What makes/models of sewing machines are suited for sailmaking? I 'm thinking about low tech cheap ones
Chook and Landyacht have done this
IIRC, both started by commandeering the family domestic sewing machine [which can prove dangerous]
Chook ended up buying a machine direct from the manufacturer at a pretty good price.
details are here somewhere.
I will try and find them for you
I use the domestic machine for ripstop and nylon (Pfaff with normal and upper transport) and an industrial Durkopp (200€, second hand) with zigzag for the heavy duty work.
I have an old Viking Huskvarna, it really rugged and does the job well. What I have found just as important is to have it set in a large table attached to my workmate and to use silicone spray on thick sections or section with seamstick tape.
singer 20U, on its own table. make your sewing tabe as large as you can.
i have extra folding tables for when the sail stars to come together. also make the table so that you can clamp on the edges AND use home made awls to pin cloth to the table.also i have plastic rings cut from stormwater pipe to hold rolled sails tight
pretty much the thickest thread you can feed through the machine. i use a size 36 thread and 130 needles. most domstic needles only go to 110.
denim needles are usually a 90 or 95 and take a size 40 ? thread. size 20 would be way to thick. you dont need super strong UV resistant sailmakers thread , just polyester is fine . preferably black( more UV resistant)
find out what your machine can take.
when buying needles, look online. I buy a box of 100 needles for $15aust. yet the shop have them for $10 for 10
I buy thread in 2500m rolls, and use it
Many thanks.The kindly leathershop man I pass on my way work has given me a roll of size 40 bonded nylon with 3500 m on it and says I can use as much as I need before giving it back.He refuses to accept payment.This seems to be very strong thread.I took delivery of my Elna machine today.Made in 1954 which is slightly younger than me and wearing much better.$45 seems a bargain for this fine piece of machinery
Calling landyacht.I went onto eBay to check out needles and I am baffled by the size issue.How do I tell what size they are? I'm looking for ones to suit my 40 thread
the smaller the number the thicker the thread if i recall correctly. the higher the numberthe fatter the needle?
probaly a 120 or 130 needle. denim is a 90.
your machine may not have the internal clearance for a 130
The eye of the needle needs to be 40% bigger than the thread diameter to stop it over heating and cutting your thread.
To select appropriate sized machine needle for thread, put 30 cm of thread through the eye of the needle, holding one end of thread lower than the other. If the needle does not slide fairly easily (via gravity) down the length of thread then a larger sized needle is required.
For your 40 from the chart (in the web address below) It would be a "US" or "Singer" size of 14-16 or metric 90 or 100 you now just need the length to suit your machine. An old needle will have this length/style measurement stamped into it.
www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=nylon-thread-information
To test tension I do a test strip with the same thickness I'm about to stitch. (I have lots and just note the tension setting.)
You get to know after a while.
As the stitch runs I stop and change the tension setting and number the area according to the tension setting on my machine.
This is a test piece for my power kite repair. My Wife's machine to get triple stitch zigzag.
I then look on both sides to see what tension works the best. I am looking to see that the loops between the stitches are buried correctly. The front and back of the stitched material should look the same. If the bottom stitch is not buried like below, the machine tension is too light.
Very little tension change makes a huge difference. Also when you break a needle make sure the thread is completely rethreaded correctly and the offending broken needle tip has been removed.
Sometimes the thread will flick out of the tension discs, or off the light tension spring and you don't notice till you have destroyed another needle.
This is what stuffs up needles/ timing as it all gathers round the bobbin and stalls the hook and loop process.
Make sure you give the machine a blow out now and again, as it's amazing how much sand a windsurfer sail can contain.
Hope this helps. Chook
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/safety-bay/miscellaneous-goods/bernina-217n-industrial-sewing-machine/1072935368
Asking $1600 on Gumtree
Does Straight, Zig-Zag or 3 step Zig-Zag
Select to expand quoteBenBoulder said..
Asking $1600 on Gumtree 
before you lash out and buy it.........call chook.
pretty sure his brand new "marine grade" heavy duty sail-makers sewing machine, was not much over $400
That might have even included delivery!
stephen
Can't get them direct anymore as there is an Australian agent now "sn".
Having said that I have bought some parts from them and they were very reasonably priced and a fantastic quick service.
The US dollar is the killer so not sure bout the cost. They do sell on Ebay I'll see if I can find the link.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Strongarm-Industrial-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-WITH-POWERWHEEL-/191531601236?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2c982c4d54
I have really tried to kill my machine and sewn gear it shouldn't have, but it doesn't miss a beat.
Main reason was interested in this machine is the 3 step zig zag. Great for high stretch areas. Mainly used in kites and spinnakers. The Bernina 217 is a quality machine and used professionally in lofts around the world.
My machine is sailrite lz-1 bought last year from QLD sewing machines in Brisbane. My machine punches through some thick material. I have modified it with heavier flywheel. If it fits under the foot I'll have a go at sewing it. Sailrite Lz-1 is a walking foot zig zag(single step) does 5-6mm zig zag
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titch machine. I use v92 uv bonded polyester thread and 3/8 and 1/4 seam stick when making sails.
Ben
