First post....ever.
We began making yachts with 15 boys this past February. We've made some progress. We're incorporating a few ideas from what I've read on this forum. The frame design was provided to us by another fellow here in Salem, UT that built some yachts a few years back. We're making some progress. The boys are learning how to weld (I'm not teaching them, I'm learning with them from an expert). We're now pulling together some of the accessories: tires, rigging, seat belts and such and I have a few questions:
1) tires. I've read many posts and it seems that wheel barrow tires seem like the least costly option for tires. We're thinking of going with a 16" diameter tire (8" hub) with the standard bearings. I think the bearings will leave much to be desired, but we're building 15!... on the cheap, that's 45 tires! Any better ideas that may be less expensive?
2) pulleys. I had no ideas these would be so expensive. I've been looking at harken.com. Any better ideas for pulley sources? How much load is on these pulleys? (has anyone really done the calculations?)
3) seat belts. I've been to a local surplus store and amazon.com. There are a few options, but I'm hoping, once again, to get a cheaper solution. Any ideas?
4)Line. I'm planning on a polyester line for sail control. What is better 22mm or 40mm. I'd imagine the smaller the line, the harder it would be on your hands, but I still want an idea.
5) sails. We are sewing our sails..........
Thanks for ANY advice you could provide
First post....ever.
Welcome to the forum, please ask any questions there are a lot of people here to help.
We began making yachts with 15 boys this past February. We've made some progress. We're incorporating a few ideas from what I've read on this forum. The frame design was provided to us by another fellow here in Salem, UT that built some yachts a few years back. We're making some progress. The boys are learning how to weld (I'm not teaching them, I'm learning with them from an expert). We're now pulling together some of the accessories: tires, rigging, seat belts and such and I have a few questions:
In regard to the design, try and use a design that will meet the class specs of the yachts near your location. The reason is that it will maintain the value of your built yachts, you may at some stage be able to get students to sail in class races. It cost no more to build class spec yachts. And remember 'weight is only good for team rollers' keep them light as possible.
1) tires. I've read many posts and it seems that wheel barrow tires seem like the least costly option for tires. We're thinking of going with a 16" diameter tire (8" hub) with the standard bearings. I think the bearings will leave much to be desired, but we're building 15!... on the cheap, that's 45 tires! Any better ideas that may be less expensive?
Wheels and tyres are probably the main cost of any build but get ones to suit from the start and they will last for many years, OK you may need to change the bearing every now and then but the actual rim will last a long time (bike wheels DO NOT stand up the forces of land yachts as rear wheels, almost everyone has tried them and failed)
2) pulleys. I had no ideas these would be so expensive. I've been looking at harken.com. Any better ideas for pulley sources? How much load is on these pulleys? (has anyone really done the calculations?)
Harken are probably the top of the range of yacht fittings, if your building that number of yachts consider the option of making your own by machining up on a lathe the pulley roller from nylon or similar. See if you can find someone with a lathe in a home workshop. Failing that eBay of ten has pulley blocks listed.
3) seat belts. I've been to a local surplus store and amazon.com. There are a few options, but I'm hoping, once again, to get a cheaper solution. Any ideas?
Many people have used wide VELCRO as the seat belt buckle, just make sure there is a LOT of overlap on the 2 strap sections. No its not collision rated but it will hold a person in a yacht in an emergency, its fully adjustable and won't rust or corrode.
4)Line. I'm planning on a polyester line for sail control. What is better 22mm or 40mm. I'd imagine the smaller the line, the harder it would be on your hands, but I still want an idea.
Basically the thicker the easier on the hands but the thiner option works better through the pulleys..... its a balance v cost v comfort thing.
5) sails. We are sewing our sails.......... Thanks for ANY advice you could provide
Put the word out locally for old sailboard masts and sails (local paper / students etc) its amazing what you will find. There is a section on the seabreeze forum about sails and how to modify them to suit land yachts.
Good luck, ask lots of questions, post lots of pictures, hopefully it may inspire other groups of young people......
Utah boyz
Welcome to the forum I can think of no better project for young people to pick up some practical skills than building a fleet of landyachts and sailing them
Regarding pulley blocks It is not that hard to make your own
If you dont have access to a lathe the sheaves can be purchased on their own and the cheeks and spindles can be made to suit It is not necessary to have ball bearing sheaves plain plastic sheaves running on stainless steel spindles are fine
I have made spindles for blocks by putting short lengths of rod in the drill press and turning down the ends to suit the cheeks by mounting a piece of toolsteel in the drill vice leaving a little extra length to peen over
I have yet to make sheaves as they can be obtained quite cheaply
I dont know what the loads are but it is not that great on them I like to use 10mm soft braid for my sheet rope as it is easier on the hands and 50mm diameter sheaves work well but on smaller yachts I find 40mm diameter sheaves work OK
Wheelbarrow wheels and tyres are hard to beat for practicality and cost Just about all the info you need is available on this forum but if not there are those here that are only too happy to help
There is no such thing as a dumb question ! Congratulations and best of luck with your project Keep us posted
ps my daughter in law is a Utah native Salt lake city NZ resident now
Cheers Hiko
2) pulleys. I had no ideas these would be so expensive. I've been looking at harken.com. Any better ideas for pulley sources? How much load is on these pulleys? (has anyone really done the calculations?)
I may be able to help with some less expensive ball-bearing blocks.
I've recently put together a package for the Mini-Skeeter that shows the block I'd recommend:
performancesailingproducts.com/MiniSkeeterMainsheetBlocks.html
I would be happy to sell them to you at my cost to help out with the project.
You certainly don't need as many as the Mini-Skeeter.
Depending on how the mainsheet is rigged, you would probably only need two or three.
Cheers,
Geoff S.
we approached an industrial wheel supplier for better quality wheels with high quality bearings. with that quantity the should be cheaper than the almart rubbish
For seat belts just cut them out of old cars no cost at all
Good idea, I've tried a few junk yards with no luck yet. We'll keep trying
we approached an industrial wheel supplier for better quality wheels with high quality bearings. with that quantity the should be cheaper than the almart rubbish
I'm working with a industrial wheel supplier now, just haven't received an answer yet. We'll keep trying. If anyone knows of a supplier, i'd be interested in any names
Thanks!
Utahboyz
Here is a pic of the home made block setup on the rear of my two mini booms I am sure your students could make these
The top one is made with polyester resin and glass over a former and the bottom one is just PV C plastic sheet about 3 mm shaped with a
heat gun over the same former
Both work well ,the sheaves are supplied from a chandlery shop
The lower blocks are home made also Stainless steel side plates in this case
Something for you to consider The lower blocks are fastened with the tail of the sheet rope to the rear of the yacht
The end of the sheet has a reduced diameter (the core of the rope ) to enable this to be done. (Not in photo)
Hiko
Welcome to the forum!
There are a few seat belts on this page that are under $20.
www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?catalogId=10002&langId=-1&storeId=10001&krypto=UAqxY77HRc85mFRr2yZUVzwgp80bEH%2B9TOfIrLN60sviTB2XMLcf4TYeH1tPCR59U39TK5FwuIYywnDMS58fEGxHiOM9OAOKP3ZdvyZvgYyatFNjCCTfrPuuegNYrTsb9l2wU7pPPU3Em7nxIWGBKdQVuTdBXH7A%2FCgYFrKAKvj8fKp31KQN%2FP7C%2BOg3slW2&ddkey=https%3AKeywordSearchCmd
Not sure if this is the correct wheel/tire combo I have used in the past, but it's close. the wheel and tire work well, the bearing is junk...
www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200330053_200330053
And a possible source for blocks. I use these on my rig, and they aren't el cheapo, but compared to the harkens, etc, they are pretty reasonable. Had good luck with this company, too.
www.mauriprosailing.com/us/category/9-Ronstan-All-Purpose-Blocks.html
Have fun, and be safe
High quality, great selection and excellent customer service.
Blocks
nautos-usa.com/collections/blocks
Lines
www.nautos-usa.com/product-category/lines-ropes-cruising-lines-racing-ropes
This is one of my major sponsors but that has nothing to do with me mentioning the line of products.
They are the best option for the budget minded builder........
I'm also a big fan of Nautos.
Full disclosure: they also sponsor me (a little) and I'm a dealer...
Their web-store is pretty easy to navigate, their prices are great, the hardware is very good, and customer service is excellent.
I've been using their 75mm ratchet block on my DN iceboat (IMO one of the most demanding applications) for a few years and love it.
Based on cost, we are planning on using a wheelbarrow wheel for the rear wheels. I'm concerned the bearings are too cheap but I've had a hard time finding a replacement bearing of a higher quality. Are we better off simple replacing the bearings when they fail? Any ideas of where we can get a higher quality flanged bearing?
The cheap flanged bearings in wheelbarrow wheels have been used in the past I have not used them but others have reported them Ok
Plastic inserts are available that fit in place of the flanged bearings and accept precision bearings instead so you have a choice
The people who supply your wheels should be able to advise you
I used the cheap bearings for years, rough...yes, noisy....yes, not quite as fast ... yes, but change them when they need to be changed and IDEAL for a scout group with limited finances.
"USA Bearings and Belts" has a high quality and inexpensive wheelbarrow and mower replacement bearing that was a perfect replacement for my 3/4" axle agri-supply wheels. Mine are marked "PRF 122214-2RS RB TECH. The original bearings only lasted about 4 hours. No problems with these bearings after many hours.