Structural Engineering question

I hope someone can give me a bit of advice / reassurance. (Won't hold you to it)

I want to cantilever some Ezystrut to my workshop I Beam to pick up a static weight.

Like below, section view.








Using some of these clamps. (Rated at 407kg when used in pairs with a 2:1 safety factor)
www.ezystrut.com.au/products/beam-clamps/e2786/e2786h/

I just don't have the skills to work it out and could not find simple help with Google.

Any of you smart people that work with these calcs all day work it out for me?

Thanks.
Gav.

SFA

I'm not a structural engineer but I think you'd solve this by assuming the far side of the I beam is a pivot, calculate the torque there and then calculate the effective loading at the clamp in tension.

Say it was another 100mm from there and you had 70kg * 0.53m = 37.1 kg.m of torque (a new unit I made up since we're going back out to kg at the end anyway).

Take that 100mm and calculate the force at the end of it from that torque: 37.1 / 0.1 = 371kg.

So you'd need an I-Beam at least 92mm wide to take that load at that distance (I think...)

I Beam is : (Sorry, I did not draw it to scale)
630 UB 113
Overall Width:228.0 mm
Overall Height:607.0 mm
Flange Thickness:17.3 mm
Web Thickness:11.2 mm
Root Radius:14.0 mm

Cantilevered ezystrut E1001 combination channel is a total length of 825mm and is 82.6 high
www.ezystrut.com.au/products/channels-and-accessories/combination-channel/e1001-combination-channel/e1001/e1001h/

I'm not concerned about the I beam so much, just wondering about the clamps rating.

Thanks!

(430 + 228) / 228 x 70 = 202kg.

That's not taking into account the mass of it.

Edit: Just beat me!

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Zuke said..
(430 + 228) / 228 x 70 = 202kg.

That's not taking into account the mass of it.

Mass for the 825mm length of channel is 4.125kg

Hey Gav Gav,
thats what i said hours ago and im very edegmuamucated

And Ill bet you swing of it

What are you hanging of it?

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snot said..
What are you hanging of it?

My junk, one is hanging a bit low compared to the other..

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GreenPat said..

GavGav said..
So, I think the answer is, it will be fine and have over a 2:1 safety factor.

Thanks for your help guys.

If anyone needs any advice on:
Sending SDI-HD or HDBaseT video long distances
Stage lighting DMX control
Audio DSP configuring.
CRESTRON control systems
+ more.

(No home theater )

I'm your man!

Gav.

Any clues how to get a DVB-T tuner into a television with only an ATSC one? Or converting and ATSC signal to DVB-T?

Just buy a new TV designed to work in OZ? Probably cheaper.
Sorry.. Almost Home theater..

No other inputs on the TV?
HDMI? Composite video? Component?

Edit: Just saw your edit..

Maybe the ATSC TV is only standard Def and the STB is outputting HD?
Sorry, im not a home theater guy..

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GreenPat said..

GavGav said..
So, I think the answer is, it will be fine and have over a 2:1 safety factor.

Thanks for your help guys.

If anyone needs any advice on:
Sending SDI-HD or HDBaseT video long distances
Stage lighting DMX control
Audio DSP configuring.
CRESTRON control systems
+ more.

(No home theater )

I'm your man!

Gav.

Any clues how to get a DVB-T tuner into a television with only an ATSC one? Or converting and ATSC signal to DVB-T? I've already put a set-top-box inline from the antenna and it's still sending an incompatible signal through the HDMI...

I'm surprised that a TV won't accept the signal from a DVB-T set top box. The ATSC bit is only the tuner, so it shouldn't matter I would think.

If you want to go another way, build a mythtv machine, use a DVB-T tuner in it, and connect it to the TV with VGA (or HDMI depending on your card). The only risk with this is that you end up recording everything and watching too much TV. Although, if you know what to buy, it can be a relatively cheap way to go, assuming you wanted a PVR in the first place.

Why did you bring an ATSC TV home? Did you know it was different?

Hey, that's a good way to get by the filters

I for one am surprised that our resident structural genius, Bono, wasn't the first one to answer this for you.

Conspiracy?

Yes, I think the USA, and I am guessing by your questions, Canada too, went their own way. I think everyone else went DVB-T. I guess the USA have to have everything just their way.

I only know the difference because of the reading I did on Mythtv.

If you did go Mythtv, there are HP DC7700 PCs that you can buy for around $100 on ebay that do the job nicely. Quiet, and enough grunt to play HD.
You would also need a DVB-T tuner for it, and you can use ASUS 3100 USB tuners or a Sony PlayTV if you want.

The annoying thing about Mythtv is you can spend ages working it out until you hit the right combination of things to use. For me, I have settled on an old distribution of Mythbuntu (10.04) that I make sure can't update itself (and break itself), and the thing just works.

I am surprised that the HDMI to set top box doesn't work. HDMI can pass data across the channel, but you wouldn't think a TV would object to viewing input from a set top box.

I know some TVs are generic enough where they had different boards for different regions, but I think even finding a guy that wants to repair a flat screen TV these days is a challenge, let alone getting them to swap boards.


For your TV, does it really need a transformer? A lot of things nowdays accept 100-240v just because its easier, and with switchmode powersupplies, its not terribly difficult to do.

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GreenPat said..
I'm pretty sure it does, the little info thing on the back says "110V-120V", not "110V-240V" like the typical dual voltage appliance.

That sucks .. Americans, is there nothing they can change to be 'better'?