You have to be very careful with any epoxy or cyanoacrylate based glues with any foam. Make sure it does state foam safe and then test only the slightest drop on a bit of the foam to make sure it wont dissolve it.
Get some solarez or UVrez. Comes in a tube, cures on exposure to UV light. Easy to use, can be sanded, and safe for your board.
Araldite is epoxy, so yes.
BUT if it is a decent sized hole in a stressed area, then no such thing as a quick fix. Also Araldite is an adhesive resin not designed for continuous water exposure.
Pics of hole?
Solarez epoxy version is probably easiest to use, followed closely by Knead-it putty. The latter is easily found at hardware so for a quick fix I'd use that rather then araldite as it is designed for doing ding repairs.
Here's the damage, up near the nose so no real structural issues. It's been drying out for a month so water ingress shouldn't be an issue. I don't think it copped much in there anyway, last catapult of the day!
Cheers for the tips, would solarez would do the trick on a hole that size
You could fix that by any method just fine, but might be a bit much filling to use resins. A proper repair with fibreglass and epoxy resin will cost you about $50 materials to do yourself and would be the gold standard.
But you are just as likely to smash it off again, and it is about a 2004 - 2006 model board so maybe not worth it??
Thus I would do it with Selleys "Knead-it" putty.
Rip the whole broken bit off, plug it all up with the putty, really force it in at the edges and let it set. Sand back starting with a file and 80grit all the way down to about 400grade wet and it will be totally blended in and almost invisible except for the colour being different.
Agree with ^^^
There is an epoxy based spray paint can called Wattyl Killrust Epoxy Gloss Enamel Step 3 Topcoat - it comes in white - and is a perfect match for old white JPs. Very tough, paint never comes off. No primer required. Perfecto.
Here's a step by step run down.
From the original pic I cut away a bit more of the damage and tidied up the edges. As you can see, the specks in the surface look like it hasn't been mixed correctly. I kneaded it for a good 10 mins and was actually looking for inconsistencies in the mix and couldn't see any. Not sure if it always looks like that. Hit it with the file first, then used 80 grit dry paper to smooth it off. Thought I had some finer paper in the shed but didn't so I'm happy with it like that. (It's windy ). Stuff was really easy to use and sand, recommend it too anyone.
Good work!!! Most people leave it as it, all dented and fingerprints and can't be bothered sanding. That is tops !!
I have seen others with flecks in, and it has gone off properly. I think it is always like that
Cheers Mark. As I said it was really easy to use and quick. It goes off in an hour, so for that amount of damage I'd use that rather than solar rez.
Solar rez would be good for a quick seal up and go but you'd have to go back again and fix it properly to get the original shape back and drain out any water that got in.
I was lucky, (or is that unlucky), that I could leave the board hanging in the shed for a month to dry before repairing.
The knead it cost me $20 and an hour of my time. I'll probably end up painting it at some stage.
Thanks for the tips everyone.