So I'm going to bite the bullet and get a custom shaped board have found a good shaper.
the last few years I have been using kite specific surfboards and will probably continue to use them on and off.... But they are very stiff and for the price ( $1100-1200) I can probably buy two custom boards.... I have used my paddle boards a few times and they do feel a lot different (lighter/flexier etc...) but I am always tempted to jump them chop hop etc.... And they just don't stand up to hitting the choppy stuff .....Have broken two within a dozen session
So I need advise and a compromise...... (strapless so don't need extra strength for inserts or for massive torque)
I'm obviously thinking extra glass under feet...... Any advise as to weights etc.....
Is there anywhere else anyone would recommend adding strength..... Perhaps around fins or on the bottom to cope with constant riding/hitting chop
Probably going to go with carbon rails and stringer
Any advice appreciated breezers
Select to expand quoteharry potter said...
So I'm going to bite the bullet and get a custom shaped board have found a good shaper.
the last few years I have been using kite specific surfboards and will probably continue to use them on and off.... But they are very stiff and for the price ( $1100-1200) I can probably buy two custom boards.... I have used my paddle boards a few times and they do feel a lot different (lighter/flexier etc...) but I am always tempted to jump them chop hop etc.... And they just don't stand up to hitting the choppy stuff .....Have broken two within a dozen session
So I need advise and a compromise...... (strapless so don't need extra strength for inserts or for massive torque)
I'm obviously thinking extra glass under feet...... Any advise as to weights etc.....
Is there anywhere else anyone would recommend adding strength..... Perhaps around fins or on the bottom to cope with constant riding/hitting chop
Probably going to go with carbon rails and stringer
Any advice appreciated breezers
The crack on the heel side rail of my front foot is one of my most popular ones. I have done that to 2 boards and another one has a massive heal compression.
Fin box/plug being riped out/smashed in is another one of my favourite things to do.
Other than that the only other thing is snapped nose after the board got washed in nose first on a heavy beach break. Did that twice to the same board
My advice is : 1 six ounce on the bottom and 2 six ounce on the top, plus an extra patch perhaps carbon or 6 ounce for the front foot only.
This should be enough. It'll still be light enough to enjoy the flex and feel that you'll never get out of a Chinese pop out, yet have the easy of repair that you get from a polyester board.
Also expect some compression on the board from the front foot. Don't worry. It's cosmetic only. It won't affect the performance or life of the board.
Also. The benefit of a local shaper is you can ask them to strengthen any part of the boards that you think that might need it. So if you are worried about the fin box.. Mention it!
extra strength required here^^^^
aside from hitting the odd sandbar or sinking the board when turning, i have heard my fins 'cracking' in their base when turning hard on a wave.
go for glassed in fins: fin boxes are actually weaker imo as they are designed to pop out of their base. old FCS fins broke (too) easily saving the base. newer fins have stronger bases so the fin box will come out before the fin breaks. replacing a fin box is probably easier to do yourself though.
also agree with bjw don't worry too much about deck depressions you will probably go get another board after a while anyway. if it is too heavily glassed will lose its lightness and flex.
Overlap and wrap the glass right around the rails. Boards crease from the rails. Consider a deck rail channel for grabs, they add strenght. I exploded a FCS2 box yesterday on my paddle surfboard. Love the system, but they have a large metal pin running right through them, that makes them prone to cracking with any sideways pressure. Don't go overboard with regular glass. you'll end up with a pig. Look at the newer high tech high strength cloths, or epoxy. Careful about adding strips of cloth, they change the flex pattern and can add a break point. Talk to the glassers you are using. I prefer to protect the deck with full grip, and keep the weight down. All the best boards I've ever owned still get foot dents in them. 
. Just picked up my new puppy today. 5"7 18"x2(I think). 2x6oz whole board with third layer over heal and Carbon Kevlar stop over stingers both sides. Has done wonders for me. Not too heavy but enough weight to help stabilise your board when jumping in high winds. I don't like too lighter boards they get a bit skippy and can blow from your feet too easy on real windy days. Chop is a board killer. You'll break any board if you land heavy footed on choppy conditions. Your board as a rough guide also should sit in the water not on or under it. The boys from oke have done a great job!! Again.
My recommendation is 2 layers of 6 ounce glass top and bottom plus a layer of carbon on the deck. I jump a lot and it's holding up well. Board also has extra thick stringer.
Tips....
router out the foot standing area and insert 3mm divinycell with 2ox cloth under it, then 2 x 6oz carbon patches over the top.
Make your own stringer with 3mm divinycell and 1 x 2oz carbon each side of the d'cell
don't go to a surfboard manufacturer who has not done some vac bagged windsurf boards or SUP's...
if using FCS etc inserts, bond them to the deck
Front foot deck pad will also give you a bit of cushioning & the board a bit of a chance ! Remember if you make one area stronger you will make another area weaker !
Select to expand quoteAUS126 said..
My recommendation is 2 layers of 6 ounce glass top and bottom plus a layer of carbon on the deck. I jump a lot and it's holding up well. Board also has extra thick stringer.
There is a new invention just come out called a tail pad. Nice board though!
In my opinion the lighter the the glass job the better the board is.
Don't re-inforce fin boxes unless they are FCS, then don't even bother putting them in because they come out just as quick. Future Boxes are by far the best for kiting, when putting them in the board remember to sand them well and follow the instructions!
On every one of my kite boards I go for 2 x 4 ounce on the deck and a 4 ounce on the bottom. i have not snapped or creased one of my boards yet and a couple are 2 years old.
I Put a little bit of carbon/Quadaxle on the rail under my back foot.
Remember the more glass you put on the worse the board feels.
If your a keen jumper, make sure your landings are smooth. If you feel your coming in hot try to push the tail down to soften the landing or bail out.
Less is more.
I have never broken a board on a wave, only punting and walling big white wash.
Boards only break because of bad technique.
Learn how to land smooth and when to bail.
Less is more.
More is less.....to worry about (within reason). Each to their own. Good luck with your board bud.
I Have a Chunese pop out, Firewire, Maurice cole. I use these for diferent conditions.
Ive built a few surfboards. For cheap PU is the go. Boards snap at the rails so 6 plus 4 oz on the rails without effecting the flex. Divini-cell will protect the board from heel dents, 2mm with 1-2mm glas bonded, 6mm glass on top. router this in on the deck then leaving 800-825mm,on the rails Build the dininycell to add sytength, prevent heel dents, yet give fleX.
