I would like to have a handle in the bottom of my Slingshot Wizard 125 liter.
Did anybody ever try to make this DIY by making a small hole in the bottom of the board.
I guess in the middle in the center of gravity of the board with the foil mounted.
Or did anybody break his board around this place : are there reinforcements at that place I better not cut into pieces ?
Select to expand quoteYellowHelmet said..
I would like to have a handle in the bottom of my Slingshot Wizard 125 liter.
Did anybody ever try to make this DIY by making a small hole in the bottom of the board.
I guess in the middle in the center of gravity of the board with the foil mounted.
Or did anybody break his board around this place : are there reinforcements at that place I better not cut into pieces ?
I know people have had it done
Maybe you could purchase a handle and glass it in, some handles you can hook your fingers in and pick up the board with one hand.
I've been using this for a couple years:
liquidsurfandsail.com/sup-and-wing-board-handle/?sku=2000786&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp2000786&sc_intid=2000786&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADpOBrhYthyRtbnbKDw00hXjb1XuX
i honestly don't notice it foiling up, but i know it must have a small effect. Clean the board really well with water, soap and then IPA and it will be stuck on there like snot.
If you mean an inset carry handle like on a SUP board yes it can be done but it needs to be a handle that is in a high density foam cassette otherwise its going to fail and leak recommend to find someone that has done it before.
Buying a handle is not expensive
get the kidney shaped one not the square block looking thing as they are weak and can leak
the slingshot has a big core cell and carbon stringer so the router work is not fun.
use super slow epoxy resin so u don't melt it all
or come here 
I've done plenty
MOzCustoms
42 Daly St
South Fremantle
Thank for your good ideas and interesting insights.
1. Hydrosurf and KDog : these prefabricated inside handle boxes seem indeed a good idea. Do you have examples or experience with this ? I felt inside a factory installed box and it feels curved for better grip.
2.BullroarerTook : this is a very good and original idea. So I guess it can easily be removed at all time ? Will have indeed a (small) effect during taxing. I'm thinking of a hand a little bit foil shaped not in the lenght but width of the board. Could be a small extra foil in the middle of the board.
3. The idea of BullroarerTook makes me think of a rubber suction handle I could carry around and put in the zipper pocket of my impact jacket. Snap on and off when necessary.
4. By the way right now I'm doing someting similar. I have a small rope / belt in the zipper pocket. I put it through both front footstraps underneath the board and then pull the board up on these rope/belt on the bottom side. I have a 500 meter standing depth area 
5 Mark_australia is the best and easiest idea : I'm in Belgium and I'll send the board right over through the earth.
So there is a carbon stringer there in the middle. So I guess just making a hole, putting a prefabricated handle box in with some super slow epoxy is not a good idea I guess.
Guido
It's a very good idea
router hole
stick in with resin and qcell
sand a shallow depression and glass over
as an aside, have a good look there for creasing across the bottom the slingshots are notorious for it
if doing a handle it's a good opportunity to put a bit of repair effort in. actually not just creasing, if one concave is quite a bit deeper or vee is funny it shows it's trying to twist. Seen some real interesting ones
I read somewhere that the slingshot boards are a different construction than a regular sandwich windsurf board. Is that true?
Select to expand quoteHydrosurf said..
I read somewhere that the slingshot boards are a different construction than a regular sandwich windsurf board. Is that true?
Depends on the model my old 125 wizard V2 had a layer of carbon and what looked like 4oz.glass on the bottom the top had divinycell,carbon,glass on top.Freestyle models are more like wave windsurf construction.And yes you can crease the bottom
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
It's a very good idea
router hole
stick in with resin and qcell
sand a shallow depression and glass over
as an aside, have a good look there for creasing across the bottom the slingshots are notorious for it
if doing a handle it's a good opportunity to put a bit of repair effort in. actually not just creasing, if one concave is quite a bit deeper or vee is funny it shows it's trying to twist. Seen some real interesting ones
Confirming that Mark does excellent work 
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
It's a very good idea
router hole
stick in with resin and qcell
sand a shallow depression and glass over
as an aside, have a good look there for creasing across the bottom the slingshots are notorious for it
if doing a handle it's a good opportunity to put a bit of repair effort in. actually not just creasing, if one concave is quite a bit deeper or vee is funny it shows it's trying to twist. Seen some real interesting ones
Confirming that Mark does excellent work
Select to expand quoteYellowHelmet said..
these prefabricated inside handle boxes seem indeed a good idea. Do you have examples or experience with this ? I felt inside a factory installed box and it feels curved for better grip.
I have used prefab handles bought on Amazon (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W61GVT2/). Easy to put in (route exactly, use very slow epoxy + some filler). They are not quite as comfortable as the handles in commercial boards, but perfectly fine.Select to expand quoteYellowHelmet said..
The idea of BullroarerTook makes me think of a rubber suction handle I could carry around and put in the zipper pocket of my impact jacket. Snap on and off when necessary.
I've used a rubber suction handle for a while to carry windfoil gear. The problem I had was that it would sometimes come loose while I was carrying the gear. I ended up using climbing sling that I wrap around the fuse and my hand, with the other hand on the mast foot. Good balance and control, and even weight on both arms.
That Amazon one was what I meant too
just make sure you put extra glue in the bottom seam the day before install to be safe
Select to expand quoteI've found these :
Handle SUP 5"
heartheart-full
GONG SUP carry handle of 5".Available in two colours: black and white.
Google this (I'm not allowed to send weblinks yet).
and
Surfboard Handle Stand Paddle Rectangle Board Hand Hold Konb SUP Surfboard Gripe
I think these are double curved inside and therefore more comfortable, especially the Gong ones.
I've found these :
Handle SUP 5"
heartheart-full
GONG SUP carry handle of 5".Available in two colours: black and white.
Google this (I'm not allowed to send weblinks yet).
and
Surfboard Handle Stand Paddle Rectangle Board Hand Hold Konb SUP Surfboard Gripe
Does somebody has a picture of that section of a (broken) Wizard 125 liter.
I also like the idea of boardsurfr with the climbing sling between the fuse and the hand.
I'll try it.
But I'm also thinking of a suction handle to lift glass.
During foiling I could store it right next to the highest point of Surfbent if the suction handle is not too high / find myself a low profile suction handle + sand that spot on deck of the board.
My Fanatic Stingray has the handle, thought I would love it but usually revert to holding the foil mast as easier to manage the gear in the shorebreak ... handle more a wing thing ....
I don't know that u will get a pic like that but look above. I posted what's inside
No insult intended but a handle install is not really a first time thing, have you done repairs before? Got a router and 2" long bit?
Select to expand quoteSearoamer said..
My Fanatic Stingray has the handle, thought I would love it but usually revert to holding the foil mast as easier to manage the gear in the shorebreak ... handle more a wing thing ....
Which year do you have? Well I guess you said Fanatic & handle so that pretty much sets it. Have you tried the Duotone Stingray yet?
Select to expand quoteSearoamer said..
My Fanatic Stingray has the handle, thought I would love it but usually revert to holding the foil mast as easier to manage the gear in the shorebreak ... handle more a wing thing ....
My experience with a bottom handle on the SS 115 is mixed first you have to have the sail attached for it to work it's great for flat water spots and places with rocks so much easier on the feet.Carrying long distance not so good and like Searomer mentioned shore pound and waves your better off with the old way as for the 115 I do feel it's a plus beacause the board is a bit heavy.
I got Mark to add a handle to my 125. He did a great job and I find it much easier to carry now. As said above only useful with the rig attached. Just moving the board I use the footstrap and mast.
He added rails while at it. That was actually the main thing I wanted as I couldn't get a new board but with rails I get a lot more choice of foils. He also found some spongy sections and fixed them.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
I don't know that u will get a pic like that but look above. I posted what's inside
No insult intended but a handle install is not really a first time thing, have you done repairs before? Got a router and 2" long bit?
No problem, I"m not going to try this myself.
I have a bad track record in epoxy jobs. Last time with a friend making mast / wishbone reinforcements we mixed 2 x component A.
Your explanation is perfectly clear, but a picture says more thans a thousand words ... and beside I was just curious to see the inside of my board.
Yes the purpose of the handle is to carry the board with a rig, mainly on land. Without rig it will be unbalanced.
I made a mistake when I wrote we have a 500 meter standing depth area.
I meant 500 meter difference between high water line and low water line, tidal height difference being about 6 meter sometimes.
But getting throught the shallow shore break zone with white rollers pounding on my head, carrying first pulling by the top of the sail, then pushing the gear through the impact zone, always wanting extra 2 hands, the sea bed ondulating a bit so not being able to start immediately when the foil is free, feels like a 500 meter ordeal. Lately I developed a technique I call upside/down waterstarting : when the water is around my chest I keep the foil upside but start like to waterstart while swimming with my legs so little by little I get pulled in the sea with the sail pressure (but sometimes the wave pressure wins on the sail pressure and I reverse back to the beach, and then revert to the older struggle technique). Once further out I try to waterstart with the foil in the water but don't let myself pull on the board right away but stay in the water for some extra meters because the sea bed is not flat and I could hit ground again.
Now I'm carrying the board and rig in 2 times over the 500 meter on land.
Lately I tried to carry the board on with the mast on/in my shoulder and the board on my back while balancing the sail with one hand. I call it the Jesus Christ style, most wingfoiler do it that way but their board is lighter and they only have a light wing not a windsurf rig. This works, not easy with the sail, sometimes I use the front foil as a sail stabilizer. But the mast hurts in my shoulder. Then I put some radiator tube insulation foam on my shoulders round my impact jacket as a protection. Is better but still hurts. Maybe I have something else I will try : I have special shoulder pieces from a motor bike impact jacket Leatt, 3df plastic.
There is also another way, but I'm not going to go that way anymore.
For many, many years I carried my windsurfboard and sail on my head. First the sail on my helmet, and the the board on the wishbone, holding the board with one hand, one hand free, turning the sail and board upwind or downwind as the wind shifted. I was quit good in this, could do it untill 35 knots. Always did this at the end of the day coming back when I was tired.
A small advice : don't do it. This is very bad for your spine, especially C6 - C7 because of the weight and mainly the movement of the board and rig. 
Believe me, now I'm OK but I will never carry things on my head anymore, like women in Africa carrying water bottles (if interested I can find a statistical study about it).
So my first thought was to carry foil board and rig that way, what would be especially easy for entering the shallow impact zone. But for this reason I will not do this.
I also saw a video of Balz Muller putting the board with the foil on the beach with rigg on the board, getting with his head under the board and lifting it that way. I think this is also a problem for C6 - C7. He gave it as advise for entering. But he is still young.
So right now I'm thinking :
- Jesus Christ style with shoulder protection, although this also pushes my spine and in a asymmetrical way.
- Using rope of belt between front foot straps or around the fuselage/mast.
- Installing the insert handle.
- Suction handle will maybe come off because of the concave form.
- Walking back and forth 2 times. By the way I carry the board holding 1 footstrap and the fuselage between front wing and stabilizer. Works quite good and the mast and stabilizer give a certain suspension feel when I run down the dune.
- Getting assistance of foil board sherpas
Any ideas are welcome, also systems for easier getting through the shallow impact zone.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Thanks man 
I think the freight from Europe is the killer
The freight from Eastern Aus was pretty ordinary too.
