I was after some good advice Please . My mooring chain is over a cleat on the bow . Id really like to utilize a rope or some thing to take the strain of the wave movement between the bow and the chain as the waves rise and fall . Sorry I cant thing of its correct name right now been been on the mooring today in a Northerly its not to nice trying to do some work on the boat In a northerly wind
HG02,
What you need is a mooring snubber.
You will need about 3 m plus of 16 mm [min] 3 strand nylon anchor line. Bigger boat more length and diameter.
That size is what I use on my Top Hat of 3,000kg.
On one end splice a Stainless steel chain grab hook [whitworths page 99, item 43887 etc]
Anchor and securely tie off your chain in your normal manner.
Secure the bitter end of your anchor snubber and then pull in some chain, of more length than your snubber.
Attach the chain hook and let the snubber out [over the bow cleat] drape the anchor over all that and secure at the cleat so it will not jump out.
You should end up with the chain having a small loop after the bow cleat to the chain grab hook.
Just one caution, if you spend some days on a snubber with a big blow you will have to replace the snubber rope as it will have lost all its elasticity.
Enjoy
Not sure if NSW got the gist of what you want. If it's for your permanent mooring, you need to get something a little more substantial than a snubber.....
A standard permanent mooring set up would be a bit like this.
Attached to your block, you should have 35mm+ stud link ground chain, with about a 20mm swivel, then enough mild steel 16mm chain to reach the surface, followed by 24mm silver rope protected over the bow roller by heavy duty anti-chaff plastic sleeve, then your bouy and hook up line.
Based on your description, you're missing the 24mm silver rope and sleeve.
Not sure what's there actually it was updated last year it has a new chain but , I am not happy with whats there. I will check it out next weekend if the weather is favorable
With the wave action it bounces the boat against the chain ,its not right As soon as I get my motor wired up I am thinking of moving it to Brighton to remove the masts and start re rigging . So I think Ill find a marina for a couple of months so I can get some work done on the boat while the masts are off the boat . Its to bloody hard on a swing mooring to may decent head way restoring and renovating during the winter months . Rowing out there with bits and pieces balancing and trying not to loose any thing and much the same going back to the beach.
If I can get it in close by it would save a lot of running down the coast to work on the boat I loose to many hours just getting there and returning
You are right Michael,
Miss read that as normal ANCHOR chain.
But you will still need the snubber HG02 when you eventually start to move around.
Don't use silver rope. Seagreen is what the local contractors use. Its basically the same as what Cisco mentioned but 3 strand instead of plait. Floats, UV resistant but because you need a reasonable shock resistance in your mooring ends up thicker than what you would use in Nylon. This is fairly important in rivers and estuaries where the current can be strong. I will be switching to nylon when I get around to it. For abrasion where the riser comes over the bow roller use half a metre of that flat polyprop blue fire hose wrapped around the riser and fixed with cable ties. Do not use clear or reinforced plastic hose! This hardens in sunlight and the ends become sharp enough to cut through risers. This has sent several boats on to the beach here.
There are web sites that have trials that the US coast guard did on the best mooring practices where they compared the best materials for moorings. Its worth chasing up and having a look. Basically the safest moorings they recommend are chain, nylon risers and poly prop fire hose anti chaff.
Silver rope and plastic anti chaff.
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Mine.
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Cisco-I am on a fore'n'aft mooring situation as well.
One thing you may consider is to have three mooring apparatus. That is one for up forward and two aft(separated or split up like a triangle).
The problem with a single line aft, is that they will foul your rudder and possibly prop during slack tides.
During windy conditions or in tight manoeuvring situations, you get a third option to grab onto as well when picking up.
My mooring blocks are a metre square by half metre high for our 33(4.8t).
During a heavy surge a few years back, one of the blocks still moved and was well embedded on the bottom.
If you can get hold of some heavy Longwall or studlink for the bottom chain, will assist you greatly.
I have a decent supply of this, should you feel like a drive!
C.R.
hi guys i am not an expert by any means but have recently put a mooring in for my jarkan 6.5 tons
i used a concrete block 1200x1200x 300mm filled it with as much cast iron scraps i could fit in had a stainless eye cast into the top then added a aprox 900mm diametre loco train wheel to the top.
the depth is 8m at high tide so i put 6m of 38mm stud link chain on the block and wheel then 4 metres of 25mm chain this will enable me to pull the end of the chain clear of the water for maintenance then spliced 12m of that green 3 strand rope to the chain with a metal thimble in the splice both ends the other end going up to a swivel below the inflatable buoy a shackle here moused with cable ties to a spliced 3 strand rope with thimble and connect this to a cleat on the bow not the anchor winch as these are not designed to hook mooring lines to
she holds well but this winter will test it out iam sure.
i think i have around 900 kg of weight in the bottom tackle
cisco it reads in the second link you have given us quote shortened scope means a more effective anchor is required. Therefore, a permanent mooring anchor must be significantly heavier than your everyday use anchor. Mooring scope from anchor to end of pennant should be at minimum 3 times the depth of water at highest tides.
i think you need to beef it up significantly also what is the bottom like as some bottoms will not cover your tackle it will just sit there and if it is not big enough when the boat pulls and fetches on it it moves my ten cents worth
Few months ago an nice composite 31 footer came off a mooring here. I pulled the mooring back up onto the foredeck and laid the bottom end out to take a photo. The owner was away in Tasmania at the time and the boat was for sale so I could not post photos then. Mate and I put out the anchor into deep water to float her off. I'm always interested on what fails with moorings. In this case it was the bottom chain where the links simply wore away do to abrasion with sand. Mooring is in a particularly strong current area. Note the electrolysis on the shackle where the SS mousing has reacted against the mild steel. There is some electrolysis on some links and the swivel pin. The bottom shackle is shiny were it rubs over the sand bottom at every tide change, the swivel must have been clear.
Bottom chain generally lasts about 3 years where this mooring was. Shackles and swivels moused with SS about 12 months. The problems I see generally are from a miss match in quality of materials. I would suggest top quality chain and use Chinese swivels and shackles [cable tie mousing] and change the swivel and shackles annually. This way the chain which is fairly expensive should have a long life at the expense of the cheap hardware.
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Have a read of this, skip over the parts about saving the sea grasses but do digest that that there are other types of mooring available, albeit at a higher cost than the comonly used block and chain. In some areas where the greenies have sway you may only be allowed to put in an environmentally friendly mooring in which case it will be, grin and bear it. In reading some of the results that have been obtained with these moorings it seem a rather small price to pay, knowing that your boat is secure and not likely to come to grief due to inadquate holding power.
I know there will be people out there that say that these can't work because we've always used the block and chain method around here, but I feel that with careful selection of the right mooring type all boats could be safe and secure in all bottom types. An added benefit seems to be that a few of these are owner serviceable thereby maybe saving a few dollars ...... providing the owner actually gets out there and does the service using approved parts.
www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/478539/outerbridge-trials-of-environmentally-friendly-moorings.pdf
no i dont think 7 times your anchor weight is any where near sufficient especially when you make your mooring to boat angle steeper i would not trust anything less than 550 kg
After I posted the message above this morning I checked the local moorings to see how we fared after last nights Westerly gale. The 60ft+ concrete stay sail/wishbone schooner, my immediate neighbour was up on the beach. We have only 3 yachts here on full chain moorings and now they have all been up on the beach [one fibreglass, two concrete] Not sure yet what failed but I check the chain on all three regularly as I pass by, everyone else here does too!
My mate was with me as we surveyed the scene, he has lusted after this boat for awhile and reckoned now was the time to make an offer!
I service my own mooring and have found that the cheaper [read Chinese] shackles NEED to be replaced every YEAR.
Lots of good info in this thread.
By the looks of the articles posted there will be some new mooring regulations coming out soon.