For some days I have pondering how to cut the mast step to fit the spine.I imagined some kind of jig affair which would involve my drill being set at the required angle with the hole saw.As I was trying to decide what to do (a not unpleasant pastime ), I found my way back into this forum and discovered somebody had already found a much better way.I came across a Tube Coping Calculator devised by MetalGeek which is sheer genius.The online program works by putting in the dimensions of the two pipes and a pattern emerges which can be traced onto the pipe.How fantastic is that! So I printed off my pattern and cut it out thus:
The clever metal geek program factored in the angle as well which I set at 75 degrees.The next step was to shape the flare at the top which I did employing the technique described in an earlier post.The tool is simply a piece of steel with a slot cut rounded off
Not the best photo but you get the idea.I dismantled the windsurfer boom and hope to use these parts in the seat assembly
You have done some really nice work.
I wonder about the 15 degree rake on the mast step though. It does seem a lot for a fixed step.
My "fixed" non adjustable mast steps have slowly decreased over different yachts, from 10 degrees down to 3 for larger than 6m2 sails.
Loving all the photos as you build. Well done.
Select to expand quoteChook2 said..
You have done some really nice work.
I wonder about the 15 degree rake on the mast step though. It does seem a lot for a fixed step.
My "fixed" non adjustable mast steps have slowly decreased over different yachts, from 10 degrees down to 3 for larger than 6m2 sails.
Loving all the photos as you build. Well done.
Thanks for the encouragement . The rake angle was what Clem the Clever had used in his version so I was simply following his lead.His design has an adjusting screw which allows for +or- 5 degrees.I have yet to start on the weldathon so there is time to adjust the rake if that is recommended by the wise and experienced heads on this forum.I welcome input.
By the way I have decided not to go with the front wheel and fork assembly shown in the earlier posts because the wheel is too big.That explains the appearance of the child's bike in photo of the ski purchase. Cutting and shaping the steering head was a doddle having done this once before.I guess after a few such builds the speed of construction increases.As a newbie I spend quite a bit of time trying to avoid mistakes and figuring out how to do certain things.
Better have another look at the plan tryhard. The angle of the mast step is 10 degrees not 15.
Thanks very much Clem.I couldn't tell from the sketch what the angle was supposed to be and I was going off your skimini rebuild post where the angle is given at 15 degrees.
Measure twice etc etc.So the marvellous metal geek program adjusted for my misunderstanding and produced another pattern
And marked out in white pencil.The unspoken understanding in my neighbourhood is no noisy machines on Sunday so the reshaping will have to be done after work next week .
Ah yes sorry I did build that one at 15 degrees, but once I put the sail up I realized I should have made it 10, so I drew the plan with 10 degrees but forgot to dimension that. It's not worth me changing mine now. I will have to put up with it.
I would recommend the 10 degrees rake. You will have the adjustment to rake the mast from 5 to 15.
Nice job so far buy the way. Where can we get a copy of that template drawing program?
Clem.
Select to expand quoteClemco said..
Ah yes sorry I did build that one at 15 degrees, but once I put the sail up I realized I should have made it 10, so I drew the plan with 10 degrees but forgot to dimension that. It's not worth me changing mine now. I will have to put up with it.
I would recommend the 10 degrees rake. You will have the adjustment to rake the mast from 5 to 15.
Nice job so far buy the way. Where can we get a copy of that template drawing program?
Clem.
I googled"Tube Coping Calculator" and got:-
www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmetalgeek.com%2Fstatic%2Fcope_custom.pcgi&ei=vUZxVKqRPIOD8QWTkIEI&usg=AFQjCNEoAf0RyWShsj12oonc0XdkvuifHw&bvm=bv.80185997,d.dGc
Ha the noise I make grinding on a Sunday is nothing to my neighbours and their rap music on their boom box 
not that often I am glad to say
I have discovered a new use for my earmuffs.The noise from possible neighbours complaints is eliminated.Here is the recut mast step
My kindly brother in law lent me a real v
ise (made of steel) and I carefully compressed the tube down to 50mm
Just make sure you file or die grind the internal seam of the pipe smooth before you weld it on.
It is an air or electric powered grinder.
A stone or carbide burr is mounted onto a 6mm shaft. Operates up to 20,000rpm.
I bought all the nuts and bolts from a specialty store (much much cheaper than the big orange/green ones).I also cut out the seat from some ply I had in my shed.If the world came to an end except my shed, mankind could start again with what I have in there.I made the seat narrower at one end as shown.The weldathon happens next week
How to bend ply around a fairly tight bend without breaking it? I built a celtic harp for daughter a few years ago and this required a very tight bend.Pat Sephton,the designer advised me to use a hot air gun to heat the ply.This works the same way as steaming only quicker.I put glue around the edge of the seat part and nailed the combing with bronze ring nails about 50 mm apart
The weldathon is nearly complete.A couple of things I have learned.Welders don't like welding galvanised steel.Apparently the zinc vaporises at a lower temperature than steel. On the upside -some of my less than accurate cutting doesn't matter once the weld is done. The next job is to grind /sand the welds and prepare the beastie for painting.The welder thinks I should sand blast and powdercoat. What do others think?
Best not to breath the toxic fumes from welding gal.
Test Sail your yacht before you spend the time and money sand blasting and powder coating. You may want to make changes or adjustments.
Ben.
