have i done this right?

moby gave me a 5m sail ,
5m , 430 luff , boom 165

i have set it on my 455 ( old ebay 1 piece mast) with a 10 cm gap on top
boom say"165-210" so i set it on the lowest setting

should it be lower or higher on the mast ?

should i set it on my newer 460 2 piece mast (

when i pull the ropes in , the batten are pushing pass the mast



down-haul - (base) went left to right ,(sail) closest to the mast , other side then middle


is this correct ? more out-haul ?

just don't want to break my new toy :(

Thats looking okay. It needs more downhaul though. Wrap the downhaul around a bar or screwdriver and then use it to downhaul, rather than holding onto the rope. Try to minimise the gap between the sail pullies and the base pullies.

It probably needs a little outhaul too. Shorten your boom and let the sail touch the boom end. I wouldn't give it too much outhaul though as it will flatten the sail too much.


Those numbers are about the mast index. Its a crazy subject and seems to be open to interpretation. The ideal mast is a mast made by Sailworks however as this sail is about 14 years old that mast probably doesn't exist. Try it on both your masts and see how it goes on them. You will have to adjust either the top strap or the mast extension.

Man I could have used that sail last Tuesday. I haven't need a 5m for about 3 years but that day I did.

Firstly: You won't break it! Seriously.

(I've never seen a sail that is best with a mast longer than the luff, but I'm kinda new.)
Ignoring that, if your mast is 430, and the luff is 436 - 439 you need to set your extension between 6cm and 9cm, as a starting point. 430 + 6 = 436. It looks like your extension is on 0cm. This is why it also looks like you need more downhaul.

Luff, by the way, is the length of the sail from top to bottom, when set correctly. Boom is, well, boom length.

These numbers are a suggestion and are often out by a couple of cm, for a number of reasons I won't go into.

Downhaul all the way until your pulley is about next to the black extension setting thingy. Yes, that far. No, you won't break anything.

You want the second panel at the top of the sail to be floppy up till about half way across the sail. More for more control, less for more power. It depends on the conditions. Experiment.

You also want to pull the outhaul all the way out, once you've set the boom to the recommended length. Again, the numbers are a suggestion, rarely perfectly accurate. You want the battens above the boom to be lying about half way across your mast, or less. It has to be easy to flip the sail, the batten will move across to the other side of the mast when this happens.

That's about all there is to rigging, the rest is fine tuning.

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Short version:

1. Set your extension to 8cm. (mast 430cm + 8cm = 438cm = approx the luff)
2. Set your boom length to 165cm
3. Downhaul allllll the way to the bottom, leave say a 1-2cm gap. (tip: use harness hook and your legs)
4. Outhaul alllllll the way to the end of the boom.

This is a good starting point. Now fine tune.

Generally yes, evlPanda, however, one of the pictures shows that the sail has an extended "variotop". The luff spec applies with the top set to 0, and it's clearly not, and cannot be, with such a long mast - 455 cm.

So, I'd set the base for the least extension (looks like zero is possible with this one), and add 18cm to the top of the sail, using the variotop, then downhaul all the way down, leaving about an inch gap. The idea is to minimise the mast extension on top of the sail. When downhauling, use the harness spreader bar for now, but in future, try to source one of those helper tools with a cleat that used to be called "Easy Rig" - they are cheap and invaluable.

The pulley threading is great (Edit: well, on a second look, it is a bit cross-threaded and can be done in a better way), but a lot more downhaul is required, as universally agreed. Once downhaul is correct, outhaul can be done as per boom measurements.

With a sail that old it may not go floppy/twist at the top?
I used my 4.2m sailworks for the first time Tues & it had a turban.I don't think its designed to go floppy..they must have been too early and the twist off designs came later?

I wouldn't expect a sail of that age to be designed to twist off. It may go floppy at the top if overdownhauled. Just aim to have the batten above the boom half way across the mast. Less = no shape in the sail, more = hard to flip across.

I agree with DavMen, Possibly that middle should be threaded to the outside not inside and then continue that way it might smooth the downhaul pulling of the rope which may give you another few centimeters maybe.

Kind Regards
Walt

thanks , i learn a new word "variotop"

ok , so 18 cm from the top and pull all the way
( by the way , how did you get 18 cm ??)

i thought it would be better to put the sail high so the mast can flex more ( thinner at the top)

and why do i want the batten to sit on the mast 50% , wont this reck the batten flicking back and forth when i change wind side

Here is the calculation: The luff of the sail is given as 436-439. So extending the sail at the top by around 18 cm will give you a luff of 454-457. Your mast is 455 - so it's a good fit for a mast base with zero extension.

The sail should sit as low on the mast+extension as possible, keeping the centre of effort (CoE) low. It's easier to sail like this. 18 cm of top extension is normal for this setup - the sail's recommended mast is a 460 anyway.

A traditional "rule of thumb" is that the batten ends should be halfway on the mast when you outhaul the sail correctly and it is flat on the ground. Once the wind fills the sail it all looks a lot better. The battens are quite tough and usually outlast the other parts of the sail, especially the monofilm - don't worry about wrecking them.

The best threading on your extension is as follows...

Pulleys on the sail we'll call A,B & C. A being closest to the mast.
Pulleys on the extension we'll call 1,2 & 3, from left to right. 3 isn't used in this case.

From the start, thread left to right over A and through the inside (mast side) of 2.
From the outside of 2, right to left over C to outside of 1.
From the inside of 1, left to right over B and into the cleat.

You can experiment with switching 2 to 3, or 1&2 to 2&3 to find the method with the least resistance.