didn't put permanent separate board shelves in mine. I can fit four boards and masts under the "false floor" plenty of room up top for sails, gear, more board and a single mattress etc. I did it this way as with no specific board sections I can get more versatile use for camping trips etc - all gear goes underneath and can still have double mattress up top. I think on trips we have had about 12 boards, 12 sails, booms and everything else plus personal gear with easy access.
Also made a set of internal "roof racks" out of the same alum box tube and alum angle brackets . Allow me to store sails up top (4 or 5) without them getting crushed.
Got photos somewhere but on other computer.
I'm happy with this set up.
Cheers,
EB
Thanks so much guys, especially for the photos. Looks like I will get me a cargo barrier and plenty of alum tubing. Looking forward to the challenge.
By the way, I painted the rear out with fish oil, then some foam rollout, the rubber mat provided bu hyundai, the 5mm rubber mat with no holes. Plan to squeegee out water as well, so should be able to keep the rust at bay.
Thanks again.
Rust proofing your vans? I have heard fish oil is the best protection against rust on the floor of your van. Wouldn't fish oil stink to high heaven? Have just learnt that WD40 is nothing more than fish oil. Has anyone sprayed WD40 on the floor of their van? Did it stink? So many questions. Baywavebill, what has your experience been?
