Just a word of warning to potential Iload buyers, had mine since new 6years 115,000 on the clock and one of the hoses has blown off the turbo twice now and have been told to replace the Turbo and its a common problem that starts at 100,000.
I'm a bit disappointed as it has been well serviced and maintained since new with no expense spared. It's never missed a beat until now so maybe its just part and parcel of a high revving turbo diesel these days. 
Curious to know which hose. Can you here a difference in the turbo as its not that common. I would get another opinion from a non factory mechanic.
Ebay is great if you can do it yourself or a mate otherwise as I said above.
Turbo specialist inspected the turbo and reckons its on its way out, lots of play in the shaft, talked to another specialist over the phone and he was not surprised as its about 100,000 when the Iload turbo problems start. I don't know the technical reason for the extra pressure to blow off the intercooler hose but all to do with warn out turbo parts.
You don't hear anything until the hose blows off! And apparently you dont want to ignore a warn out turbo. Did some searching and its common or so it seems.
mate, turbos are cheap to reco. get a kit. If the downstream hose blows off then you've probably got a wastegate problem(easy). Turbos are very basic.
^^ They are not 'cheap' to rebuild due to the tolerances involved and the balancing of something that runs at 150,000 rpm. Still, I think it what what most people would call a major expense....
Then again, yes its cheaper than the horrific price the manufacturer will charge for a whole turbo. Bloody highway robbery to charge $5K for a 'genuine' turbo when the same thing made by Garrett is $2K new. Agree with the wastegate issue.
Sounds like Jman has been fed some B.S. If he is getting an overboost that makes the hoses blow off it is
(1) hose clamps / hoses (duh) or
(2) the wastegate solenoid is not activating so it overboosts or
(3) ECU (if it is involved in boost control) is not doing it's bit properly (unlikely, ECU boost control is a bit more flash than a commercial vehicle...? Not familiar with how Hyundeee does it)
None of them are actually the turbo at fault, it is what is controlling the boost that is at fault.
Saying u need a new turbo just cos you have an overboost is like rebuilding your house cos the aircon broke.
But if the turbo IS fkd and has major sideplay, and the overboost..... I'd run with warranty. Turbo's last for 200,000 km plus on trucks. The transport industry would not use turbochargers on 90% of their vehicles if they were unreliable yah?
100K for a major engine component is bvllsh!tfarken.
Australian consumer law states that if it does not last as long as a reasonable consumer would expect they have to fix it (out of warranty or not). Look at Jeep right now...
Select to expand quoteJman said..
Just a word of warning to potential Iload buyers, had mine since new 6years 115,000 on the clock and one of the hoses has blown off the turbo twice now and have been told to replace the Turbo and its a common problem that starts at 100,000.
I'm a bit disappointed as it has been well serviced and maintained since new with no expense spared. It's never missed a beat until now so maybe its just part and parcel of a high revving turbo diesel these days.
Have you had a quote yet?
any chance that the inlet manifold is choked up with carbon?
that would restrict flow - bumping up pressure and maybe blow hoses off,
the extra pressure would most likely mess up seals and sensors as well.
stephen
Yep that is also the problem and needs some decarboning.
Mark hear what you are saying but I actually spoke to one of the biggest companys that service diesels in Melbourne and he was not very flattering of the Iload diesel motor full stop. They also do all the warranty work for local Hyundai dealers but couldn't even get them to look at it for 3 weeks so had it looked at by another reputable local turbo re-builder.
So you reckon Hyundai would fix a 6 year old van 12months out of warranty?? I don't think so Mark.
Always supplied the castrol edge 5w-30 for service every 10,000 religiously so not the wrong oil before someone asks.
Anyway its in the shop now getting sorted so should be good for another 100,000 but I wont be keeping it that long!
^^ I think you have a shot - it is only just over 100,000 and a reasonable consumer would expect it to last a lot longer than that. It is not Hyundai doing it out of the kindness of their heart, it would be your consumer affairs mob in your state reminding them of Australian consumer law and directing them to fix. The consumer affairs mob may think it has "lasted as long as reasonably expected" but you don't know that til you try. Worth making a 15min inquiry to save $5K.....?
If everyone does that then suddenly Hyundai have to fix lots of them and we start getting quality, not rubbish built to barely last to warranty end.
Sounds to me like you've been spun a line!
If the turbo was really over boosting and blowing off the hose the ecu would go into limp mode.
It's much more likely that they have simply used sh**ty clamps that loosen up over time. Replace the clamp or add another one next to it and it should solve your problem.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
^^ I think you have a shot - it is only just over 100,000 and a reasonable consumer would expect it to last a lot longer than that. It is not Hyundai doing it out of the kindness of their heart, it would be your consumer affairs mob in your state reminding them of Australian consumer law and directing them to fix. The consumer affairs mob may think it has "lasted as long as reasonably expected" but you don't know that til you try. Worth making a 15min inquiry to save $5K.....?
If everyone does that then suddenly Hyundai have to fix lots of them and we start getting quality, not rubbish built to barely last to warranty end.
Good luck 
Select to expand quotestoff said..
Sounds to me like you've been spun a line!
If the turbo was really over boosting and blowing off the hose the ecu would go into limp mode.
It's much more likely that they have simply used sh**ty clamps that loosen up over time. Replace the clamp or add another one next to it and it should solve your problem.
Plus silicon hoses 
Ok thanks for all the advice, I'm going to check on the progress of the repair tomorrow and they will be able to tell me why it failed. Like I said the company are supposed to be experts in the design and reconditioning of turbo's and testing them.
I picked up the Iload today and had a chat with them about what caused the turbo to wear out.
On the invoice was noted: Turbo failure attributed to oil contamination through carbon depositing - Excessive oil through intake system from compressor side and blow-by contamination.
They reckon that the rest of the engine seems fine ex. injectors and they did 2 engine flushes to de-carbon the engine.
They also said to help avoid the problem in the future that the oil should be changed every 5000 klm to stop oil dilution. I had been doing every 10,000
Further more they recommend using a different brand of oil every 4th change as different brands use different detergents to clean and that can help.
So I have to take it back in 500 klm to have the oil changed again because of the engine flush and to make sure everything is good.
So $100. every 5000 plus a filter will add a bit to the service costs.
Would like to know what manufactures handbook says about how often you should change the oil . My hunydee gets a oil change every 5000km including oil filter . The handbook for mine says every 7500km so does my no:1 daughters Getz and no:2 daughters Elantra . I have always run a mineral oil in mine 5w - 30 by Fuchs . No problems so far (touch wood) . Sorry to hear of your drama
Select to expand quotebounty said..
Would like to know what manufactures handbook says about how often you should change the oil . My hunydee gets a oil change every 5000km including oil filter . The handbook for mine says every 7500km so does my no:1 daughters Getz and no:2 daughters Elantra . I have always run a mineral oil in mine 5w - 30 by Fuchs . No problems so far (touch wood) . Sorry to hear of your drama
In the Iload book it says 15,000 unless you use it in extreme conditions then it 7500 so I always figured every 10,000 was a happy medium.
Its not like I drive hard or tow, haven't even had the front pads replaced yet, even the original battery is still going!
Select to expand quoteJman said..bounty said..
Would like to know what manufactures handbook says about how often you should change the oil . My hunydee gets a oil change every 5000km including oil filter . The handbook for mine says every 7500km so does my no:1 daughters Getz and no:2 daughters Elantra . I have always run a mineral oil in mine 5w - 30 by Fuchs . No problems so far (touch wood) . Sorry to hear of your drama
In the Iload book it says 15,000 unless you use it in extreme conditions then it 7500 so I always figured every 10,000 was a happy medium.
Its not like I drive hard or tow, haven't even had the front pads replaced yet, even the original battery is still going!
The batteries in those can last up to 5+ years. I saw an OE battery in a Terracan that went for 6.5 years 
Select to expand quotebounty said..
Would like to know what manufactures handbook says about how often you should change the oil . My hunydee gets a oil change every 5000km including oil filter . The handbook for mine says every 7500km so does my no:1 daughters Getz and no:2 daughters Elantra . I have always run a mineral oil in mine 5w - 30 by Fuchs . No problems so far (touch wood) . Sorry to hear of your drama
I'd be getting an oil change in my work van every 3 weeks if I had to change it every 5000km. I drive a 2013 Iveco daily at work. The dealer mechanic advises 40,000km between services. I haven't had any engine trouble yet.. It's got 230000 on the odometer. I've had some gear box problems though.
Yeah its opened my eyes up about diesels and I just wanted to let people know of my experience with the Iload TD.
I had not a bad thing to say about mine until this happened. Hopefully the end of my problems.
I will certainly look at all the other van options when I'm ready to update as the service requirements seem to very a lot.
What was the $ Jman. The turbos used in diesels are usually very basic no fancy ball bearings or other stuff. I got a Garrett GT recoed at their factory in Somerton(vic) and it was 250 bucks. Just new bearings and seals. Oil in the inlet manifold tells you that you've got a leaking oil seal. They can be finicky apparently though usually if a seal is starting to leak it may be caused by excessive bearing wear. It may also be worth installing a cheap timer as sometimes if you turn the thing off at the brothel 
the turbine side will fry the oil in the bearing housing and make nasty carbon deposits. the timer just keeps cool oil flowing through the turbo while the exhaust housing temperature cools. So when you stagger out from the establishment after your 6 minutes .......all will be good.
Ok sit down, I paid $3000 for them to completely rebuild the turbo, thats all new parts and engine flush new hoses, not cheap but the other place recommended to me wouldn't even look at it for 3 weeks and were quoting the same. I wasn't just going to put new hoses and clamps on and forget about it and wait till it completely dies.
Know doubt you could buy a new one off ebay and get someone to fit it and off you go but I was happy to have a experienced turbo reconditioner do the work and guarantee there work and check out the rest of the engine. Didn't want to have the van breaking down and off the road over xmas new year period either.
Yeah the turbo timer is something to consider, maybe on the next van.
Select to expand quotemyusernam said..
a catch can is a good idea also
They do look beneficial.
yep- the catch can can do wonders stopping oil vapours getting into the inlet system, but if you want to go the whole hog and do a "propajob",
do what the grenade owners do.
- oil catch can on the pcv line,
- block the EGR valve, so exhaust gas doesn't go through the inlet,
- dawes? valve,to restrict the exhaust gas going to the turbo, as with the EGR being blocked there is more exhaust gas being fed into the turbo - making it spin up faster.
there are a few other tricks, but an ILOAD diesel specialist would have a better idea.
stephen
Select to expand quoteDARTH said..Jman said..bounty said..
Would like to know what manufactures handbook says about how often you should change the oil . My hunydee gets a oil change every 5000km including oil filter . The handbook for mine says every 7500km so does my no:1 daughters Getz and no:2 daughters Elantra . I have always run a mineral oil in mine 5w - 30 by Fuchs . No problems so far (touch wood) . Sorry to hear of your drama
In the Iload book it says 15,000 unless you use it in extreme conditions then it 7500 so I always figured every 10,000 was a happy medium.
Its not like I drive hard or tow, haven't even had the front pads replaced yet, even the original battery is still going!
The batteries in those can last up to 5+ years. I saw an OE battery in a Terracan that went for 6.5 years
Yeah I would be fkn stoked to have 6 yrs from the battery and only get 100K from the turbo.
If the manufacturer recommends 15K oil changes, but Jman did 10K and then the turbo bearings are stuffed due to carbon there is something wrong and it aint his doing....
BTW I am on about 7yrs on a Delkor calcium battery in my 4wd, does mostly short trips and has been proper flat at least 4 or 5 times.
