My aim is this build is to recycle as much as I can.I wanted to use the tubes I harvested from my bike but the gauge is only 1.5mm -too thin so I forced on section inside the slightly larger section
The next job was to cut a profile in this section which will fit around the bearing assembly.I bought a bimetal hole saw which was 2 mm larger than the headstock (which I have discovered is the correct description) but I think this won't make any difference once it is welded
Because I only have the section shown in the previous photo to use,I decided to use an off cut section as a mock up and this is the result
Select to expand quotetryhard said..
The next job was to cut a profile in this section which will fit around the bearing assembly.I bought a bimetal hole saw which was 2 mm larger than the headstock (which I have discovered is the correct description) but I think this won't make any difference once it is welded
Select to expand quotetryhard said..
Because I only have the section shown in the previous photo to use,I decided to use an off cut section as a mock up and this is the result
My next job is to cut down the 75x75 Hollow square section to make the sections attached to the spine.My available tools are my angle grinder with a metal cutting blade,a hacksaw or an oscillating saw. My preference is to use a power tool to avoid RSI.Which one should I use?
That was a question for the been there done that group.I would like your advice.While I'm at it you will have noticed the spoked wheel I had planned to use for the front wheel.In other discussions on this forum about wheels etc comments have been made that bicycle wheels are not up to the stresses likely to be inflicted through lateral forces.What advice do you have about that issue?
Select to expand quotetryhard said..
That was a question for the been there done that group.I would like your advice.While I'm at it you will have noticed the spoked wheel I had planned to use for the front wheel.In other discussions on this forum about wheels etc comments have been made that bicycle wheels are not up to the stresses likely to be inflicted through lateral forces.What advice do you have about that issue?
Use the angle grinder as you would have more control. In fact you could clamp the angle grinder to a bench/table and control your work even more. Bicycle wheels are ok for front wheels as the lateral forces you are referring to normally only occur on the rear wheels.
My next question is how do I flatten the mast tube to 50mm? Focussed violence again? And do I need to shape a lip around the top edge or is that not needed?Thanks Testpilot for your tip about the angle grinder.The H&S people would have a fit if they read this.I guess the angle grinder would then be like a table saw
To flatten the tube to a 50mm wide oval place a 50 x 50 (heavy wall) square section inside the round tube and put it in a large press. I take it down to an engineering workshop to get this done. Usually charge me a few beers.
A good vice will flatten your tube unless it is exceptionally thick Flaring the top of the tube is kinder to your mast than a
sharp edge If you cut a slot in a piece of metal bar and round the outer edge of the slot you can work around the lip and flare it well
Other distractions have delayed progress sadly. I have harvested some more bits off the mountain bike which I hope to use.The bits shown in the photo are what the bike seat sat on.My idea is to use the tube for the foot pedal assembly.The control shown will allow the inside tube to slide out so I can adjust the length of the foot pedals to suit vertically challenged pilots
Here are the materials for my next sub projects-the mast step and the axle assembly.
According to Clem's instructions I marked and cut the 75x75 box section on the diagonal from 25mm to 50mm
And ended up with the 2 halves which I tidied up a bit following my rather brutal surgery
And the next job is the cut a 45degree bit of the fat ends which are marked as shown.A job for after work tonight.Beats watching telly and day. I think my neighbour has a vise which I can use to flatten the mast step tube down to 50mm.I had thought of another way which was to stick a piece of wood inside the tube and run over it under my truck's front wheel but somehow I think this idea would not end well
Now I want to cut a hole in the apex to fit the spine,so I constructed this jig set up intending to cut the hole with a bimetal hole saw
But the hole cutter got totally munted.I will cut the hole with the pieces laying flat next time
The arrival of my rear wheels from the friendly and helpful Wheelco people cheered me up
Select to expand quotetryhard said..
The arrival of my rear wheels from the friendly and helpful Wheelco people cheered me up
That's a .....wheelie....positive note
The result was not quite right so scribing and shaping was required.I sanded a pencil down flat along its length and used that flat against the spine sec
tion to get the correct shape
A trip to the recycling centre and Bunnings secured this lot.The recycled stuff cost $13
The skis absent their metalware which I have stored away in case it might come in handy some day.My shed is somewhat full of that material I confess
