Search for a Location
  Clear Recents
Metro
South West
Central West
North West
  Surf Cameras
  Safety Bay Camera
Metro
North
Mid North
Illawarra
South Coast
Metro
West Coast
East Coast
Brisbane
Far North
Central Coast
Sunshine Coast
Gold Coast
Hobart
West Coast
North Coast
East Coast
Recent
Western Australia
New South Wales
Victoria
South Australia
Queensland
Northern Territory
Tasmania
  My Favourites
  Reverse Arrows
General
Gps & Speed Sailing
Wave Sailing
Foiling
Gear Reviews
Lost & Found
Windsurfing WA
Windsurfing NSW
Windsurfing QLD
Windsurfing Victoria
Windsurfing SA
Windsurfing Tasmania
General
Gear Reviews
Foiling
Newbies / Tips & Tricks
Lost & Found
Western Australia
New South Wales
Queensland
Victoria
South Australia
Tasmania
General
Foiling
Board Talk & Reviews
Wing Foiling
All
Windsurfing
Kitesurfing
Surfing
Longboarding
Stand Up Paddle
Wing Foiling
Sailing
  Active Topics
  Subscribed Topics
  Rules & Guidelines
Login
Lost My Details!
Join! (Its Free)
  Search for a Location
  Clear Recents
Metro
South West
Central West
North West
Surf Cameras
Safety Bay Camera
Metro
North
Mid North
Illawarra
South Coast
Metro
West Coast
East Coast
Brisbane
Far North
Central Coast
Sunshine Coast
Gold Coast
Hobart
West Coast
North Coast
East Coast
Recent
Western Australia
New South Wales
Victoria
South Australia
Queensland
Northern Territory
Tasmania
  My Favourites
  Reverse Arrows
All
Windsurfing
Kitesurfing
Surfing
Longboarding
Stand Up Paddle
Wing Foiling
Sailing
Active Topics
Subscribed Topics
Forum Rules
Login
Lost My Details!
Join! (Its Free)

Forums > Sailing General

Adding a tackle system to basic traveller setup...

Reply
Created by fishmonkey > 9 months ago, 14 Apr 2016
fishmonkey
NSW, 494 posts
14 Apr 2016 8:16PM
Thumbs Up

i would like to add some blocks and cleats to our basic traveller setup.

the boat is an Adams 31 centre cockpit so the helm position is just forward of the aft hatch.

it would be great to be able to adjust the traveller from the helm.

any thoughts?




cisco
QLD, 12353 posts
14 Apr 2016 9:06PM
Thumbs Up


It is an easy do mate. You should be able to nut it out. Those stops have to come off first.

fishmonkey
NSW, 494 posts
14 Apr 2016 9:18PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
cisco said..

It is an easy do mate. You should be able to nut it out. Those stops have to come off first.


i was thinking the stops could stay on as end stops.

i'm wondering about the pros and cons of a continuous system, and how best to run everything to make it usable from the helm...

twodogs1969
NSW, 1000 posts
15 Apr 2016 5:01AM
Thumbs Up

I have the same track in my boat ill take a picture of the setup this afternoon when I get onboard.

slammin
QLD, 998 posts
15 Apr 2016 6:01AM
Thumbs Up

Keep the stops but remove the lugs. In place bolt in a pully. Which is probably what 2dogs will post later.

Continuous line would be slower to adjust when you tack. 2 line just set the stops.

cisco
QLD, 12353 posts
15 Apr 2016 8:59AM
Thumbs Up


If you can get hold of an older Ronstan Catalogue you will find many useful diagrams and images of various running rigging systems.

rumblefish
TAS, 824 posts
15 Apr 2016 10:21AM
Thumbs Up

Hey Fish,

Pics help!!

Firstly move the stops right to the outside

I would simply use Ronstan or Harken blocks with dyneema/spectra ties to attach to the existing saddle on the car, one each side.

Like these Harken 2147 (it won't let me post a pic of those so google them!)


Then I would drill and tap into the track just inside the stops with two saddles and then attach two more of the same block, using the centre of the block as a becket.
The reason for using a saddle and not a cheek block is you will never have hole spacing issues if replacing the block.

Then you will have 4:1 and run fwd off each end of the track fwd to two swiveling deadeyes and cleats like these

You will then be able to adjust from different angles.

I would use 8mm double braid as the rope, probably solid black as it lasts best in the sun.

Put stopper knots in each rope or tie to something so the car can't go far enough to smash blocks together.

All that should handle the load pretty well.

Car load (sideways) is 0.2 of mainsheet load, guessing your main size and with end boom sheeting your mainsheet load should never exceed 500kg, so max 100kg on your traveller, with 4:1 giving a max pull of 25kg which is easily manageable.

Bushdog
SA, 311 posts
15 Apr 2016 10:54AM
Thumbs Up

Hi Fishmonkey,
i have the setup you're after on my Adams 31 CC, but I won't be on the boat till mid next week. It's basically a couple of blocks bolted either side of the car, a couple each end of the track, and a couple of cleats. PM sent.

Concepcion
SA, 93 posts
15 Apr 2016 11:06AM
Thumbs Up







here is our setup. 10 years on, works well

twodogs1969
NSW, 1000 posts
15 Apr 2016 3:22PM
Thumbs Up







Mine is a different slide with a roller already on it. Fitting is a ronstan rf851

fishmonkey
NSW, 494 posts
16 Apr 2016 8:39AM
Thumbs Up

thanks for the suggestions and pics everyone. that gives me enough to go on to start playing the money versus utility game...


Select to expand quote
rumblefish said..

I would simply use Ronstan or Harken blocks with dyneema/spectra ties to attach to the existing saddle on the car, one each side.


this would mean that a lazy block can flop around on the track though, right?


Select to expand quote
rumblefish said..

Then I would drill and tap into the track just inside the stops with two saddles and then attach two more of the same block, using the centre of the block as a becket.
The reason for using a saddle and not a cheek block is you will never have hole spacing issues if replacing the block.


not quite following this bit. would the blocks be bolted to another pair of saddles, or ???


Select to expand quote
twodogs1969 said..

Mine is a different slide with a roller already on it. Fitting is a ronstan rf851


that is a neat solution. i don't think Ronstan make those fittings anymore though. is the cleat part swivelling or fixed?







twodogs1969
NSW, 1000 posts
16 Apr 2016 6:18PM
Thumbs Up

Fixed
you need to replace your stoppers with the whole fitting I am not sure if they are still making the same fitting but as long as the track size is right I am sure that you will find a new one. There is a second hand place in Mona Vale if you are in sydney. If not talk to your rigger it's amazing what they have lying around.
Your track would be the same as mine both made by mottle and same age

fishmonkey
NSW, 494 posts
16 Apr 2016 6:22PM
Thumbs Up

i am in Sydney. what's the place in Mona Vale?

twodogs1969
NSW, 1000 posts
16 Apr 2016 7:55PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
fishmonkey said...
i am in Sydney. what's the place in Mona Vale?


Boat Locker

Unit 16/ 2 Apollo St, Warriewood NSW 2102

ph: (02) 9979 8278

fishmonkey
NSW, 494 posts
16 Apr 2016 8:15PM
Thumbs Up

ta!

andy59
QLD, 1153 posts
18 Apr 2016 7:41AM
Thumbs Up

Hi Fishmonkey
I have a set up for you which I just removed off my boat I will post a pic for you this arvo

fishmonkey
NSW, 494 posts
18 Apr 2016 2:27PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
andy59 said..
Hi Fishmonkey
I have a set up for you which I just removed off my boat I will post a pic for you this arvo


hey, ta, sounds good!

andy59
QLD, 1153 posts
18 Apr 2016 7:16PM
Thumbs Up

Sorry I didn't get down to the boat today will post the pics tomorrow

fishmonkey
NSW, 494 posts
18 Apr 2016 7:35PM
Thumbs Up

no probs!

EC31
NSW, 490 posts
18 Apr 2016 9:31PM
Thumbs Up


A couple of photos of my setup. Just using some old Ronstan blocks on the track, with a block each end to provide the grunt and then as a turning block to the cleat. Yours will be slightly different as it is deck mounted, but the same principle. I still use the stops as you can see from the second photo.
Also have a similar setup on my sailing dinghy and we use small springs (whitworths have them) over the top of the twisted shackle to stop the blocks flopping around. Not normally a problem on the keel boat, just cleat both ends before tacking, then release leeward after tack is finished.





rumblefish
TAS, 824 posts
19 Apr 2016 9:41AM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
fishmonkey said..
thanks for the suggestions and pics everyone. that gives me enough to go on to start playing the money versus utility game...



rumblefish said..

I would simply use Ronstan or Harken blocks with dyneema/spectra ties to attach to the existing saddle on the car, one each side.



this would mean that a lazy block can flop around on the track though, right?



rumblefish said..

Then I would drill and tap into the track just inside the stops with two saddles and then attach two more of the same block, using the centre of the block as a becket.
The reason for using a saddle and not a cheek block is you will never have hole spacing issues if replacing the block.



not quite following this bit. would the blocks be bolted to another pair of saddles, or ???



twodogs1969 said..

Mine is a different slide with a roller already on it. Fitting is a ronstan rf851



that is a neat solution. i don't think Ronstan make those fittings anymore though. is the cleat part swivelling or fixed?









Question 1 - If you use spectra to lash and tighten then it can't flop around, actually better than a shackle.

Questions 2 - This if for the outside blocks. Attach them to the track using saddles that are bolted to holes you would drill and tap. Attach blocks to saddles with spectra again.

ChrisJ1978
NSW, 57 posts
21 Apr 2016 2:05PM
Thumbs Up

The Ronstan website has lots of good diagrams for things like adjustable backstays and outhauls - there may be traveller setups too ??

andy59
QLD, 1153 posts
21 Apr 2016 4:02PM
Thumbs Up

Sorry to take so long to reply
Here's a pic of the traveller I have the end blocks too



andy59
QLD, 1153 posts
27 Apr 2016 2:35PM
Thumbs Up



Here's a pic of the endblocks




Subscribe
Reply

Forums > Sailing General


"Adding a tackle system to basic traveller setup..." started by fishmonkey