Still working on a CL5 size yacht, and I'm going to have to make a decision on the pulleys soon.
Seems like there are 2 basic choices: multiple in-line single pulleys, or a single pulley with multiple rollers (sorry, i don't know the jargon...).
Does either setup have a benefit? Or is it just whatever i can get? Or whatever fits?
Would like to get it right the first time, since the pulleys are expensive here.....
Thanks, John
Hi John
Pulleys are expensive I have been in the habit of making my own in some cases
In yacht chandlers you can buy the plastic sheaves [the wheel bit] at reasonable prices and then its just a matter of making the side plates for them
This can work out very well on the boom as the side plates can be part of the strap that goes over the boom and so can be all one unit with multiple sheaves
Are you using a centre sheeting arrangement on your class5?
That is my preference on class5 If so you could use three sheaves on the boom
and if you can afford it a ratchet block as well
Down on the chassis you could have another three plus a tying off point for the end [a becket] and you would have a very good system
Better than mine as I dont have the ratchet block
Some food for thought for you John
cheers Hiko
I have always preferred single blocks where possible attached to the yacht using a prussic hitch rather than saddles riveted on.
On several water yachts I have owned or sailed I have found that double / triple block system tend to bind up a bit with the twisting of the sheet rope.
I prefer larger diameter pulleys the same reason that larger wheels work better (less friction), lots of pulleys now come with bearings which work great but adds lots of $$$. The final pulley is often good being ratchet type if the winds are strong or social sailing, but for serious racing you tend to lose some of the fine "feeling" with the ratchet type.
OK, good ideas.
My plan is to use the center sheeting arrangement. I'll keep you posted with the progress.
Thanks for the help!
On my minis I dont have a rachet as the delay in easing the sheet can be enough to capsize you, but on the 5 you'd be stuffed trying to race without a good rachet. try to get as big a diameter as you can afford. and just buy roller bearings, they are better and easier. dont forget that they will probably outlive the yacht. Im still using a ronstan roller block that I bought in 1985
my 5 is rather stable ,and Ive had a go at using a cam cleat as well , but havent yet managed to get the angles right. Im currently using an inline system with 40mm diam. bearing sheaves and 12mm rope , and a 60mm Harken(US) rachet . being inline and 6:1 it can be a brute to handle . 2 tripleblocks and a rachet would be a more efficient and easier to handle system
If you shop around you will find good quality stuff , thats not too pricey, you dont need to get carbon /teflon super pulleys, but try and avoid really industrial looking stuff. As suggestion google as many US pulley suppliers as you can find and ask for thier catalogues to be mailed out,
You will probably find that they have a cheap, middle and expensive range of pulleys, and the middle range will probably be a good compromise for you. I use Australian made Riley pulleys , which , though not quite as fine a finish as the very similar Ronstans,are very tough and well priced.
You would probably find a similar situation in the US, and UK
Most of it has been said!
I talked with the senior partner in one of the major name brands of roller blocks about 20 years ago, who told me that if he had to buy his own blocks he would not use them on a land yacht! His reasoning was that they made them for water yachts where there is spray for lubrication, and the "windblown dust and dirt" just eroded the balls too quickly. He reckoned they were good for business but his serious advice was to not use them. At the time I did not have to pay for them either, but when I did I went to plain blocks from RWO or Andersen. They seem to be a harder plastic, excellent pricing and live for a long time.
Here is a photo of my Class 5 sheet setup mostly home made
The lever at the top is for adjusting the position on the boom
and I have a similar one on the chassis for adjustment there
There is a rod on the lower set of sheaves to keep trouser legs out of the workings
I find the cam cleat works ok for me and releases quick enough
for the class 5
Apart from the sheaves it was all made from scrap even the cam cleat
cheers Hiko
lovely job there hiko
The problem Ive had with cam cleats is that the positions available on manufactured cleat suit the common deck angles for dinghies,cats and the like. they just didnt quite suit ourclose up, laying down positions
Yep thats why that one is different I made the angle to suit me
Push the sheet forward to lock it
One tug and its released
Actually dont use it that often
Only on the long hauls
OK, spent some $$$$$ today. The triple blocks are ronstans, and the ratchet is a harken. The single sheaves were on a peg, so i don't know the brand.
I'll send pictures of the finished setup.
Thanks again for all the input!
Hiko,
I forgot to ask what the sheaves spin on. Did you put bushings in there, or do they just rotate on the bolt?
how much in us $ are the blocks. just intrested because i am using the same blocks
on my yachts. ??? (but i am in ZN$).
great investment there. keep them clean!and out of the weather when not in use., If you sell the yacht , change them for cheapies and use the blocks for the next yacht
The triple blocks were $75, and the ratchet was $70. How much are they in NZ$?
Good call landyacht, if I sell/trade the yacht, I'll let the new owner find his own.....
I can supply three wheel block for around $80 (NZD) ($53 USD) all ronstan blocks.
ratchet block for around the same. let me know if anyone would like some ??
OUCH!!! I sent you a pm with some store info. If they ship to AU, you're in! If not, sorry for showing you the lower prices......